If you want to add a fun twist to the traditional festive stocking then my mini granny square Christmas stocking pattern might be for you!

Granny Square Christmas Stocking Pattern

The holiday season is a perfect time to show off your creativity and add some playful charm into your home decor. One trend that is gaining popularity is the use of a granny square Christmas stocking.

There are lots of granny square stockings out there that combine the timeless charm of a traditional Christmas stocking with the delightful aesthetics of crochet granny squares.

But, to be brutely honest, I don’t like the way most of them look! That feels really ‘mean girl’ saying that but it’s true. I much prefer the stockings with a definite toe and heel. Plus I wanted to create something a little different, something more playful and fun that would appeal to all generations.

I decided to use my mini granny square pattern to create a dotty Christmas Stocking, that I feel will bring a touch of whimsy to your festive decor. It’s cute, it’s fun, with little pops of colour, yet traditional in the sense that your youngsters can leave it at the foot of their beds ready for Santa!

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Make it your own

For this design I’ve used my favourite colour palette – rainbow – but softened it by using pastel shades with white as the main colour. But you can customise it to match your personal style or existing home decor theme. Whether you prefer a vibrant and lively combination or a more subdued palette, the dotty granny square Christmas stocking offers endless possibilities to express your creativity.

For teenagers try swapping the white for black or dark navy yarn and use neon pink, orange, yellow, green and blue for the dots.

If you prefer more traditional colours, make cherry red the main colour with white dots, or make it all one colour and allow the texture from the dots to shine through.

Personalised Touches

Not only can you personalise it by choosing different coloured yarn, you can easily incorporate unique details, such as embroidered initials or small embellishments, to make each stocking truly one-of-a-kind. These personal touches add a heartwarming element to your home decor and makes each Christmas morning even more special.

A Conversation Starter

This dotty granny square Christmas stocking is not just a decorative piece; it becomes a conversation starter during holiday gatherings. The whimsical design and rainbow colors effortlessly draw attention and spark curiosity. Friends and family will inevitably be captivated by its charm and may even be inspired to start their own crochet projects.

Not just for the mantel piece

The traditional place for a Christmas stocking to be hung is above the fireplace mantel. But, if like me you don’t have a mantel, don’t worry, there are many other versatile display options. You can get creative and incorporate your granny square Christmas Stocking into other parts of your home, such as adorning staircases, decorating tabletops, or even using them as unique gift holders. This flexibility allows you to experiment with various arrangements, adding a delightful touch to every corner of your home.

So this holiday season, dive into the world of crochet and let the granny square Christmas stocking weave its magic, making your home a whimsical and joyful haven for all your loved ones.

I’ve created the dotty granny square Christmas Stocking pattern using both UK and US terms.

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What you’ll need:

Materials

Hook – 4mm; 5mm
Yarn: Any worsted yarn; I used Heatherly Worsted* from WeCrochet*/Knitpicks* (218 yrds / 199.3m / 100g) in the following colours / measurements
Snow White – MC: 398m / 436yds
Juice – CC1: 30m / 33yds
Orange – CC2: 30m / 33yds
Lemonade – CC3: 30m / 33yds
Lime – CC4: 30m / 33yds
Sky – CC5: 30m / 33yds
Stitch Markers* (optional)
Tapestry Needle* (for weaving in ends)

Size

24 cm x 56 cm (9.5 in x 22 in)

Tension

Each mini-granny square measures 4.5cm (2 3/4 in) across. Tension is not critical for this project.

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Dotty Granny Square Christmas Stocking Crochet Pattern

Jump to US Terms

Abbreviations – UK Terms:

CC: Contrast colour
CH: Chain.
DC: Double Crochet
DTR: Double Treble Crochet
HTR: Half Treble Crochet
MC: Main colour
R: Row
RND: Round
RS: Right side.
SLST: Slip stitch.
ST: Stitch
STS: Stitches
TR: Treble Crochet
TR2TOG: Treble crochet two (2) together (see special stitches).
WS: Wrong side.
YO: Yarn over

Special Stitches

Reverse Crab Stitch: The following is an easy way to create the reverse crab stitch using just double crochet – insert hook into the next st, yo and pull through a loop (2 loops on your hook), without removing your hook from your work, rotate your hook in an anti-clockwise motion which will twist the the two loops together, yo, pull through both loops on your hook.

