Valentine’s Day has always felt like the perfect time to share a little handmade happiness, and these Valentine’s Day Treat Bags are such a fun way to do exactly that. If you like crocheting thoughtful gifts with your yarn, this free Valentine’s crochet pattern is a lovely project that lets you add a truly personal touch to your celebrations.
These crochet treat bags are perfect for filling with chocolates, sweets, small toys or handwritten love notes, making them ideal for classroom Valentine gifts, party favours, or simple handmade surprises for family and friends. They’re also a fantastic way to use up scrap yarn so you can mix and match colours to create unique Valentine’s gift bags.
A Quick, Valentine Crochet Make
This easy crochet treat bag pattern is designed with confident beginners in mind and works up quickly. Therefore making it perfect if you’re looking for a quick Valentine’s Day crochet pattern or a last-minute handmade gift idea.
Whether you’re making just one special bag or a whole collection of Valentine treat bags, this pattern is simple, fun and full of handmade charm.
The pattern uses a simple centre-out mosaic crochet technique that creates a super cute heart design with very little effort.
Because each square uses only a small amount of yarn it’s a perfect stash-busting project and a great introduction to centre-out mosaic crochet.
Keep reading to find the free crochet pattern, along with helpful tips and step-by-step guidance to help you create your own Valentine’s day crochet treat bags with ease.
Learn How To Work Centre-Out Mosaic Crochet
If you’re new to centre-out mosaic crochet and want a little extra support, my Cracking the Centre-Out Code online course is the perfect place to start. Inside, I walk you, step by step, through exactly how to read a chart, where to place your stitches and how the technique works from the very first round.
You’ll also get a bonus practice pattern, which you can use to build confidence before you start the Valentine’s Day Treat Bag.
If you’d like a clear, beginner-friendly introduction to centre-out mosaic squares, you’ll find the course available in my shop here.
Why you’ll love this pattern:
- Fast fun project – Ideal for last-minute Valentine’s Day gifts for friends, kids and loved ones
- Stash-busting – Use small amounts of yarn you already have
- Beginner-friendly mosaic crochet – works just like a granny square
- Reusable gift bag – A gift in itself that can be used again and again
Looking for more free crochet patterns?
Here are some other patterns you might like:
Get The PDF Pattern Here
If you prefer to read from a chart or want an ad-free version to print out, you can grab a copy from either my Etsy or Ravelry shops. Please click on the buttons below:
About The Centre-Out Mosaic Crochet Technique
The Valentine’s Day Treat Bag crochet pattern uses the Centre-Out Overlay Mosaic crochet technique which much simpler than you think! It’s as easy as making a granny square!
Anything you can make with granny squares, you can make with a centre-out mosaic square – from blankets and cushions to ornaments and accessories.
Overlay mosaic crochet uses two stitches:
- Back loop only double crochet (US terms = back loop only single crochet)
- Front loop only treble crochet (US terms = front loop only double crochet).
If you can work double crochets (US terms = single crochets) and treble crochets (US terms = double crochets) then you’re ready to go!
Although I often label my mosaic crochet patterns as ‘intermediate’, they’re absolutely suitable for confident beginners too. If you can work basic crochet stitches, you can do mosaic crochet – it really is that easy.
Once your squares are ready simply add a few extra rows to one end; seam them together and add the i-cord draw-string. Before you know it you’ll have a treat bag that looks intricate but that works up surprisingly quickly.
You’ll find the full written instructions are below in both UK and US crochet terms, along with a few photo tutorials to guide you through the more advanced parts.
Skill Level
The Valentine’s Day treat bag is a fun make that’s perfect for confident beginners and mosaic crochet lovers alike.
So grab your yarn, hook and turn on your favourite playlist, and let’s get started on your next favourite Valentine gift bag!
Disclosure: Some of the links below are affiliate links (*), meaning, at no additional cost to you, I will earn a small commission if you click through and make a purchase. As an Amazon Associate and an Awin Affiliate I earn from qualifying purchases.
Mosaic Crochet Valentine’s Day Treat Bag Pattern
Supplies
Click the links below to see exactly which materials I used!
