Looking for a stylish yet cosy project to add to your handmade wardrobe? This free poncho crochet pattern is the perfect balance of comfort and elegance, making it an ideal piece for autumn layering.
Ideal for those wintry walks or as an extra layer to watch the fireworks at your New Year’s Eve Party, this poncho is sure to delight.
The pattern uses the Catherine Wheel stitch in a contrasting colour combined with an optional silver thread to create an eye-catching illusion of glittering ‘stars’ running across your shoulders. With wrapped double crochet stitches creating a lacy effect between the stars.
This poncho showcases eye-catching detail while remaining simple enough for confident beginners looking for a challenge or intermediate crocheters wanting a relaxing yet rewarding project.
Using worsted or Aran weight yarn, it works up into a warm, yet stylish garment that you’ll reach for season after season. Whether you’re crafting your very first wearable or adding a new favorite to your collection, this poncho pattern is a must-try.
Disclosure: Some of the links below are affiliate links (*), meaning, at no additional cost to you, I will earn a small commission if you click through and make a purchase. As an Amazon Associate and an Awin Affiliate I earn from qualifying purchases.
Last year Furls Crochet kindly invited me to join their blog hop and I used their beautifully soft Wander Yarn to create my Ho Ho Ho Christmas Pillow Cover, so when I was offered the chance to take part in their blog hop this year I jumped at the chance! Not only did they provide the oh-so-squishy Wander Yarn, they also provided me with an absolutely STUNNING Furls hook – the Matte version of the Aura Hook – I LOVE it! Thank you so much Furls Crochet! Please do go visit their website and show them some love.
When I designed this poncho crochet pattern, I wanted to create something that felt both elegant and practical. Making it a great project for crocheters who want a wrap that works for everyday wear as well as one you could slip on for a special occasion. The stitch combination I chose keeps the fabric lightweight while still giving it beautiful texture and drape.
To achieve this effect, the pattern uses wrapped double crochet stitches (UK: wrapped treble crochet). This stitch is beginner-friendly, easy to work up, and creates a lacy look that prevents the poncho from feeling too heavy.
The standout feature of this poncho is the Catherine Wheel stitch. This stitch creates eye-catching circular motifs that resemble bursts of fireworks, adding interest and movement to the design. It’s an excellent choice if you want to try a stitch that looks intricate but is simple once you get into the rhythm.
Here in the UK, the Catherine Wheel is a type of firework that spins on a post, sending out brilliant showers of sparks in a circular motion. The stitch echoes that same sparkling effect in crochet. By using teal yarn for the background and silver yarn for the Catherine Wheel rows, this easy poncho pattern creates a shimmering “Chain of Stars” design that really stands out.
If we’ve never met before, I hope you’ll like it here. Want more crochet for your inbox? Or course you do! Which is why you should sign up to my crochet newsletter (plus you’ll get a freebie!).
About the Yarn
Furls Wander yarn* is a 100% premium acrylic, worsted weight (Aran) yarn and each 100g ball has approximately 109m / 120 yards. I’ve worked with many acrylic yarns and this one is so so soft! It’s one of those yarns that you just have to squish!
I chose Abyss, a beautiful teal blue, and Silver, a very pretty pale grey. I paired the silver with a metallic thread from Hobbii to give it a bit of sparkle. The metallic thread is called Glitter Deluxe by Go Handmade in shade 18120. I chose the 30g cone and that was more than enough!
Substituting the yarn
You can use any worsted weight yarn for this pattern. However, as we all know, not all worsted weight yarns are the same thickness. The key to making sure your chosen yarn will work is to find one that has a similar metres/yards per 100g. It doesn’t have to be exact but between 104 – 114m / 115 -125yrds will work fine.
About the Hook
I was very lucky as the lovely folks at Furls also sent me the most gorgeous Matte Aura Streamline metal, H (5mm)* hook to use on the project. This is my second Furls hook and while I still love the basic hooks that I normally use (these are the other hooks I have in my stash*) Furls hooks are most definitely next level hooks.
The Streamline metal hooks have a longer neck than I was originally used to and being metal they’re also slightly heavier; which I kinda like! The handles are ergonomically shaped so they’re easy on your hands. Being a matte metal hook, the Aura felt quite different to my polished Onyx Streamline Metal Hook*.
The polished Onyx hook glides beautifully through your work but it can be a little slippery. The Matte Aura hook felt much more secure in my hand! It has a tiny bit of texture to it which gives it a velvety feel. But that texture creates a small sound as you crochet. This surprised me and at first I did wonder if it could become an issue. However, you soon stop noticing it once you get going.