You can find a video tutorial on my YouTube channel here.

Reverse crab stitch step by step

TR2TOG: Treble crochet two (2) together – yarn over, insert hook into st, yo and pull through the st (3 loops on hook), yo and pull through two loops (2 loops on hook), yo and insert hook into next st, yo and pull through st (4 loops on hook), yo and pull through 2 loops (3 loops on hook), yo and pull through all remaining loops on the hook.

Notes

Create all the different parts before moving onto constructing the stocking.

Block the different parts before beginning construction (I didn’t and really wish I had!)

Create the Toe

Using the smaller hook and MC

Rnd 1: Make a magic ring, 3 ch (counts as first 1 tr here), 15 tr into the magic ring, join with a slst to the 3rd ch of the first 3-ch,turn. 16 sts

Rnd 2: 3 ch (counts as first 1 tr), 1 tr in the same st, (2 tr in the next st) 15 times, join with a slst to the 3rd ch of the first 3-ch, turn. 32 sts

Rnd 3: 3 ch (counts as first 1 tr), 31 tr, join with a slst to the 3rd ch of the first 3-ch, turn. 32 sts

Rnd 4: 3 ch (counts as first 1 tr), 1 tr in the same st, (1 tr, 2 tr in the next st) 15 times, 1 tr, join with a slst to the 3rd ch of the first 3-ch, turn. 48 sts

Rnd 5: 3 ch (counts as first 1 tr), 47 tr, join with a slst to the 3rd ch of the first 3-ch, turn. 48 sts

Rnd 6: 3 ch (counts as first 1 tr), 1 tr in the same st, (2 tr, [2 tr in the next st]) 15 times, 2 tr, join with a slst to the 3rd ch of the first 3-ch, turn. 64 sts

Rnd 7: 3 ch (counts as first 1 tr), 63 tr, join with a slst to the 3rd ch of the first 3-ch, turn. 64 sts

Rnd 8: 3 ch (counts as first 1 tr), 1 tr in the same st, (3 tr, [2 tr in the next st]) 15 times, 3 tr, join with a slst to the 3rd ch of the first 3-ch, turn. 80 sts

Rnds 9-11: 3 ch (counts as first 1 tr), 79 tr, join with a slst to the 3rd ch of the first 3-ch, turn. 80 sts

Finishing

Weave in ends

You might also like this crochet start pattern

Create the Heel

Using the larger hook and MC, ch 42 (this will help ensure that your sts are not too tight which will help later on when you’re putting it all together)

Row 1 (RS): Change to the smaller hook, 1 tr in the 3rd ch from the hook (counts as 1 tr and 2-ch turning chain), 39 tr, turn. 40 sts

Row 2 (WS): 2 ch (does not count as a stitch here and throughout), tr2tog, 36 tr, tr2tog, turn. 38 sts

Row 3 (RS): 2 ch, tr2tog, 34 tr, tr2tog, turn. 36 sts

Row 4 (WS): 2 ch, tr2tog, 32 tr, tr2tog, turn. 34 sts

Row 5 (RS): 2 Ch3, tr2tog, 30 tr, tr2tog, turn. 32 sts

Row 6 (WS): 2 ch, tr2tog, 28 tr, tr2tog, turn. 30 sts

Row 7 (RS): 2 ch, tr2tog, 26 tr, tr2tog, turn. 28 sts

Row 8 (WS): 2 ch, tr2tog, 24 tr, tr2tog, turn. 26 sts

Row 9 (RS): 2 ch, tr across, turn. 26 sts

Row 10 (WS): 2 ch, 2 tr in the first st, 24 tr, 2 tr in the last st, turn. 28 sts

