In January this year I went to the beautiful island of Tenerife and then had to come back to freezing temperatures here in old blighty (UK). I wanted to keep that warm holiday feeling so I designed the Summer Flip Flop cushion.
This Summer Cushion crochet pattern uses overlay mosaic crochet to create a bold, retro pattern ideal for your patio or in your beach hut.
What is overlay mosaic crochet?
Overlay mosaic crochet is worked in the back loops only and in one direction with the right-side facing you; tying off the yarn after each row.
You would alternate between two colours with double (US – single) crochet stitches worked into the back loops and using treble (US – double) crochet stitches worked down into the front loops of the row below of the same colour to form the pattern.
You are working the treble crochet stitches over the top (in front) of the single crochet stitches hence ‘overlay’.
The chart and instructions on how to read the chart, including the special symbols, can be found below. However, the chart, image tutorials and the full written instructions are included in the ad-free pdf version of the pattern which you can purchase using the links below:-
The main image above has a white background and has stripes of red, orange and yellow coloured yarns but you can use any combination of contrasting colours to create this design
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What you’ll need:
Materials
6mm Hook
Aran Yarn:
Colour A(background colour) 401m / 537yds
Colour B 307m / 336yds
Tapestry hook for weaving in ends
Scissors
Cushion insert 45cm x 45cm (18in x 18in)
What I used
A huge thank you to WeCrochet* who sponsored this event by providing the yarn free of charge!
I used Heatherly Worsted* yarn in Snowflake, Lemonade, Ice Pop and Juice Box
To achieve the same look as mine you’ll need:
401m / 537yds of Snowflake (white);
109m / 119yds of Juice Box (pink);
113m / 124yds of Ice Pop (orange);
and 85m / 93yds of Lemonade (yellow)
Gauge
Double Crochet (US = Single Crochet) 17 stitches and 15 rows = 10cm/4in
Measurements
Final cushion cover 45cm x 45cm (18in x 18in)
Some important tips to remember when following a mosaic crochet chart are:
- Right-handed crocheters should work the chart from right to left with an BBst in the first stitch and an EBst in the last stitch.
- Left-handed crocheters should work the chart from left to right with a BBst in the first stitch and an EBst in the last stitch.
- It’s a good idea to print the chart and highlight or cross off the rows as they are completed.
How to read the chart
- Read the chart from the bottom up.
- Numbers running along the bottom and top of the chart are the stitch count. Numbers running up the sides are the row count.
- Each row is worked in a single colour.
- Change the colour of yarn with every row.
- The first and last squares of each row will indicate which colour to use in that row.
- You should follow the symbols in the squares. The colours in the middle of the chart are to be used as a guide only and should represent how your piece will look once that row has been completed. Do not change colours mid-row (unless the pattern calls for it)
Summer Flip Flop Cushion Chart
UK Terms – The Basics
The pattern is worked on the right side only, from right to left, using double crochet (DC) into the back loop of the top row and a Mosaic Treble Crochet (MTR) into the front loop of the row below of the same colour.
The “X” in the chart indicates where to place an MTR. All blank squares should be worked as a DC. There are some special stitches in this chart, full instructions on how to work each special stitch is given below.
The background colour A is represented in white in the chart, colour B, is represented in grey.
Want a cushion to match my sample?
In order for you to achieve the same look as the main example I have used the abbreviations below to indicate on the chart where the colour changes happen throughout the design.
R = Red O = Orange Y = Yellow
Special Stitches & Abbreviations:
CH: Chain.
SS: Slip stitch.
DC: Double Crochet. In the Chart these are represented by a blank square (of any color).
MTR: Mosaic Treble Crochet
Bst: Border Stitch – there are two types of border stitch, the Beginner Border Stitch and the Ending Border stitch, both are outlined below. I’ve used Bst on the chart to make it easier for both left- and right-handed crocheters to follow but please select the appropriate instructions depending upon whether you are starting a new row or ending the row.
BBst: Beginner Border Stitch – worked in the first stitch of each row. Leaving a 5cm tail for weaving in, insert hook through both loops of the first stitch, yarn over, pull up a loop, using the tail end of the yarn, yarn over and draw through the loop, this will trap the tail into this first stitch to secure it. Chain 1, double crochet into the same stitch working through both loops.
EBst: Ending Border Stitch – worked through both loops of the last stitch in each row. Double crochet (worked through both loops) Chain 1, cut yarn leaving 5cm for weaving in, draw tail through the loop and tighten.