I highly recommend the Streamline hooks, whether it’s the matte or the polished version. If you’re sensitive to sound you may wish to try the polished metallic version. If you have issues with grip then the matte version might be better for you.
The best thing about the Aura Streamline Hooks is that there is a matte AND a polished version so you still get to have a pretty hook regardless! – you can check out the full range of Streamline Metal Hooks on the Furls website here*.
Looking for more free crochet patterns?
Here are some other patterns you might like:
Chain Of Stars Poncho Pattern
Skill Level
Suitable for intermediate crocheters and confident beginners looking for a challenge.
Supplies
Click the links below to see exactly which materials I used!
5 mm (H) hook
Scissors
Stitch Markers (I also have a selection from Cats Whiskers Cro Store and Joy to the Wool Co.)
Tapestry Needle
Furls Wander yarn* (100% Acrylic Yarn – Aran / #4 / Worsted; 109m / 120 yards per 100g
- 11 skeins of Abyss (MC) (1199m/1320yds)
- 4 skeins of Silver (CC) (436m/480yds)
Gauge
16 sts and 8.5 rows = 10cm / 4in worked across the crochet pattern.
Blocked Sizing
138cm / 54in long x 104cm / 41in wide when laid flat excluding the fringe.
Pattern Notes
- The poncho is made up of two panels which can be sewn together or joined using your favourite method to join two flat pieces together (I used the flat join, you can find a tutorial by clicking here).
- To make the poncho longer or shorter, create a foundation chain/cord in multiples of 10 plus 1 (or 10 plus 2 if using option 2 for the starting chain). Repeat the design as often as needed to create desired height.
- Change colours using your preferred method.
- The 3 ch at the start of a row counts as a st.
- For the CC rows I have held the CC yarn and the optional thread together. Work slowly and keep your tension loose to avoid stretching the thread. Knotting the two strands together before joining them to your work can help make working with 2 strands easier.
- Care should be taken to ensure the single crochet stripes match on each side when joining the two panels together.
- Join the two panels along the foundation chain/cord edges.
How to Read The Pattern
- When in the instructions you have a number followed by a stitch, eg 14 dc, this means you have to work 1dc into each of the next 14 sts.
- Instructions in brackets (….) or square brackets […] are worked as many times as indicated.
Abbreviations – UK Terms
*: Repeat instructions following a single * (asterisk) as directed
**: Repeat instructions between **’s as many times as noted after
[ ], { }: Repeat instruction between [ ]’s or { }’s as many times as noted after
CC: Contrasting Colour
ch: Chain
dc: Double Crochet
MC: Main Colour
rep: Repeat
r: Row
RS: Right Side
sk: Skip
sl st: Slip Stitch
sp: Space
st(s): Stitch(es)
tog: Together
tr: Treble Crochet
WS: Wrong Side
Wtr: Wrapped Treble Crochet
yo: Yarn Over Hook
Special Stitches – UK Terms
Foundation cord: Reserve a tail that is approx 2.5 times the length of cord you want to create (see pattern for measurements), make a slip knot with the working end of the yarn and insert your hook. *Wrap the tail yarn over the hook from front to back (two loops on your hook), yo with the working yarn and pull through both loops on your hook to create 1 st; Rep from * as many times as indicated to create your foundation cord.
Wrapped Treble Crochet: (please also see video tutorial on YouTube here) work 1 tr into each of the next 2 sts, yo, insert your hook from front to back, into the sp behind the two treble crochets you’ve just created, yo and pull up a loop (3 loops on your hook), yo pull through 2 loops, yo pull through 2 loops.
Catherine Wheel Stitch: Rows 12 to 15 use the Catherine Wheel stitch to create the texture. You may find it useful to watch my video tutorial on YouTube channel here.
Tr4(7)tog: Treble crochet 4(7) together (4 (7) treble crochets worked together across 4(7) sts). With one loop on your hook, yo, insert hook into stitch, yo and pull up a loop (3 loops on your hook), yo and pull through 2 loops (2 loops on your hook); *[yo, insert hook into the next st, yo and pull up a loop (4 loops on your hook); yo and pull through 2 loops (3 loops on your hook)] 3 (6) times – you should have 5 (8) loops on your hook – yo and pull through all loops, ch 1 to close the st.