Row 11 (RS): 2 ch, 2 tr in the first st, 26 tr, 2 tr in the last st, turn. 30 sts

Row 12 (WS): 2 ch, 2 tr in the first st, 28 tr, 2 tr in the last st, turn. 32 sts

Row 13 (RS): 2 ch, 2 tr in the first st, 30 tr, 2 tr in the last st, turn. 34 sts

Row 14 (WS): 2 Ch3, 2 tr in the first st, 32 tr, 2 tr in the last st, turn. 36 sts

Row 15 (RS): 2 ch, 2 tr in the first st, 34 tr, 2 tr in the last st, turn. 38 sts

Row 16 (WS): 2 ch, 2 tr in the first st, 36 tr, 2 tr in the last st, turn. 40 sts

Finishing

Finish off leaving a long end for sewing.

Fold the heel in half with right sides together, whip stitch down the edges of your work to join the donal edges together to form a heel. Weave in all ends and turn right-side out so that the sewn edge is inside the heel.

mini granny square

Granny squares

Create 15 squares in each of the five CCs. To see a short video tutorial visit my Instagram page here or you can find the full written tutorial here.

Using the smaller hook and CC1 (CC2, CC3, CC4, CC5)

Rnd 1: make a magic ring, 3 ch (counts as first 1 tr), 11 tr into the magic ring, join with a slst to the 3rd ch of the first 3-ch. 12 sts

Rnd 2: Using MC1, join yarn to any st, 3 ch (counts as first 1 tr), [1 tr, 2 ch, 2 tr] into the same st to create a corner, (2 tr, [2 tr, 2 ch, 2 tr] into the next st) three times, 2 tr, join with a slst to the 3rd ch in the beginning 3-ch. 31sts, 4 2-ch spaces

Finishing

Weave in ends.

Joining Granny squares

I used the double crochet flat join, as outlined below, but you can use your preferred method of joining granny squares.

Lay out your squares with the coloured dots in your desired pattern to help you with placement.

TIP: once you know the order of the granny squares take a photo of the layout to refer back to. Alternatively, bind each column together using stitch markers so you can easily pack your project away without having to work out your layout again.

I joined the columns first and then the rows, the row joins will neatly cover the ends of the column joins.
Join the squares to the heel and toe when joining the rows.

When joining the heel rows, I joined the underside of the heel section first and then joined the rest of the row, working around the top of the heel section.

Double Crochet Flat Join

For a free full flat join tutorial with photos here.

Using the smaller hook and MC yarn, create a slip knot and place it over your hook.

Step 1. Working into the corner stitch of the first granny square, make a double crochet. Insert your hook into the stitch, yarn over, pull up a loop (two loops on your hook), yarn over and pull through both loops on your hook to complete a double crochet.

Step 2. Pull up the working loop on your hook to make it slightly longer. Remove your hook from the loop, insert your hook into the corresponding corner stitch of the second granny square going from front to back. Insert your hook back into the working loop and pull the loop through the stitch. Gently tighten the loop a little.

Step 3. Repeat Steps 1 and 2 until all crochet squares in the column have been joined.

Step 4. Repeat steps 1 to 4 until all columns have been joined.

Step 5. Repeat steps 1 to 4 for all the rows. When working over a row join, work up to your last stitch before you get to the join. To ensure there are no gaps, work into the corner stitch of the first square, pull up a loop in the corner stitch of the second square. Work a double crochet into the opposite corner of the next square (working over the join) and pull up a loop in the corner stitch of the fourth square.

You may find a slight hole at either end of the heel section, turn your project inside out and use a scrap of yarn to pull those edges together and neaten it all up.

Finishing

Weave in all ends.