Hidden Stitches
After working the (MTR2tog DC) or the (DC MTR2tog) stitches, the front loop of the row below will be hidden beneath the MTR2tog as shown in the photo below.
When you see an instruction to mosaic treble crochet and the stitch below includes a MTR2tog, you will need to find the front loop by pulling aside the MTR2tog. The hidden front loop will always be below the DC.
To Start
The first row will be a solid DC row in colour A, and the second row will be in colour B.
For row 1 you will need to chain 75, DC in 2nd chain from the hook, DC in every stitch across, CH1, cut yarn and pull through to tighten. (74)
For the rest of the chart rows all DCs will be worked in the back loop and the MTR stitches will be worked in the front loop of the row below of the same colour.
At the end of row 67 you have completed one side of the cushion cover, make a second panel.
Jump to assembly instructions.
US Terms – The Basics
The pattern is worked on the right side only, from right to left, using single crochet (SC) into the back loop of the top row and a Mosaic Double Crochet (MDC) into the front loop of the row below of the same colour.
The “X” in the chart indicates where to place an MDC. All blank squares should be worked as a SC. There are some special stitches in this chart, full instructions on how to work each special stitch is given below.
The background colour A is represented in white in the chart, colour B, is represented in grey.
Want a cushion to match my sample?
In order for you to achieve the same look as the main example I have used the abbreviations below to indicate on the chart where the colour changes happen throughout the design.
R = Red O = Orange Y = Yellow
Special Stitches & Abbreviations:
CH: Chain.
SS: Slip stitch.
SC: Single Crochet. In the Chart these are represented by a blank square (of any color).
MDC: Mosaic Double Crochet
Bst: Border Stitch – there are two types of border stitch, the Beginner Border Stitch and the Ending Border stitch, both are outlined below. I’ve used Bst on the chart to make it easier for both left- and right-handed crocheters to follow but please select the appropriate instructions depending upon whether you are starting a new row or ending the row.
BBst: Beginner Border Stitch – worked in the first stitch of each row. Leaving a 5cm tail for weaving in, insert hook through both loops of the first stitch, yarn over, pull up a loop, using the tail end of the yarn, yarn over and draw through the loop, this will trap the tail into this first stitch to secure it. Chain 1, Single Crochet into the same stitch working through both loops.
EBst: Ending Border Stitch – worked through both loops of the last stitch in each row. Single crochet (worked through both loops) Chain 1, cut yarn leaving 5cm for weaving in, draw tail through the loop and tighten.
Hidden Stitches
After working the (MDC2tog SC) or the (SC MDC2tog) stitches, the front loop of the row below will be hidden beneath the MDC2tog as shown in the photo below.
When you see an instruction to mosaic double crochet and the stitch below includes a MDC2tog, you will need to find the front loop by pulling aside the MDC2tog. The hidden front loop will always be below the SC.
To Start
The first row will be a solid SC row in colour A, and the second row will be in colour B.
For row 1 you will need to chain 75, SC in 2nd chain from the hook, SC in every stitch across, CH1, cut yarn and pull through to tighten. (74)
For the rest of the chart rows all SCs will be worked in the back loop and the MDC stitches will be worked in the front loop of the row below of the same colour.
At the end of row 67 you have completed one side of the cushion cover, make a second panel.
Jump to the assmebly instructions.
Assembly
If you wish you can weave in all ends to make the inside tidier but if you’re short of time you can leave them as they are as they will be inside the cushion cover.
With right sides facing, slip stitch through both pieces, along three sides (right, top and left) to join.
When working along the side edges with the tails, make sure your place the slip stitches one stitch in from the edge (see image below). Make sure your hook goes through both pieces and that the row colors match.
This will trap the border stitches inside the cushion and will give you a neater edge.
Cut yarn leaving a long tail (approx 60cm/24in) for sewing the bottom edge. Turn the cover right side out, insert your cushion and using a tapestry needle, whip stitch across to close.
Finish off and weave in ends and you’re done!
Don’t forget to share your makes, tag me @gorgeouscrafts or use #summerflipflopcushion in your posts so I can see and share what you’ve made.
Happy crocheting!
Copyright of Gorgeous Crafts 2023. This pattern is for unlimited personal use. Do not reproduce or sell the pattern as your own. The pattern may not be copied in any way (print or digitally), in part or in full. You may sell items that are made from this pattern but please credit gorgeouscrafts.co.uk and add a link back to this post where possible. Shop owners, if you wish to make a kit with yarn using this pattern, please request permission and copyright details from the designer before offering any kits for sale.