Stacked double crochet: stacked double crochets replace the 3 ch at the start of some rows or the first of the four treble crochets in the tr4tog at the start of a row (please also see photo tutorial below). 1) At the start of the row, dc into the first stitch. 2) Then working into the side loop of the dc, 3) yo and pull up a loop (2 loops on your hook), 4) yo and pull through all loops on hook using as a replacement for the 3 ch; or for the tr4tog, continue with the remainder of the tr4tog instructions from *.
Free Written Pattern – UK terms
Get VIP Access to the Chain Of Stars Poncho Crochet Pattern
Opt for the VIP access by purchasing the AD-free pdf version from either my Etsy or Ravelry stores.
Make 2 panels
Create your foundation stitches by using ONE of the following two options:
Option 1 (RS): Using MC, reserve a 235cm / 53in tail and work 211 sts of foundation cord, turn. 211 sts – move onto Row 2.
Option 2 (RS): Using MC, 212 ch, working in the back bump of the starting chain and starting in the second chain from the hook, 211 dc, turn. 211 sts – move onto Row 2.
Rs 2 and 3: 3 ch (counts as 1 tr; alternatively replace 3 ch with 1 ch and a stacked dc), 210 tr, turn. 211 sts
R4 (WS): Join CC and optional thread; 1 ch (does not count as a st) 211 dc, turn. 211 sts
R5 (RS): Join MC; 3 ch (counts as 1 tr; alternatively replace 3 ch with 1 ch and a stacked dc), 210 tr, turn. 211 sts
R6 (WS): 3 ch (counts as 1 tr; alternatively replace 3 ch with 1 ch and a stacked dc), 210 tr, turn. 211 sts
R7 (RS): 3 ch (counts as 1 tr; alternatively replace 3 ch with 1 ch and a stacked dc), *3 Wtr, 1 tr; rep from * to the end of the row, turn. 211 sts
Rs 8 to 11: Rep R 7. 211 sts
R12 (WS): 3 ch (counts as 1 tr; alternatively replace 3 ch with 1 ch and a stacked dc), 3 tr into the same st, sk 3, 3 dc, *sk 3, 7 tr into the next st, sk 3, 3 dc; rep from * until 4 sts remain, sk 3, 4 tr in the last st, turn. 211 sts
R13 (RS): Join CC and optional thread; 1 ch (does not count as a st), 2 dc, *3 ch, tr7tog, 3 ch, 3dc; Rep from * until 9 sts remain, 3 ch, tr7tog, 3 ch, 2 dc, turn. 211 sts
R14 (WS): 1 ch (does not count as a st), 2 dc, *sk 3-ch, 7 tr into the ‘eye’ at the top of the tr7tog from the row below, sk 3-ch, 3 dc; Rep from * until 9 sts remain, sk 3-ch, 7 tr into the ‘eye’ of the tr7tog from the row below, sk 3-ch, 2 dc, turn. 211 sts
R15 (RS): Join MC, 2 ch (counts as 1 tr), tr3tog (alternatively replace all sts with 1 ch and a stacked dc/tr4tog – see tutorial below), *3 ch, 3dc, 3 ch, tr7tog; Rep from * until 7 sts remain, 3 ch, 3 dc, 3 ch, tr4tog, turn. 211 sts
R16 (WS): 3 ch (counts as 1 tr; alternatively replace 3 ch with 1 ch and a stacked dc), *1 Wtr into the 3-ch sp, 1 Wtr, 1 Wtr into the 3-ch sp, 1 tr into the ‘eye’ at the top of the tr7tog from the row below; Rep from * across, turn. 211 sts
Rs 17 to 19: 3 ch (counts as 1 tr; alternatively replace 3 ch with 1 ch and a stacked dc), *3 Wtr, 1 tr; rep from * to the end of the row, turn. 211 sts
Rs 20 to 36: Repeat Rs 12 to 19. 211 sts
R37 (RS): 3 ch (counts as 1 tr; alternatively replace 3 ch with 1 ch and a stacked dc), *3 Wtr, 1 tr; rep from * to the end of the row, turn. 211 sts
Rs 38 and 39: 3 ch (counts as 1 tr; alternatively replace 3 ch with 1 ch and a stacked dc), 210 tr, turn. 211 sts
R40 (WS): Join CC and optional thread; 1 ch (does not count as a st) 211 dc, turn. 211 sts
R41 (RS): Join MC; 3 ch (counts as 1 tr; alternatively replace 3 ch with 1 ch and a stacked dc), 210 tr, turn. 211 sts
R42 (WS): 3 ch (counts as 1 tr; alternatively replace 3 ch with 1 ch and a stacked dc), 210 tr, turn. 211 sts
Weave in all ends and block using your favourite method.