2.5 mm hook
Scissors
Stitch Markers (I also have a selection from Cats Whiskers Cro Store and Joy to the Wool Co.)
Tapestry Needle
Scheepjes Catona (100% Cotton – 4 Ply / #2 / Sport; 125 m / 137 yards per 50g)
- 1 skein of 115 Hot Red (CC) – 35 m/ 38 yds
Drops Safran (100% Cotton – 4 Ply / #2 / Sport; 160 m / 175 yards per 50g)
- 1 skein of 17 White (MC) – 65 m/71 yds
- 1 skein of 18 Off White (CC) – 57 m/62 yds
- 1 skein of 70 Sweet Orchid (MC) – 60 m/66 yds
I recommend any two contrasting solid colours. But you can swap one for a multi-coloured, variegated yarn.
Gauge
Mosaic crochet square = 11.5 x 11.5 cm (4.5 x 4.5 in) when worked across the pattern.
(Gauge is not essential).
Unblocked Sizing
15.5 cm/6.25 in high x 12.5 cm / 5 in wide when laid flat.
Pattern Notes
How to Read The Pattern
When in the instructions you have a number followed by a stitch, eg 14 dc, this means you have to work 1dc into each of the next 14 sts.
Instructions in brackets (….) or square brackets […] are worked as many times as indicated.
Centre-out Mosaic Crochet Pattern Notes
- You can either follow the chart or written instructions.
- Overlay mosaic crochet is created by working with two contrasting colours in alternating rounds. All rounds are worked on the right side of the project.
- Unless otherwise indicated, ALL double crochet (US = single crochet) stitches are worked into the back loops of the stitch while treble crochet (US = double crochet) stitches are worked into the front loops of stitches from 2 rounds below. The treble crochet stitches are covering up the double crochet stitches from the previous round.
- Start each round with a 1 ch (does not count as a st).
- End each round with an invisible join. To avoid weaving in all those ends, do not cut the yarn when you finish a round. Simply change colours when working the invisible join, use the new colour to work the 1 ch, then continue with the next round.
- From round 3 carry the previous colour for one st, then leave to pick it back up as needed.
Get VIP Access to the FULL Valentine’s Day Treat Bag Crochet Pattern
Opt for the VIP access by purchasing the Ad-free pdf version from either my Etsy or Ravelry stores. Includes:
- Full written instructions for the squares and treat bag
- Right- and Left-handed charts
- photo tutorials
Abbreviations – UK Terms
*: Repeat instructions following a single * (asterisk) as directed
**: Repeat instructions between **’s as many times as noted after
[ ], { }: Repeat instruction between [ ]’s or { }’s as many times as noted after
BLO: Back Loop Only
CC: Contrasting Colour
ch: Chain
dc: Double Crochet
dcC: Double Crochet Corner
FLO: Front Loop Only
MR: Magic Ring
MC: Main Colour
P: Picot Stitch
r: Row
rep: Repeat
rnd: Round
RS: Right Side
sk: Skip
sl st: Slip Stitch
st(s): Stitch(es)
tog: Together
tr: Treble Crochet
WS: Wrong Side
yo: Yarn Over Hook
Special Stitches – UK Terms
C – Corner stitches: In rnd 2 work (1 dc, 2 ch, 1 dc) into the BLO of a stitch to create a corner (see photo tutorial below). From rnd 3 onwards work 1 dc into the BLO of the first corner chain, 2 ch, 1 dc into the BLO of the second corner chain (see photo tutorial below).
Carrying the yarn: From rnd 3 onwards after completing your invisible join from the previous rnd, you will work the first stitch into the BLO of the first corner chain. In order to hide the join on the back of your work you will carry the yarn from the previous round for one stitch (the pdf pattern includes a photo tutorial)
MR: There are two ways to work a Magic Ring; two photo tutorials can be found in the pdf pattern. Please also see the Video Tutorial.
tr2d: A Treble crochet stitch worked into the front loops of the stitch of the same colour 2 rounds down. The tr2d stitch is always worked in front of the double crochet stitches in the round below. Leave dc st of the opposite colour behind each tr2d unworked. In the Chart this is represented by an X. Yo, insert hook into flo of st 2 rounds down, yo, pull up a loop, [yo, draw through 2 loops on hook] twice. Leave st behind tr2d unworked.
