Looking for a festive, beginner-friendly crochet project that’s quick to make and full of charm? This Christmas Pocket crochet pattern is perfect for adding a handmade touch to your tree – and it doubles as a tiny gift holder for special little surprises!
Made from two centre-out mosaic crochet squares, this clever ornament joins along two edges to form a handy pocket that’s ideal for hiding small treats, love notes, or even a tiny gift. With a simple hanging loop, it’s ready to display on your Christmas tree as part of your handmade holiday decorations or to gift to someone special.
I always love creating small festive projects as the holidays approach. There’s something so special about decorating the tree with handmade pieces – each one tells a little story and add a little warmth to your Christmas traditions.
I was so thrilled to be invited to join the Christmas Ornament Blog Hop – if you know me, you’ll know how much I love Christmas crafting, decorating and celebrating! Back in 2023 I designed the Wavy Christmas Bauble pattern bursting with bright, cheerful colours. For this blog hop I wanted something a little more traditional, something cute, but also practical.
Why you’ll love this pattern:
- Quick festive project – perfect for last-minute gifting
- Uses small amounts of yarn – a great stash buster
- Great introduction to centre-out mosaic crochet
- Doubles as a reusable gift pocket or tree ornament
Let me ask you, what do you do when you have a small but special gift for someone you love? Do you wrap it and put it under the tree, only for it to get lost beneath the bigger presents? Or do you try to hide it in the branches and hope it doesn’t fall (or possibly break)?
That’s exactly where my little Christmas pocket comes in! It’s small enough to be a beautiful decoration on its own but sturdy enough to hold an extra special little gift. Whether it’s a perfume mini, a pair or earrings or cuff links or a gift card, your present will look extra special tucked inside it’s own handmade pocket and hung on the tree.
Looking for more free crochet patterns?
Here are some other patterns you might like:
About This Easy Christmas Pocket Crochet Pattern
The Christmas Pocket crochet pattern uses the Centre-Out Overlay Mosaic crochet technique – but don’t let that put you off! It’s as simple as making a granny square! Overlay mosaic crochet uses two stitches:
- Back loop only double crochet (US terms = back loop only single crochet)
- Front loop only treble crochet (US terms = front loop only double crochet).
There’s also a small variation for the corner stitch, but it’s still just a front loop only treble crochet (US terms = front loop only double crochet) – nothing complicated!
Centre-Out Mosaic Crochet Patterns
The overlay mosaic crochet is a wonderfully simple yet striking technique. By using two contrasting colours, you can create eye-catching, geometric designs without ever having to change colours mid-round – that’s one of the best parts!
Centre-out overlay mosaic crochet combines this technique with the flexibility of classic granny squares. Think of it as granny squares with a twist – or perhaps granny squares on steroids!
Anything you can make with granny squares, you can make with a centre-out mosaic square – from blankets and cushions to ornaments and accessories.
Although I often label my mosaic crochet patterns as ‘intermediate’, they’re absolutely suitable for confident beginners too. If you can work basic crochet stitches, you can do mosaic crochet – it really is that easy.
You’ll find the full written instructions are below in both UK and US crochet terms, along with a few photo tutorials to guide you through the trickier parts.
Skill Level
The Christmas Pocket ornament is a fun, festive make that’s perfect for confident beginners and mosaic crochet lovers alike.
So grab your yarn, hook and a cup of hot chocolate, turn on your favourite Christmas playlist, and let’s get started on your next favourite handmade Christmas ornament!
Disclosure: Some of the links below are affiliate links (*), meaning, at no additional cost to you, I will earn a small commission if you click through and make a purchase. As an Amazon Associate and an Awin Affiliate I earn from qualifying purchases.
Christmas Ornaments Blog Hop & Bundle
The Christmas Pocket crochet pattern is a featured pattern in the Christmas Ornaments 2025 Blog Hop hosted by Stardust Gold Crochet. The Christmas Pocket pattern will be free on the blog from 9th November.
Scroll down to find the full written pattern, chart and photo tutorials in both UK and US crochet terms.
To check out some of the other amazing FREE patterns in the event, please click on the
image button below for further details.
Missed a day?
You can also grab all the blog hop patterns in the Christmas Ornaments Pattern bundle by clicking on the image below!
When you purchase the bundle you get access to ALL 24 amazing patterns, perfect for updating your winter wardrobes!