Top of the Stocking

Now that all the granny squares are joined, you’re going to work along the top edge of the stocking to create a border. As you work around the stocking, work into each of the 8 sts of the granny squares and skip over all joins. You’ll be using the larger hook to make sure that the rows are not too tight.
Using the larger hook, attach MC to any stitch at the back of the stocking.

Row 1: 1 ch (does not count as a st), dc around, invisible join but do not change colours. 80 sts

Row 2: Repeat row 1. 80 sts

Row 3: Using CC1, 1 ch (does not count as a st), dc around, invisible join. 80 sts

Row 4: Using CC2, 1 ch (does not count as a st), dc around, invisible join. 80 sts

Row 5: Using CC3, 1 ch (does not count as a st), dc around, invisible join. 80 sts

Row 6: Using CC4, 1 ch (does not count as a st), dc around, invisible join. 80 sts

Row 7: Using CC5, 1 ch (does not count as a st), dc around, invisible join. 80 sts

Row 8: Using MC, 1 ch (does not count as a st), dc around, invisible join but do not change colours. 80 sts

Row 9: 1 ch (does not count as a st), dc around, invisible join but do not change colours. 80 sts

Row 10: 1 ch, Reverse Crab Stitch around, invisible join. 80 sts

Finishing

Fasten off and weave in ends

I hope you enjoy making these whimsical granny square Christmas stockings, and don’t forget to tag me in if you share on Instagram @gorgeouscrafts

Until next time, happy crocheting!

Heidi's signature

Copyright of Gorgeous Crafts 2023. This pattern is for unlimited personal use. Do not reproduce or sell the pattern as your own. The pattern may not be copied in any way (print or digitally), in part or in full.  You may sell items that are made from this pattern but please credit gorgeouscrafts.co.uk and add a link back to this post where possible. Shop owners, if you wish to make a kit with yarn using this pattern, please request permission and copyright details from the designer before offering any kits for sale.

Dotty Granny Square Christmas Stocking Crochet Pattern

Abbreviations – US Terms:

CC: Contrast colour.CH: Chain.
DC: Double Crochet.
DC2TOG: Double crochet two (2) together (see special stitches).
MC: Main colour.
R: Row.
RND: Round.
RS: Right side.
SC: Single Crochet.
SS: Slip stitch.
ST: Stitch.
STS: Stitches.
WS: Wrong side.
YO: Yarn over.

Special Stitches

Reverse Crab Stitch: The following is an easy way to create the reverse crab stitch using just double crochet – insert hook into the next st, yo and pull through a loop (2 loops on your hook) [image 1], without removing your hook from your work, rotate your hook in an anti-clockwise motion which will twist the the two loops together

  • image title

    image caption

  • , yo [image 4], pull through both loops on your hook.

    Reverse crab stitch step by step

    DC2TOG: Double crochet two (2) together – yarn over, insert hook into st, yo and pull through the st (3 loops on hook), yo and pull through two loops (2 loops on hook), yo and insert hook into next st, yo and pull through st (4 loops on hook), yo and pull through 2 loops (3 loops on hook), yo and pull through all remaining loops on the hook.

    Notes

    Create all the different parts before moving onto constructing the stocking.

    Block the different parts before beginning construction (I didn’t and really wish I had!)

    Create the Toe

    Using the smaller hook and MC

    Rnd 1: Make a magic ring, 3 ch (counts as first 1 dc here and throughout), 15 dc into the magic ring, join with a ss to the 3rd ch of the first 3-ch,turn. 16 sts

    Rnd 2: 3 ch, 1 dc in the same st, (2 dc in the next st) 15 times, join with a ss to the 3rd ch of the first 3-ch, turn. 32 sts

    Rnd 3: 3 ch, 31 dc, join with a ss to the 3rd ch of the first 3-ch, turn. 32 sts

    Rnd 4: 3 ch, 1 dc in the same st, (1 dc, 2 dc in the next st) 15 times, 1 dc, join with a ss to the 3rd ch of the first 3-ch, turn. 48 sts