Join The Panels
Now that you have two panels you need to join them together to form the poncho.
Lay the panels down, with RS facing up and the starting chains together in the middle. You will join the starting chains together to form the back seam.
Measure 60cm (24in) from one end of the starting chains and place a stitch marker in one panel, this marks where your join will stop.
Use your favourite method to join two flat pieces together, stop once you reach the 60cm (24in) marker. I used the double crochet flat join, you can find a tutorial here. Or you may prefer to sew them together using the mattress stitch, you can find a tutorial here.
Now that you have two panels joined, check to make sure that you’re happy with how the poncho sits on you. Adjust the length of the back seam if needed.
Finish and weave in ends.
Adding A Fringe
Preparation
A fringe can be added along the front and back of the poncho.
First you will need to work a row of double crochets along the front and back edges. This will help to give your fringe a neater finish.
TIP: Keep your tension loose, try to keep a similar distance between each dc. I worked 2 dc around each treble crochet and 1 dc for each row ending in a dc. The stitch counts are not essential for this part so add more or less sts as you feel necessary.
With RS facing you and using MC: Join the yarn to the corner of one of the front edges, 1 ch, working across the end of each row, work approx. 75 dc evenly across.
Do the same with the other front edge.
Turn the poncho round to work along the back edge, with RS still facing you. Join the yarn as before but this time work approx 152 dc evenly across the back.
Weave in all ends.
The Fringe
Now that your edges are prepared you can add your fringe.
You can make your fringe longer or shorter than the method I describe below, but you will need to adjust the number of twists you add.
Starting with the back edge of the poncho. With the RS facing you and using CC: Join the yarn to the corner, *ss to the next st and pull up a long loop measuring approx 30cm (12in).
Remove your hook from the loop and replace it with your finger. Twist the yarn in a clockwise motion 40 times. Carefully replace your hook into the loop without losing any of the twists. Ss into the same st to secure the loop.
The loop should have twisted back onto itself and will look a bit messy, carefully uncurl it with your fingers, twisting anti-clockwise as you do and release. It should form a neater fringe. You may need to repeat this step a couple of times to work out all of the kinks.
Repeat from * in each st across.
Finish and weave in your ends.
If you find it easier to watch a video then my friend Tuula has created a tutorial on YouTube that shows you quite nicely how to create a twisted fringe.
Repeat for the two front edges.
I hope you’ve enjoyed making this poncho! Don’t forget to tag me @gorgeouscrafts when you share your makes on social media.
Thanks for visiting my blog!
Whether through sharing my content or making a purchase, your support enables me to keep creating and sharing free content for everyone’s enjoyment.
Your support is truly valued and greatly appreciated!
Follow Gorgeous Crafts on your favourite Social Media sites. Follow me on Facebook, Pinterest, TikTok and Instagram!
Register for my newsletter here to stay up-to-date on new patterns, tutorials and everything going on at Gorgeous Crafts!
Copyright of Gorgeous Crafts 2025. This pattern is for unlimited personal use. Do not reproduce or sell the pattern as your own. The pattern may not be copied in any way (print or digitally), in part or in full. You may sell items that are made from this pattern but please credit gorgeouscrafts.co.uk and add a link back to this post where possible. Shop owners, if you wish to make a kit with yarn using this pattern, please request permission and copyright details from the designer before offering any kits for sale.
Abbreviations – US terms
*: Repeat instructions following a single * (asterisk) as directed
**: Repeat instructions between **’s as many times as noted after
[ ], { }: Repeat instruction between [ ]’s or { }’s as many times as noted after
CC: Contrasting Colour
ch: Chain
dc: Double Crochet
MC: Main Colour
rep: Repeat
r: Row
RS: Right Side
sc: Single Crochet
sk: Skip
ss: Slip Stitch
sp: Space
st(s): Stitch(es)
tog: Together
Wdc: Wrapped Double Crochet
WS: Wrong Side
yo: Yarn Over Hook
Special Stitches – US terms
Foundation cord: Reserve a tail that is approx 2.5 times the length of cord you want to create (see pattern for measurements), make a slip knot with the working end of the yarn and insert your hook. *Wrap the tail yarn over the hook from front to back (two loops on your hook), yo with the working yarn and pull through both loops on your hook to create 1 st; Rep from * as many times as indicated to create your foundation cord.