Hurry! This bundle is currently available at $12.99 but only for a limited time! After 30th November it goes up to $15.99. Click on the image above to snag your copy NOW!
Get A Bonus Pattern
If you purchase a copy of the Christmas Ornaments pattern ebook using my special link, you’ll also receive a copy of my Snowflake Wine Cosy* – it’s available exclusively to people purchasing the Christmas in July eBook through my special link here.
Christmas Pocket Crochet Pattern
Supplies
Click the links below to see exactly which materials I used!
3.5 mm hook
Scissors
Stitch Markers (I also have a selection from Cats Whiskers Cro Store and Joy to the Wool Co.)
Tapestry Needle
Scheepjes Colour Crafter (100% Acrylic Yarn – DK / #3 / Light Worsted; 300m / 328 yards per 100g)
- 1 skein of 1001 Weert (MC) – 60m/66yds
Stylecraft Special DK (100% Acrylic Yarn – DK / #3 / Light Worsted; 295m / 323 yards per 100g)
- 1 skein of Lipstick (1246) (CC) – 50m/55yds
I recommend any two contrasting solid colours. But you can swap one for a multi-coloured, variegated yarn.
Gauge
Mosaic crochet square = 8.5 x 8.5 cm (3.35 x 3.35 in) when worked across the pattern (Gauge is not essential).
Unblocked Sizing
10 cm/4 in high x 10 cm / 4 in wide when laid flat, excluding the loop.
Pattern Notes
Finished squares can be joined together using your favourite method just like a classic granny square.
How to Read The Pattern
When in the instructions you have a number followed by a stitch, eg 14 dc, this means you have to work 1dc into each of the next 14 sts.
Instructions in brackets (….) or square brackets […] are worked as many times as indicated.
Centre-out Mosaic Crochet Pattern Notes
- You can either follow the chart or written instructions.
- Overlay mosaic crochet is created by working with two contrasting colours in alternating rounds. All rounds are worked on the right side of the project.
- Unless otherwise indicated, ALL double crochet (US = single crochet) stitches are worked into the back loops of the stitch while treble crochet (US = double crochet) stitches are worked into the front loops of stitches from 2 rounds below. The treble crochet stitches are covering up the double crochet stitches from the previous round.
- Start each round with a 1 ch (does not count as a st).
- End each round with an invisible join. To avoid weaving in all those ends, do not cut the yarn when you finish a round. Simply change colours when working the invisible join, use the new colour to work the 1 ch, then continue with the next round.
- From round 3 carry the previous colour for one st, then leave to pick it back up as needed.
How to read the chart
- Read the chart from the bottom up, each row of squares represents one round.
- Each round is read from right to left for right-handed crocheters.
- Numbers running up the side of the chart are the round count.
- Each round is worked in a single colour. The coloured square beside each round, indicating the colour you will use for the entire round.
- Change the colour of yarn with every round.
- Each square represents one stitch. A blank square of any colour indicates a double crochet (US = single crochet) worked into the back loop; a square of any colour with an ‘X’ indicates a treble crochet (US = double crochet) worked into the front loop of the stitch two rounds down.
- You should follow the symbols in the squares. The colours in the middle of the chart are to be used as a guide only and should represent how your piece will look once that round has been completed.
- Do not change colours mid-round (unless the pattern calls for it)
Right-handed Chart
Chart Key – UK Terms
Left-handed Chart
Abbreviations – UK Terms
*: Repeat instructions following a single * (asterisk) as directed
**: Repeat instructions between **’s as many times as noted after
[ ], { }: Repeat instruction between [ ]’s or { }’s as many times as noted after
BLO: Back Loop Only
CC: Contrasting Colour
ch: Chain
dc: Double Crochet
dcC: Double Crochet Corner
FLO: Front Loop Only
Fptr: front post treble crochet
MC: Main Colour
MdC: Modified Corner Stitch
MR: Magic Ring
rep: Repeat
rnd: Round
RS: Right Side
sk: Skip
sl st: Slip Stitch
st(s): Stitch(es)
tog: Together
tr: Treble Crochet
yo: Yarn Over Hook
Special Stitches – UK Terms
C – Corner stitches: In rnd 2 work (1 dc, 2 ch, 1 dc) into the BLO of a stitch to create a corner (see photo tutorial below). From rnd 3 onwards work 1 dc into the BLO of the first corner chain, 2 ch, 1 dc into the BLO of the second corner chain (see photo tutorial below).