Invisible join: At the end of each round, remove hook from loop, insert hook under both loops of beg st from back to front, place loop back on hook and pull through st. Using new colour, yo and 1 ch. Tighten all loops, drop previous colour to wrong side. You can find a tutorial here.
Picot stitch: Chain 3, slst into the 3rd chain from the hook to complete the picot.
Centre-out Mosaic Crochet Corner Stitch – Round 2
1) Insert hook into the back loop of the first st. 2) Lay the working yarn of the previous colour over the top of the back loop and hold in place. 3) Yo, and pull through a loop. 4) Yo and pull through both loops on your hook to complete the dc. 5) Chain 2. 6) Insert your hook back under the back loop of the same st and work your second double crochet. That’s your corner complete. (1 dc, 2 ch, 1 dc) into the back loop of a st.
Centre-out Mosaic Crochet Corner Stitch – Round 3
1) In the image above the first st is marked with a st marker. 2) Skip the first st and insert your hook into the BLO of the first ch from the corner sts of the round below. Lay the working yarn of the previous colour over the top of your work and hold in place. 3) Work a dc. 4) Chain 2.
5) Insert your hook into the BLO of the second ch from the corner sts of the round below. 6) Work a second dc to complete the corner sts. 7) Complete the rest of the round. 8) When you have one st left, you will work the final st into the first st from the previous round.
Free Written Pattern – UK terms
Create the centre-out squares
From rnd 3, carry the previous colour for one st (see the round 3 corner st tutorial above).
Rnd 0: Using MC; create a MR, 1 ch (does not count as a st, here or throughout), 8 dc into the MR, invisible join. 8 sts
Rnd 1: Using CC; [1 dcC, 1 dc] 4 times, invisible join. 20 sts
Rnd 2: Using MC and starting in the first 1-ch of the dcC of the previous round; [1 dcC, 3 tr2d] 4 times, invisible join. 28 sts
Rnd 3: Using CC and starting in the first 1-ch of the dcC of the previous round; [1 dcC, 5 dc] 4 times, invisible join. 36 sts
Rnd 4: Using MC and starting in the first 1-ch of the dcC of the previous round; [1 dcC, 3 tr2d, 1 dc, 3 tr2d] 4 times, invisible join. 44 sts
Rnd 5: Using CC and starting in the first 1-ch of the dcC of the previous round; [1 dcC, 4 dc, 1 tr2d, 4 dc] 4 times, invisible join. 52 sts
Rnd 6: Using MC and starting in the first 1-ch of the dcC of the previous round; [1 dcC, 4 tr2d, 3 dc, 4 tr2d] 4 times, invisible join. 60 sts
Rnd 7: Using CC and starting in the first 1-ch of the dcC of the previous round; [1 dcC, 5 dc, 3 tr2d, 5 dc] 4 times, invisible join. 68 sts
Rnd 8: Using MC and starting in the first 1-ch of the dcC of the previous round; [1 dcC, 5 tr2d, 5 dc, 5 tr2d] 4 times, invisible join. 76 sts
Rnd 9: Using CC and starting in the first 1-ch of the dcC of the previous round; [1 dcC, 6dc, 2 tr2d, 1 dc, 2 tr2d, 6dc] 4 times, invisible join. 84 sts
Rnd 10: Using MC and starting in the first 1-ch of the dcC of the previous round; [1 dcC, 7 tr2d, 2 dc, 1 tr2d, 2 dc, 7 tr2d] 4 times, invisible join. 92 sts
Rnd 11: Using CC and starting in the first 1-ch of the dcC of the previous round; [1 dcC, 21 dc] 4 times, invisible join. 100 sts
Rnd 12: Using MC and starting in the first 1-ch of the dcC of the previous round; [1 dcC, 23 tr2d] 4 times, invisible join. 108 sts
Finish and weave in all ends.