Wrapped Double Crochet: (please also see a video tutorial on my YouTube channel here) work 1 dc into each of the next 2 sts, yo, insert your hook from front to back, into the sp behind the two double crochets you’ve just created, yo and pull up a loop (3 loops on your hook), yo pull through 2 loops, yo pull through 2 loops
Catherine Wheel Stitch: Rows 12 to 15 use the Catherine Wheel stitch to create the texture. You may find it useful to watch a video tutorial on my YouTube channel here.
Dc4(7)tog: Double crochet 4(7) together (4 (7) double crochets worked together across 4(7) sts). With one loop on your hook, yo, insert hook into stitch, yo and pull up a loop (3 loops on your hook), yo and pull through 2 loops (2 loops on your hook); *[yo, insert hook into the next st, yo and pull up a loop (4 loops on your hook); yo and pull through 2 loops (3 loops on your hook)] 3 (6) times – you should have 5 (8) loops on your hook – yo and pull through all loops, ch 1 to close the st.
Stacked single crochet: stacked single crochets replace the 3 ch at the start of some rows or the first of the four double crochets in the dc4tog at the start of a row (please also see photo tutorial below). 1) At the beginning of the row sc into the first stitch. 2) Next, working into the side loop of the sc, 3) yo and pull up a loop (2 loops on your hook), 4) yo and pull through all loops on hook using as a replacement for the 3 ch; or for the dc4tog, continue with the remainder of the dc4tog instructions from*.
Free Written Pattern – US terms
Get VIP Access to the Chain Of Stars Poncho Crochet Pattern
Opt for the VIP access by purchasing the AD-free pdf version from either my Etsy or Ravelry stores.
Make 2 panels.
First, create your foundation stitches by using ONE of the following two options:
Option 1 (RS): Using MC, reserve a 235cm / 53in tail and work 211 sts of foundation cord, turn. 211 sts – move onto Row 2.
Option 2 (RS): Using MC, 212 ch, working in the back bump of the starting chain and starting in the second chain from the hook, 211 sc, turn. 211 sts – move onto Row 2.
Rs 2 and 3: 3 ch (counts as 1 dc; alternatively replace 3 ch with 1 ch and a stacked sc), 210 dc, turn. 211 sts
R4 (WS): Join CC and optional thread; 1 ch (does not count as a st) 211 sc, turn. 211 sts
R5 (RS): Join MC; 3 ch (counts as 1 dc; alternatively replace 3 ch with 1 ch and a stacked sc), 210 dc, turn. 211 sts
R6 (WS): 3 ch (counts as 1 dc; alternatively replace 3 ch with 1 ch and a stacked sc), 210 dc, turn. 211 sts
R7 (RS): 3 ch (counts as 1 dc; alternatively replace 3 ch with 1 ch and a stacked sc), *3 Wdc, 1 dc; rep from * to the end of the row, turn. 211 sts
Rs 8 to 11: Rep R 7. 211 sts
R12 (WS): 3 ch (counts as 1 dc; alternatively replace 3 ch with 1 ch and a stacked sc), 3 dc into the same st, sk 3, 3 sc, *sk 3, 7 dc into the next st, sk 3, 3 sc; rep from * until 4 sts remain, sk 3, 4 dc in the last st, turn. 211 sts
R13 (RS): Join CC and optional thread; 1 ch (does not count as a st), 2 sc, *3 ch, dc7tog, 3 ch, 3sc; Rep from * until 9 sts remain, 3 ch, dc7tog, 3 ch, 2 sc, turn. 211 sts
R14 (WS): 1 ch (does not count as a st), 2 sc, *sk 3-ch, 7 dc into the ‘eye’ at the top of the dc7tog from the row below, sk 3-ch, 3 sc; Rep from * until 9 sts remain, sk 3-ch, 7 dc into the ‘eye’ of the dc7tog from the row below, sk 3-ch, 2 sc, turn. 211 sts
R15 (RS): Join MC, 2 ch (counts as 1 dc), dc3tog (alternatively replace all sts with 1 ch and a stacked sc/dc4tog – see tutorial below), *3 ch, 3sc, 3 ch, dc7tog; Rep from * until 7 sts remain, 3 ch, 3 sc, 3 ch, dc4tog, turn. 211 sts
R16 (WS): 3 ch (counts as 1 dc; alternatively replace 3 ch with 1 ch and a stacked sc), *1 Wdc into the 3-ch sp, 1 Wdc, 1 Wdc into the 3-ch sp, 1 dc into the ‘eye’ at the top of the dc7tog from the row below; Rep from * across, turn. 211 sts
Rs 17 to 19: 3 ch (counts as 1 dc; alternatively replace 3 ch with 1 ch and a stacked sc), *3 Wdc, 1 dc; rep from * to the end of the row, turn. 211 sts
Rs 20 to 36: Repeat Rs 12 to 19. 211 sts
R37 (RS): 3 ch (counts as 1 dc; alternatively replace 3 ch with 1 ch and a stacked sc), *3 Wdc, 1 dc; rep from * to the end of the row, turn. 211 sts
Rs 38 and 39: 3 ch (counts as 1 dc; alternatively replace 3 ch with 1 ch and a stacked sc), 210 dc, turn. 211 sts
R40 (WS): Join CC and optional thread; 1 ch (does not count as a st) 211 sc, turn. 211 sts
R41 (RS): Join MC; 3 ch (counts as 1 dc; alternatively replace 3 ch with 1 ch and a stacked sc), 210 dc, turn. 211 sts
R42 (WS): 3 ch (counts as 1 dc; alternatively replace 3 ch with 1 ch and a stacked sc), 210 dc, turn. 211 sts
Weave in all ends and block using your favourite method.