MdC – Modified Corner stitches: This is a tr2d worked between the usual ‘2 ch’ of each corner – see the photo tutorial below. This creates a diagonal bar of colour in each corner and is worked by making a front loop treble crochet into one of the corner chains 2 rows below. It doesn’t matter which corner ch from the previous 2 rows you use as long as you are consistent in following rounds when the diagonal bars are required. This is referred to as a ‘modified corner’. The tr2d of a modified corner will always be missed in the following round, only the following round’s modified corner stitches should be worked into this tr2d.
tr2d: A Treble crochet stitch worked into the front loops of the stitch of the same colour 2 rounds down. The tr2d stitch is always worked in front of the double crochet stitches in the round below. Leave dc st of the opposite colour behind each tr2d unworked. In the Chart this is represented by an X. Yo, insert hook into flo of st 2 rounds down, yo, pull up a loop, [yo, draw through 2 loops on hook] twice. Leave st behind tr2d unworked.
Invisible join: At the end of each round, remove hook from loop, insert hook under both loops of beg st from back to front, place loop back on hook and pull through st. Using new colour, yo and 1 ch. Tighten all loops, drop previous colour to wrong side. You can find a tutorial here.
Carrying the yarn: From rnd 3 onwards after completing your invisible join from the previous rnd, you will work the first stitch into the BLO of the first corner chain. In order to hide the join on the back of your work you will carry the yarn from the previous round for one stitch, please also see the photo tutorial
Centre-out Mosaic Crochet Corner Stitch – Round 2
1) Insert hook into the back loop of the first st. 2) Lay the working yarn of the previous colour over the top of the back loop and hold in place. 3) Yo, and pull through a loop. 4) Yo and pull through both loops on your hook to complete the dc. 5) Chain 2. 6) Insert your hook back under the back loop of the same st and work your second double crochet. That’s your corner complete. (1 dc, 2 ch, 1 dc) into the back loop of a st.
Centre-out Mosaic Crochet Corner Stitch – Round 3
1) In the image above the first st is marked with a st marker. 2) Skip the first st and insert your hook into the BLO of the first ch from the corner sts of the round below. Lay the working yarn of the previous colour over the top of your work and hold in place. 3) Work a dc. 4) Chain 2.
5) Insert your hook into the BLO of the second ch from the corner sts of the round below. 6) Work a second dc to complete the corner sts. 7) Complete the rest of the round. 8) When you have one st left, you will work the final st into the first st from the previous round.
Centre-out Mosaic Crochet Modified Corner Stitch
1) Start your corner by working 1 BLOdc into the first corner ch from the row below, 1 ch. 2) Work a tr2d into the FLO of st 2 rows down, into which you had created the first dcC – marked with a st marker in the images above. 3) Chain one. 4) Now work a dc into the BLO of the second corner ch from the row below to complete your MdC. Image above shows the completed modified corner stitch (MdC). 5) On the next round, complete the dcC as normal, while skipping over the extra tr2d of the modified corner. 6) You may need to move the tr2d from the modified corner aside to find the required sts 2 rows down.
Free Written Pattern – UK terms
Rnd 0: Using MC; create a MR, 1 ch (does not count as a st, here or throughout), 8 dc into the MR, invisible join. 8 sts
Rnd 1: Using CC; [1 dcC, 1 dc] 4 times, invisible join. 12 sts
Rnd 2: Using MC and starting in the first 1-ch of the dcC of the previous round; [1 MdC, 1 dc, 1 tr2d, 1dc] 4 times, invisible join. 16 sts
Rnd 3: Using CC and starting in the first 1-ch of the MdC of the previous round; [1 dcC, 2 tr2d, 1 dc, 1 tr2d, 1 dc] 4 times, invisible join. 28 sts
Rnd 4: Using MC and starting in the first 1-ch of the dcC of the previous round; [1 MdC, 3 dc, 1 tr2d, 3 dc] 4 times, invisible join. 36 sts
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Rnd 5: Using CC and starting in the first 1-ch of the MdC of the previous round; [1 dcC, 1 dc, 1 tr2d, 5 dc, 1 tr2d, 1 dc] 4 times, invisible join. 44 sts
Rnd 6: Using MC and starting in the firs 1-ch of the previous round; [1 MdC, 1 dc, (1 tr2d, 3 dc) twice, 1 tr2d, 1 dc] 4 times, invisible join. 52 sts
Rnd 7: Using CC and starting in the first 1-ch of the MdC of the previous round; [1 dcC, 1 tr2d, [1 tr2d, 1 dc) 5 times, 2 tr2d] 4 times, invisible join. 60 sts
Finish and weave in all ends.