Extend the squares
Next, extend the top of the square as follows.
R 1: Using MC join your yarn to one of the corner 2-ch spaces, 1 ch (does not count as a stitch) 1 stacked dc (counts as your first tr), 2 tr, (1 ch, 1 sk, 3 tr) 4 times, 1 chm 1 sk, 2 tr, 1 tr into the corner 2-ch space, turn. 23 sts
R 2: 1 ch (does not count as a stitch), 1 stacked dc (counts as your first tr), 2 tr, (1tr into the 1-ch sp, 3 tr) 5 times, turn. 23 sts
R 3 to 4: Rep row 2. 23 sts
Finish and weave in all ends.
Make a second extended square.
Join The Squares
To join the two panels together you’ll be working through both panels at the same time working around three edges.
Straight Join
A) Using CC and with wrong sides facing each other, insert your hook under both loops of the last tr at the top of each panel.
B) With your hook still in place, turn your work so you’ll be crocheting down the side of the extended panel. Join your yarn and work 2 dc into the side of the treble crochet, ensuring that your hook goes through both panels.
C) Work 2 dc into the side of each of the remaining 3 treble crochets of the extension.
D) Work 1 dc into the 2-ch corner space of the square, ensuring that your hook goes through both panels.
E) 1 dc into each stitch across until you reach the next corner space. 3 dc into the 2-ch corner space.
F) Repeat step E) along the bottom edge.
G) Working across the final side and ensuring that your hook passes through both panels, work 1 dc into each stitch across until you reach the 2-ch corner space, 1 dc into the corner space.
H) Moving onto the extension section, work 2 dc into the side of each of the four treble crochets.
Finish off an weave in ends and move onto the simple top.
Picot Join
A) Using CC and with wrong sides facing each other, insert your hook under both loops of the last tr at the top of each panel.
B) With your hook still in place, turn your work so you’ll be crocheting down the side of the extended panel. Join your yarn and work (1 dc, 1 P, 1 dc) into the side of the treble crochet, ensuring that your hook goes through both panels.
C) Work 2 dc into the side of the next treble crochet, (1 P, 2dc) into the next treble crochet, (1 dc, 1 P, 1 dc) into the next treble crochet.
D) Work 1 dc into the 2-ch corner space of the square, ensuring that your hook goes through both panels.
E) 1 dc, *(1 P, 3 dc) 8 times, (1 P, 1 dc) into the 2-ch corner space.
F) 2 dc, (1 P, 3 dc) 7 times, 1 P, 2 dc, (1 dc, 1 P, 1 dc) into the 2-ch corner space, (3 dc, 1 P) 8 times, 1 dc, 1 dc into the 2-ch corner space.
G) Moving onto the extension section, work (1 dc, 1 P, 1 dc) into the side of the next treble crochet, 2 dc into the side of the next treble crochet, (1 P, 2 dc) into the side of the next treble crochet, (1 dc, 1 P, 1dc) into the side of the final treble crochet.
Finish and weave in all ends.
Top Edging
Straight Edging
Using CC, join your yarn to the last tr of one side of the pouch, 1 ch, working into the same stitch 1 dc, working into the side of the dc used to join the squares 1 dc, 27 dc; working into the side of the dc used to join the squares 1 dc, 26 dc, slst to join.
Finish and weave in all ends.
Picot Edging
Using CC, join your yarn to the last tr of one side of the pouch, 1 ch, working into the same stitch and into the side of the dc used to join the squares, dc2tog, (1 P, 3 dc) 8 times, 2 dc; working into the last stitch of that side and into the side of the dc used to join the squares, dc2tog; (1 P, 3 dc) 8 times, 2 dc, slst to join.
Finish and weave in all ends
I-cord Closure
Reserve a tail that is approx 2.5 times the length of cord you want to create, make a slip knot with the working end of the yarn and insert your hook. *Wrap the tail yarn over the hook from front to back (two loops on your hook), yo with the working yarn and pull through both loops on your hook to create 1 st; Rep from * as many times as needed to create your I-cord.