    Rnd 5: 3 ch, 47 dc, join with a ss to the 3rd ch of the first 3-ch, turn. 48 sts

    Rnd 6: 3 ch, 1 dc in the same st, (2 dc, [2 dc in the next st]) 15 times, 2 dc, join with a ss to the 3rd ch of the first 3-ch, turn. 64 sts

    Rnd 7: 3 ch, 63 dc, join with a ss to the 3rd ch of the first 3-ch, turn. 64 sts

    Rnd 8: 3 ch, 1 dc in the same st, (3 dc, [2 dc in the next st]) 15 times, 3 dc, join with a ss to the 3rd ch of the first 3-ch, turn. 80 sts

    Rnds 9-11: 3 ch, 79 dc, join with a ss to the 3rd ch of the first 3-ch, turn. 80 sts

    Finishing

    Weave in ends

    You might also like this crochet start pattern

    Create the Heel

    Using the larger hook and MC, ch 42 (this will help ensure that your sts are not too tight which will help later on when you’re putting it all together).

    Row 1 (RS): Change to the smaller hook, 1 dc in the 3rd ch from the hook (counts as 1 dc and 2-ch turning chain), 39 dc, turn. 40 sts

    Row 2 (WS): 2 ch (does not count as a stitch here and throughout), dc2tog, 36 dc, dc2tog, turn. 38 sts

    Row 3 (RS): 2 ch, dc2tog, 34 dc, dc2tog, turn. 36 sts

    Row 4 (WS): 2 ch, dc2tog, 32 dc, dc2tog, turn. 34 sts

    Row 5 (RS): 2 Ch3, dc2tog, 30 dc, dc2tog, turn. 32 sts

    Row 6 (WS): 2 ch, dc2tog, 28 dc, dc2tog, turn. 30 sts

    Row 7 (RS): 2 ch, dc2tog, 26 dc, dc2tog, turn. 28 sts

    Row 8 (WS): 2 ch, dc2tog, 24 dc, dc2tog, turn. 26 sts

    Row 9 (RS): 2 ch, dc across, turn. 26 sts

    Row 10 (WS): 2 ch, 2 dc in the first st, 24 dc, 2 dc in the last st, turn. 28 sts

    Row 11 (RS): 2 ch, 2 dc in the first st, 26 dc, 2 dc in the last st, turn. 30 sts

    Row 12 (WS): 2 ch, 2 dc in the first st, 28 dc, 2 dc in the last st, turn. 32 sts

    Row 13 (RS): 2 ch, 2 dc in the first st, 30 dc, 2 dc in the last st, turn. 34 sts

    Row 14 (WS): 2 Ch3, 2 dc in the first st, 32 dc, 2 dc in the last st, turn. 36 sts

    Row 15 (RS): 2 ch, 2 dc in the first st, 34 dc, 2 dc in the last st, turn. 38 sts

    Row 16 (WS): 2 ch, 2 dc in the first st, 36 dc, 2 dc in the last st, turn. 40 sts

    Finishing

    Finish off leaving a long end for sewing.

    Fold the heel in half with right sides together, whip stitch down the edges of your work to join the diagonal edges together to form a heel. Weave in all ends and turn right-side out so that the sewn edge is inside the heel.

    mini granny squares

    Granny squares

    Create 15 squares in each of the five CCs. To see a short video tutorial visit my Instagram page here or you can find the full written tutorial here.

    Using the smaller hook and CC1 (CC2, CC3, CC4, CC5).

    Rnd 1: make a magic ring, 3 ch (counts as first 1 dc), 11 dc into the magic ring, join with a ss to the 3rd ch of the first 3-ch. 12 sts

    Rnd 2: Using MC1, join yarn to any st, 3 ch (counts as first 1 dc), [1 dc, 2 ch, 2 dc] into the same st to create a corner, (2 dc, [2 dc, 2 ch, 2 dc] into the next st) three times, 2 dc, join with a ss to the 3rd ch in the beginning 3-ch. 31sts, 4 2-ch spaces

    Finishing

    Weave in ends.