Make a second square and move onto joining the squares
Zig Zag Join
Holding the two squares together with WS facing you’re going to join the squares along two sides. You can use any method you prefer to join the squares, I chose the zig zag slip stitch join.
Using MC, create a slip knot and add it to your hook, your working yarn will always sit at the back of your work. You should work through both loops of your stitches.
Insert your hook, from front to back, into the 2-ch corner space of one square, yo, pull a loop through the loop on your hook.
Insert your hook, from front to back, into the 2-ch corner space of the other square, yo and pull a loop through the loop on your hook.
Continue across working a sl st into each st, alternating between squares. Work 2 sets of slip sts in the 2-ch corner spaces.
Continue along the next side of the squares. Work 1 slip st into the next 2-ch corner spaces of each square.
Do not finish and do not cut your yarn, move onto the Edging. The squares should now be joined on two sides.
Reverse Crab Stitch Edging
I used the easy version of the Reverse Crab Stitch, you can find a video tutorial for it by clicking here.
You will now work around the remaining edges of each square in turn.
After joining the squares you should still have a loop on your hook and you should have ended the join in a 2-ch corner space. Keep your tension loose.
A) 1 ch, inset your hook into the same 2-ch corner space, yo and pull up a loop (two loops on your hook), give them a little pull upwards to stretch them a little bit, then rotate your hook ani-clockwise to put a twist in the two loops, yo and pull through both loops on your hook.
B) Inset your hook into the next st (or 2-ch corner space depending upon where your join ended), yo and pull up a loop (two loops on your hook), give them a little pull upwards to stretch them a little bit, then rotate your hook ani-clockwise to put a twist in the two loops, yo and pull through both loops on your hook.
C) Continue around the opening of your pocket, ensuring you work one reverse crab st into each of the 2-ch corner spaces.
D) After completing the final st finish it off with an invisible join: take your hook out of the loop,insert it from back to front under the very first reverse crab st that you worked, put the loop back on your hook and pull it through to the back of your work.
Finish and weave in all ends.
How to create the Handle
Join your yarn to one of the top 2-ch corner spaces. I inserted my hook under the reverse crab stitch and worked over it.
A) 20 ch, sl st to the other 2-ch corner space, working over the top of the reverse crab st.
B) 1 ch, turn and dc into each ch across, invisible join by inserting your hook from back to front and pulling the loop through. Finish and weave in all ends.
And you’re done! I’d love to see your Christmas Pocket creations! Tag me on Instagram @gorgeouscrafts or share them in my Facebook group – let’s make this Christmas extra special!
Thanks for visiting my blog!
Whether through sharing my content or making a purchase, your support enables me to keep creating and sharing free content for everyone’s enjoyment.
Your support is truly valued and greatly appreciated!
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Register for my newsletter here to stay up-to-date on new patterns, tutorials and everything going on at Gorgeous Crafts!
Copyright of Gorgeous Crafts 2025. This pattern is for unlimited personal use. Do not reproduce or sell the pattern as your own. The pattern may not be copied in any way (print or digitally), in part or in full. You may sell items that are made from this pattern but please credit gorgeouscrafts.co.uk and add a link back to this post where possible. Shop owners, if you wish to make a kit with yarn using this pattern, please request permission and copyright details from the designer before offering any kits for sale.