I hope you’ve enjoyed making these treat bags, don’t forget to tag me @gorgeouscrafts if you share on social media. If you’re looking for more Valentine inspiration check out this round-up of Valentine’s Day crochet patterns.
Thanks for visiting my blog!
Whether through sharing my content or making a purchase, your support enables me to keep creating and sharing free content for everyone’s enjoyment.
Your support is truly valued and greatly appreciated!
Follow Gorgeous Crafts on your favourite Social Media sites. Follow me on Facebook, Pinterest, TikTok and Instagram!
Register for my newsletter here to stay up-to-date on new patterns, tutorials and everything going on at Gorgeous Crafts!
Copyright of Gorgeous Crafts 2026. This pattern is for unlimited personal use. Do not reproduce or sell the pattern as your own. The pattern may not be copied in any way (print or digitally), in part or in full. You may sell items that are made from this pattern but please credit gorgeouscrafts.co.uk and add a link back to this post where possible. Shop owners, if you wish to make a kit with yarn using this pattern, please request permission and copyright details from the designer before offering any kits for sale.
Abbreviations – US terms
*: Repeat instructions following a single * (asterisk) as directed
**: Repeat instructions between **’s as many times as noted after
[ ], { }: Repeat instruction between [ ]’s or { }’s as many times as noted after
BLO: Back Loop Only
CC: Contrasting Colour
ch: Chain
dc: Double Crochet
FLO: Front Loop Only
MC: Main Colour
MR: Magic Ring
P: Picot Stitch
r: Row
rep: Repeat
rnd: Round
RS: Right Side
sc: Single Crochet
scC: Single Crochet Corner
sk: Skip
ss: Slip Stitch
sp: Space
st(s): Stitch(es)
tog: Together
WS: Wrong Side
yo: Yarn Over Hook
Special Stitches – US terms
C – Corner stitches: In rnd 2 work (1 sc, 2 ch, 1 sc) into the BLO of a stitch to create a corner. From rnd 3 onwards work 1 sc into the BLO of the first corner chain, 2 ch, 1 sc into the BLO of the second corner chain.
Carrying the yarn: From rnd 3 onwards after completing your invisible join from the previous rnd, you will work the first stitch into the BLO of the first corner chain. In order to hide the join on the back of your work you will carry the yarn from the previous round for one stitch, please also see the photo tutorial below.
MR: There are two ways to work a Magic Ring; two photo tutorials can be found in the pdf pattern. Please also see the Video Tutorial.
dc2d: A double crochet stitch worked into the front loops of the stitch of the same colour 2 rounds down. The dc2d stitch is always worked in front of the single crochet stitches in the round below. Leave sc st of the opposite colour behind each dc2d unworked.
Invisible join: At the end of each round, remove hook from loop, insert hook under both loops of beg st from back to front, place loop back on hook and pull through st. Using new colour, yo and 1 ch. Tighten all loops, drop previous colour to wrong side. You can find a tutorial here.
Picot stitch: Chain 3, ss into the 3rd chain from the hook to complete the picot.
Stacked single crochet: stacked single crochets replace the 3 ch at the start of some rows (the pdf pattern includes a photo tutorial); sc into the stitch, then working into the side loop of the sc, yo and pull up a loop (2 loops on your hook), yo and pull through all loops on hook.
Centre-out Mosaic Crochet Corner Stitch – Round 2
1) Insert hook into the back loop of the first st. 2) Lay the working yarn of the previous colour over the top of the back loop and hold in place. 3) Yo, and pull through a loop. 4 Yo and pull through both loops on your hook to complete the sc. 5) Chain 2. 6) Insert your hook back under the back loop of the same st and work your second single crochet. That’s your corner complete. (1 sc, 2 ch, 1 sc) into the back loop of a st.
Centre-out Mosaic Crochet Corner Stitch – Round 3
1) In the image above the first st is marked with a st marker. 2) Skip the first st and insert your hook into the BLO of the first ch from the corner sts of the round below. Lay the working yarn of the previous colour over the top of your work and hold in place. 3) Work a sc. 4) Chain 2.