    Joining Granny squares

    I used the single crochet flat join, as outlined below, but you can use your preferred method of joining granny squares.

    Lay out your squares with the coloured dots in your desired pattern to help you with
    placement.

    TIP: once you know the order of the granny squares take a photo of the layout to refer back to. Alternatively, bind each column together using stitch markers so you can easily pack your project away without having to work out your layout again.

    I joined the columns first and then the rows, the row joins will neatly cover the ends of the
    column joins. Join the squares to the heel and toe when joining the rows.

    When joining the heel rows, I joined the underside of the heel section first and then joined the rest of the row, working around the top of the heel section.

    Single Crochet Flat Join

    You can find a free full flat join tutorial with photos here.

    Using the smaller hook and MC yarn, create a slip knot and place it over your hook.

    Step 1. Working into the corner stitch of the first granny square, make a single crochet. Insert your hook into the stitch, yarn over, pull up a loop (two loops on your hook), yarn over and pull through both loops on your hook to complete a single crochet.

    Step 2. Pull up the working loop on your hook to make it slightly longer. Remove your hook from the loop, insert your hook into the corresponding corner stitch of the second granny square going from front to back. Insert your hook back into the working loop and pull the loop through the stitch. Gently tighten the loop a little.

    Step 3. Repeat Steps 1 and 2 until all crochet squares in the column have been joined.

    Step 4. Repeat steps 1 to 4 until all columns have been joined.

    Step 5. Repeat steps 1 to 4 for all the rows. When working over a row join, work up to your last stitch before you get to the join. To ensure there are no gaps, work into the corner stitch of the first square, pull up a loop in the corner stitch of the second square. Work a single crochet into the opposite corner of the next square (working over the join) and pull up a loop in the corner stitch of the fourth square.

    You may find a slight hole at either end of the heel section, turn your project inside out and use a scrap piece of yarn to pull those edges together and neaten it all up.

    Finishing

    Weave in all ends.

    Top of the Stocking

    Now that all the granny squares are joined, you’re going to work along the top edge of the stocking to create a border.

    As you work around the stocking, work into each of the 8 sts of the granny squares and skip over all joins. You’ll be using the larger hook to make sure that the rows are not too tight.

    Using the larger hook, attach MC to any stitch at the back of the stocking.

    Row 1: 1 ch (does not count as a st here and throughout), sc around, invisible join but do not change colours. 80 sts

    Row 2: Repeat row 1. 80 sts

    Row 3: Using CC1, 1 ch, sc around, invisible join. 80 sts

    Row 4: Using CC2, 1 ch, sc around, invisible join. 80 sts

    Row 5: Using CC3, 1 ch, sc around, invisible join. 80 sts

    Row 6: Using CC4, 1 ch, sc around, invisible join. 80 sts

    Row 7: Using CC5, 1 ch, sc around, invisible join. 80 sts

    Row 8: Using MC, 1 ch, sc around, invisible join but do not change colours. 80 sts

    Row 9: 1 ch, sc around, invisible join but do not change colours. 80 sts

    R10: 1 ch, Reverse Crab Stitch around, invisible join. 80 sts

    Finishing

    Fasten off and weave in ends

    I hope you enjoy making these whimsical granny square Christmas stockings, and don’t forget to tag me in if you share on Instagram @gorgeouscrafts

    Until next time, happy crocheting!

    Heidi's signature

    Copyright of Gorgeous Crafts 2023. This pattern is for unlimited personal use. Do not reproduce or sell the pattern as your own. The pattern may not be copied in any way (print or digitally), in part or in full.  You may sell items that are made from this pattern but please credit gorgeouscrafts.co.uk and add a link back to this post where possible. Shop owners, if you wish to make a kit with yarn using this pattern, please request permission and copyright details from the designer before offering any kits for sale.

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