Right-handed Chart
Chart Key – US Terms
Left-handed Chart
Abbreviations – US terms
*: Repeat instructions following a single * (asterisk) as directed
**: Repeat instructions between **’s as many times as noted after
[ ], { }: Repeat instruction between [ ]’s or { }’s as many times as noted after
BLO: Back Loop Only
CC: Contrasting Colour
ch: Chain
dc: Double Crochet
FLO: Front Loop Only
MC: Main Colour
MdC: Modified Corner Stitch
MR: Magic Ring
rep: Repeat
rnd: Round
RS: Right Side
sc: Single Crochet
scC: Single Crochet Corner
sk: Skip
ss: Slip Stitch
sp: Space
st(s): Stitch(es)
tog: Together
WS: Wrong Side
yo: Yarn Over Hook
Special Stitches – US terms
C – Corner stitches: In rnd 2 work (1 sc, 2 ch, 1 sc) into the BLO of a stitch to create a corner. From rnd 3 onwards work 1 sc into the BLO of the first corner chain, 2 ch, 1 sc into the BLO of the second corner chain. Please see the photo tutorial below.
MdC – Modified Corner stitches: This is a dc2d worked between the usual ‘2 ch’ of each corner – also see the photo tutorial below. This creates a diagonal bar of colour in each corner and is worked by making a front loop double crochet into one of the corner chains 2 rows below. It doesn’t matter which corner ch from the previous 2 rows you use as long as you are consistent in following rounds when the diagonal bars are required. This is referred to as a ‘modified corner’. The dc2d of a modified corner will always be missed in the following round, only the following round’s modified corner stitches should be worked into this dc2d.
dc2d: A double crochet stitch worked into the front loops of the stitch of the same colour 2 rounds down. The dc2d stitch is always worked in front of the single crochet stitches in the round below. Leave sc st of the opposite colour behind each dc2d unworked. In the Chart this is represented by an X. Yo, insert hook into flo of st 2 rounds down, yo, pull up a loop, [yo, draw through 2 loops on hook] twice. Leave st behind dc2d unworked.
Invisible join: At the end of each round, remove hook from loop, insert hook under both loops of beg st from back to front, place loop back on hook and pull through st. Using new colour, yo and 1 ch. Tighten all loops, drop previous colour to wrong side. You can find a tutorial here.
Carrying the yarn: From rnd 3 onwards after completing your invisible join from the previous rnd, you will work the first stitch into the BLO of the first corner chain. In order to hide the join on the back of your work you will carry the yarn from the previous round for one stitch, please also see the photo tutorial below.
Centre-out Mosaic Crochet Corner Stitch – Round 2
1) Insert hook into the back loop of the first st. 2) Lay the working yarn of the previous colour over the top of the back loop and hold in place. 3) Yo, and pull through a loop. 4 Yo and pull through both loops on your hook to complete the sc. 5) Chain 2. 6) Insert your hook back under the back loop of the same st and work your second single crochet. That’s your corner complete. (1 sc, 2 ch, 1 sc) into the back loop of a st.
Centre-out Mosaic Crochet Corner Stitch – Round 3
1) In the image above the first st is marked with a st marker. 2) Skip the first st and insert your hook into the BLO of the first ch from the corner sts of the round below. Lay the working yarn of the previous colour over the top of your work and hold in place. 3) Work a sc. 4) Chain 2.
5) Insert your hook into the BLO of the second ch from the corner sts of the round below. 6) Work a second sc to complete the corner sts. 7) Complete the rest of the round. 8) When you have one st left, you will work the final st into the first st from the previous round.
Centre-out Mosaic Crochet Modified Corner Stitch
1) Start your corner by working 1 BLOsc into the first corner ch from the row below, 1 ch. 2) Work a dc2d into the FLO of st 2 rows down, into which you had created the first scC – marked with a st marker in the images above. 3) Chain one. 4) Now work a sc into the BLO of the second corner ch from the row below to complete your MdC. Image above shows the completed modified corner stitch (MdC). 5) On the next round, complete the scC as normal, while skipping over the extra dc2d of the modified corner. 6) You may need to move the dc2d from the modified corner aside to find the required sts 2 rows down.