Join The Panels
Now that you have two panels you need to join them together to form the poncho. Lay the panels down, with RS facing up and the starting chains together in the middle. You will join the starting chains together to form the back seam. Measure 60cm (24in) from one end of the starting chains and place a stitch marker in one panel, this marks where your join will stop.
Use your favourite method to join two flat pieces together, stop once you reach the 60cm (24in) marker.
I used the single crochet flat join, you can find a tutorial on my website here (note this tutorial uses UK crochet terms where a US single crochet = UK double crochet).
Or you may prefer to sew them together using the mattress stitch, you can find a tutorial on my website here.
Now that you have two panels joined, check to make sure that you’re happy with how the phoncho sits on you. Adjust the length of the back seam if needed.
Finish and weave in ends.
Adding A Fringe
Preparation
A fringe can be added along the front and back of the poncho. First you will need to work a row of single crochets along the front and back edges. This will help to give your fringe a neater finish.
TIP: Keep your tension loose, try to keep a similar distance between each sc. I worked 2 sc around each double crochet and 1 sc for each row ending in a sc. The stitch counts are not essential for this part so add more or less sts as you feel necessary.
Now with RS facing you and using MC: Join the yarn to the corner of one of the front edges, 1 ch, working across the end of each row, work approx. 75 sc evenly across.
Do the same with the other front edge.
Turn the poncho round to work along the back edge, with RS still facing you. Join the yarn as before but this time work approx. 152 sc evenly across the back.
Weave in all ends.
The Fringe
Now that your edges are prepared you can add your fringe.
You can make your fringe longer or shorter than the method I describe below, but you will need to adjust the number of twists you add.
Starting with the back edge of the poncho.
With the RS facing you and using CC: Join the yarn to the corner, *ss to the next st and pull up a long loop measuring approx 30cm (12in).
Remove your hook from the loop and replace it with your finger. Twist the yarn in a clockwise motion 40 times.
Carefully replace your hook into the loop without losing any of the twists. Ss into the same st to secure the loop. The loop should have twisted back onto itself and will look a bit messy, carefully uncurl it with your fingers, twisting anti-clockwise as you do and release. It should form a neater fringe. You may need to repeat this step a couple of times to work out all of the kinks. Repeat from * in each st across.
Finish and weave in your ends.
If you find it easier to watch a video then my friend Tuula has created a tutorial on YouTube that shows you quite nicely how to create a twisted fringe.
Repeat for the two front edges.
I hope you’ve enjoyed making this poncho! Don’t forget to tag me @gorgeouscrafts when you share your makes on social media.
Thanks for visiting my blog!
Whether through sharing my content or making a purchase, your support, enables me to keep creating and sharing free content for everyone’s enjoyment.
Your support is truly valued and greatly appreciated!
Follow Gorgeous Crafts on your favourite Social Media sites. Follow me on Facebook, Pinterest, TikTok and Instagram!
Register for my newsletter here to stay up-to-date on new patterns, tutorials and everything going on at Gorgeous Crafts!
Copyright of Gorgeous Crafts 2025. This pattern is for unlimited personal use. Do not reproduce or sell the pattern as your own. The pattern may not be copied in any way (print or digitally), in part or in full. You may sell items that are made from this pattern but please credit gorgeouscrafts.co.uk and add a link back to this post where possible. Shop owners, if you wish to make a kit with yarn using this pattern, please request permission and copyright details from the designer before offering any kits for sale.