1) In the image above the first st is marked with a st marker. 2) Skip the first st and insert your hook into the BLO of the first ch from the corner sts of the round below. Lay the working yarn of the previous colour over the top of your work and hold in place. 3) Work a sc. 4) Chain 2.
5) Insert your hook into the BLO of the second ch from the corner sts of the round below. 6) Work a second sc to complete the corner sts. 7) Complete the rest of the round. 8) When you have one st left, you will work the final st into the first st from the previous round.
Free Written Pattern – US terms
Create the centre-out squares
From rnd 3, carry the previous colour for one st (see tutorial above).
Rnd 0: Using MC; create a MR, 1 ch (does not count as a st, here or throughout), 8 sc into the MR, invisible join. 8 sts
Rnd 1: Using CC; [1 scC, 1 sc] 4 times, invisible join. 20 sts
Rnd 2: Using MC and starting in the first 1-ch of the scC of the previous round; [1 scC, 3 dc2d] 4 times, invisible join. 28 sts
Rnd 3: Using CC and starting in the first 1-ch of the scC of the previous round; [1 scC, 5 sc] 4 times, invisble join. 36 sts
Rnd 4: Using MC and starting in the first 1-ch of the scC of the previous round; [1 scC, 3 dc2d, 1 sc, 3 dc2d] 4 times, invisible join. 44 sts
Rnd 5: Using CC and starting in the first 1-ch of the scC of the previous round; [1 scC, 4 sc, 1 dc2d, 4 sc] 4 times, invisible join. 52 sts
Rnd 6: Using MC and starting in the first 1-ch of the scC of the previous round; [1 scC, 4 dc2d, 3 sc, 4 dc2d] 4 times, invisible join. 60 sts
Rnd 7: Using CC and starting in the first 1-ch of the scC of the previous round; [1 scC, 5 sc, 3 dc2d, 5 sc] 4 times, invisible join. 68 sts
Rnd 8: Using MC and starting in the first 1-ch of the scC of the previous round; [1 scC, 5 dc2d, 5 sc, 5 dc2d] 4 times, invisible join. 76 sts
Rnd 9: Using CC and starting in the first 1-ch of the scC of the previous round; [1 scC, 6 sc, 2 dc2d, 1 sc, 2 dc2d, 6sc] 4 times, invisible join. 84 sts
Rnd 10: Using MC and starting in the first 1-ch of the scC of the previous round; [1 scC, 7 dc2d, 2 sc, 1 dc2d, 2 sc, 7 dc2d] 4 times, invisible join. 92 sts
Rnd 11: Using CC and starting in the first 1-ch of the scC of the previous round; [1 scC, 21 sc] 4 times, invisible join. 100 sts
Rnd 12: Using MC and starting in the first 1-ch of the scC of the previous round; [1 scC, 23 dc2d] 4 times, invisible join. 108 sts
Finish and weave in all ends.
Extend the squares
Next, extend the top of the square as follows.
R 1: Using MC join your yarn to one of the corner 2-ch spaces, 1 ch (does not count as a stitch) 1 stacked sc (counts as your first dc), 2 dc, (1 ch, 1 sk, 3 dc) 4 times, 1 chm 1 sk, 2 dc, 1 dc into the corner 2-ch space, turn. 23 sts
R 2: 1 ch (does not count as a stitch), 1 stacked sc (counts as your first dc), 2 dc, (1dc into the 1-ch sp, 3 dc) 5 times, turn. 23 sts
R 3 to 4: Rep row 2. 23 sts
Finish and weave in all ends.
Make a second extended square.
Join The Squares
To join the two panels together you’ll be working through both panels at the same time working around three edges.
Straight join
A) Using CC and with wrong sides facing each other, insert your hook under both loops of the last dc at the top of each panel.
B) With your hook still in place, turn your work so you’ll be crocheting down the side of the extended panel. Join your yarn and work 2 sc into the side of the double crochet, ensuring that your hook goes through both panels.