Free Written Pattern – US terms
Rnd 0: Using MC; create a MR, 1 ch (does not count as a st, here or throughout), 8 sc into the MR, invisible join. 8 sts
Rnd 1: Using CC; [1 scC, 1 sc] 4 times, invisible join. 12 sts
Rnd 2: Using MC and starting in the first 1-ch of the scC of the previous round; [1 MdC, 1 sc, 1 dc2d, 1sc] 4 times, invisible join. 16 sts
Rnd 3: Using CC and starting in the first 1-ch of the MdC of the previous round; [1 scC, 2 dc2d, 1 sc, 1 dc2d, 1 sc] 4 times, invisible join. 28 sts
Rnd 4: Using MC and starting in the first 1-ch of the scC of the previous round; [1 MdC, 3 sc, 1 dc2d, 3 sc] 4 times, invisible join. 36 sts
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Rnd 5: Using CC and starting in the first 1-ch of the MdC of the previous round; [1 scC, 1 sc, 1 dc2d, 5 sc, 1 dc2d, 1 sc] 4 times, invisible join. 44 sts
Rnd 6: Using MC and starting in the firs 1-ch of the previous round; [1 MdC, 1 sc, (1 dc2d, 3 sc) twice, 1 dc2d, 1 sc] 4 times, invisible join. 52 sts
Rnd 7: Using CC and starting in the first 1-ch of the MdC of the previous round; [1 scC, 1 dc2d, [1 dc2d, 1 sc) 5 times, 2 dc2d] 4 times, invisible join. 60 sts
Finish and weave in all ends.
Make a second square and move onto joining the squares.
Zig Zag Join
Holding the two squares together with WS facing you’re going to join the squares along two sides. You can use any method you prefer to join the squares, I chose the zig zag slip stitch join.
Using MC, create a slip knot and add it to your hook, your working yarn will always sit at the back of your work. You should work through both loops of your stitches.
Insert your hook, from front to back, into the 2-ch corner space of one square and work a ss: yo, pull a loop through the loop on your hook.
Insert your hook, from front to back, into the 2-ch corner space of the other square and work a ss: yo and pull a loop through the loop on your hook.
Continue across working a ss into each st, alternating between squares.
Work 2 sets of slip sts in the 2-ch corner spaces.
Continue along the next side of the squares. Work 1 slip st into the next 2-ch corner spaces of each square.
Do not finish and do not cut your yarn, move onto the Edging.
The squares should now be joined on two sides.
Reverse Crab Stitch Edging
I used the easy version of the Reverse Crab Stitch, you can find a video tutorial for it by clicking here.
You will now work around the remaining edges of each square in turn.
After joining the squares you should still have a loop on your hook and you should have ended the join in a 2-ch corner space. Keep your tension loose.
A) 1 ch, inset your hook into the same 2-ch corner space, yo and pull up a loop (two loops on your hook), give them a little pull upwards to stretch them a little bit, then rotate your hook ani-clockwise to put a twist in the two loops, yo and pull through both loops on your hook.
B) Inset your hook into the next st (or 2-ch corner space depending upon where your join ended), yo and pull up a loop (two loops on your hook), give them a little pull upwards to stretch them a little bit, then rotate your hook ani-clockwise to put a twist in the two loops, yo and pull through both loops on your hook.
C) Continue around the opening of your pocket, ensuring you work one reverse crab st into each of the 2-ch corner spaces.
D) After completing the final st finish it off with an invisible join: take your hook out of the loop,insert it from back to front under the very first reverse crab st that you worked, put the loop back on your hook and pull it through to the back of your work.
Finish and weave in all ends.
How to Create the Handle
Join your yarn to one of the top 2-ch corner spaces. I inserted my hook under the reverse crab stitch and worked over it.
A) 20 ch, ss to the other 2-ch corner space, working over the top of the reverse crab st.
B) 1 ch, turn and sc into each ch across, invisible join by inserting your hook from back to front and pulling the loop through. Finish and weave in all ends.
And you’re done! I’d love to see your Christmas Pocket creations! Tag me on Instagram @gorgeouscrafts or share them in my Facebook group – let’s make this Christmas extra special!
Thanks for visiting my blog!
Whether through sharing my content or making a purchase, your support, enables me to keep creating and sharing free content for everyone’s enjoyment.
Your support is truly valued and greatly appreciated!
Follow Gorgeous Crafts on your favourite Social Media sites. Follow me on Facebook, Pinterest, TikTok and Instagram!
Register for my newsletter here to stay up-to-date on new patterns, tutorials and everything going on at Gorgeous Crafts!
Copyright of Gorgeous Crafts 2025. This pattern is for unlimited personal use. Do not reproduce or sell the pattern as your own. The pattern may not be copied in any way (print or digitally), in part or in full. You may sell items that are made from this pattern but please credit gorgeouscrafts.co.uk and add a link back to this post where possible. Shop owners, if you wish to make a kit with yarn using this pattern, please request permission and copyright details from the designer before offering any kits for sale.