C) Work 2 sc into the side of each of the remaining 3 double crochets of the extension.
D) Work 1 sc into the 2-ch corner space of the square, ensuring that your hook goes through both panels.
E) 1 sc into each stitch across until you reach the next corner space. 3 sc into the 2-ch corner space.
F) Repeat step E) along the bottom edge.
G) Working across the final side and ensuring that your hook passes through both panels, work 1 sc into each stitch across until you reach the 2-ch corner space, 1 sc into the corner space.
H) Moving onto the extension section, work 2 sc into the side of each of the four double crochets.
Finish off an weave in ends and move onto the simple top.
Picot join
A) Using CC and with wrong sides facing each other, insert your hook under both loops of the last dc at the top of each panel.
B) With your hook still in place, turn your work so you’ll be crocheting down the side of the extended panel. Join your yarn and work (1 sc, 1 P, 1 sc) into the side of the double crochet, ensuring that your hook goes through both panels.
C) Work 2 sc into the side of the next double crochet, (1 P, 2 sc) into the next double crochet, (1 sc, 1 P, 1 sc) into the next double crochet.
D) Work 1 sc into the 2-ch corner space of the square, ensuring that your hook goes through both panels.
E) 1 sc, *(1 P, 3 sc) 8 times, (1 P, 1 sc) into the 2-ch corner space.
F) 2 sc, (1 P, 3 sc) 7 times, 1 P, 2 sc, (1 sc, 1 P, 1 sc) into the 2-ch corner space, (3 sc, 1 P) 8 times, 1 sc, 1 sc into the 2-ch corner space.
G) Moving onto the extension section, work (1 sc, 1 P, 1 sc) into the side of the next double crochet, 2 sc into the side of the next double crochet, (1 P, 2 sc) into the side of the next double crochet, (1 sc, 1 P, 1sc) into the side of the final trebl crochet.
Finish and weave in all ends.
Top Edging
Straight edging
Using CC, join your yarn to the last dc of one side of the pouch, 1 ch, working into the same stitch 1 sc, working into the side of the sc used to join the squares 1 sc, 27 sc; working into the side of the sc used to join the squares 1 sc, 26 sc, slst to join.
Finish and weave in all ends.
Picot edging
Using CC, join your yarn to the last dc of one side of the pouch, 1 ch, working into the same stitch and into the side of the sc used to join the squares, sc2tog, (1 P, 3 sc) 8 times, 2 sc; working into the last stitch of that side and into the side of the sc used to join the squares, sc2tog; (1 P, 3 sc) 8 times, 2 sc, slst to join.
Finish and weave in all ends
I-cord Closure
Reserve a tail that is approx 2.5 times the length of cord you want to create, make a slip knot with the working end of the yarn and insert your hook. *Wrap the tail yarn over the hook from front to back (two loops on your hook), yo with the working yarn and pull through both loops on your hook to create 1 st; Rep from * as many times as needed to create your I-cord.
I hope you’ve enjoyed making these treat bags, don’t forget to tag me @gorgeouscrafts if you share on social media. If you’re looking for more Valentine inspiration check out this round-up of Valentine’s Day crochet patterns.
Thanks for visiting my blog!
Whether through sharing my content or making a purchase, your support, enables me to keep creating and sharing free content for everyone’s enjoyment.
Your support is truly valued and greatly appreciated!
Follow Gorgeous Crafts on your favourite Social Media sites. Follow me on Facebook, Pinterest, TikTok and Instagram!
Register for my newsletter here to stay up-to-date on new patterns, tutorials and everything going on at Gorgeous Crafts!
Copyright of Gorgeous Crafts 2026. This pattern is for unlimited personal use. Do not reproduce or sell the pattern as your own. The pattern may not be copied in any way (print or digitally), in part or in full. You may sell items that are made from this pattern but please credit gorgeouscrafts.co.uk and add a link back to this post where possible. Shop owners, if you wish to make a kit with yarn using this pattern, please request permission and copyright details from the designer before offering any kits for sale.
