If you’re looking for a fun Christmas pillow crochet pattern then this project is for you! This Christmas pillow makes a beautiful addition to your seasonal home decor. The free pattern will show you how to create a fun, contemporary Christmas design. And if you’ve never tried mosaic crochet before, this is a great introduction to this colour work technique! The crochet pattern comes with written instructions as well as a colour graph.


Are you looking to extend your Christmas decor to include your soft furnishings? It’s something my mum does every year and it always looks so pretty! I designed this mosaic crochet pillow to bring a bit of whimsy to your sofa during the holiday period.

Disclosure: Some of the links below are affiliate links (*), meaning, at no additional cost to you, I will earn a small commission if you click through and make a purchase. As an Amazon Associate and an Awin Affiliate I earn from qualifying purchases.

I’m a real fan of the traditional Christmas colours that remind me so much of my childhood. The Wander Yarn collection from Furls Crochet includes some amazing deep, rich Christmas colours that I absolutely fell in love with!

Ho Ho Ho Christmas pillow mosaic crochet pattern - right-handed version, pillow on a fluffy blanket propped up against a wall

That’s why, when Furls Crochet kindly invited me to join their 2024 Blog Hop with my Christmas pillow crochet pattern, I leapt at the chance to take part! Not only did they provide the beautifully soft Wander Yarn, they also provided me with my first Furls hook! Thank you Furls Crochet!

If we’ve never met before, I hope you’ll like it here. Want more crochet for your inbox ? Or course you do! Which is why you should sign up to my crochet newsletter.

About the Yarn

Furls Wander yarn* is a 100% premium acrylic, worsted weight (Aran) yarn and each 100g ball has approximately 109m / 120 yards. I’ve worked with many acrylic yarns and this one is so so soft! It’s one of those yarns that you just have to squish!

I chose Snow, Thatch (a gorgeous gold colour), Conifer, Velvet (a deep red), and Midnight.

However, the pillow would look just as spectacular in pastel or brighter shades that match your Christmas Decor. Alternatively, reverse the colours so you end up with a colourful pillow with white writing! Mosaic crochet patterns are also ideal for variegated yarns, my tip is to try to use contrasting colours.

About the Hook

I was very lucky as the lovely folks at Furls also sent me the most gorgeous Onyx Streamline metal G+ (4.5mm)* hook to use on the project. This is my first Furls hook so I can only compare it to the basic hooks that I normally use (these are the other hooks I have in my stash*).

The Streamline hooks have a longer neck than I’m used to and being metal it is also slightly heavier; which I kinda like! It also slides beautifully through my work. I highly recommend them. The Streamline hooks come in four different colours, Onyx, Silver, a gorgeous Rose Gold and they’ve just launched a fabulous Red version! – you can check them out on the Furls website here*.

Looking for more free crochet patterns?

Here are some other patterns you might like:

top left: woman in a blue coat wearing a red and white crochet cowl; top right: zig zag patterned crochet bauble; bottom left: scrap busting mini granny square Christmas Stocking; bottom right: person with a grey and blue crochet cowl draped over their arm
  1. Gretel Cowl
  2. Easy Christmas Tree Bauble
  3. Scrap Buster Christmas Stocking
  4. Country Garden Cowl

Ho Ho Ho Christmas Pillow Crochet Pattern – Right Handed Crocheters

As this pillow design includes wording, it requires different written instructions for both right- and left-handed crocheters. But don’t worry, I’ve got you! This post contains the full written instructions for right-handed crocheters in both UK and US terms. The full written instructions (in both UK and US terms) for left-handed crocheters can be found on this post.

Skill Level

This project is suitable for Intermediate crocheters but confident beginners would also be able to mange it because it essentially uses basic crochet stitches.

Materials

Click the links below to see exactly which materials I used!

4.5 mm hook*
40×40 cm (16×16 in) cushion insert*
Scissors*
Stitch Markers* (I also have a selection from Cats Whiskers Cro Store* and Joy to the Wool Co.*)
Tapestry Needle*
Zip (optional)
Pins (optional)
Wander Yarn* (100% Acrylic  Yarn – Worsted/ #4 / Medium; 109m / 120 yards per 100g):

  • 3 balls of Snow (MC) (245 m / 270 yrds);
  • 1 ball of Conifer (CC1) (60 m / 66 yrds);
  • 1 ball of Thatch (CC2) (60 m / 66 yrds);
  • 1 ball of Velvet (CC3) (60 m / 66 yrds);
  • 1 ball of Midnight (CC4) (60 m / 66 yrds);

I recommend any contrasting solid colours. But you can easily swap them out for multi-coloured, variegated yarn.

Gauge

19 sts and 19 rounds = 10cm/4in worked across the pattern.

Unblocked Sizing

38cm (15in) high x 38cm (15in) width.

Pattern Notes

How to Read The Pattern

When in the instructions you have a number followed by a stitch, eg 14 dc, this means you have to work 1dc into each of the next 14 sts.

Instructions in brackets (….) or square brackets […] are worked as many times as indicated.

Mosaic Crochet Pattern Notes

  • You can either follow the chart or written instructions.
  • Overlay mosaic crochet is created by working with two contrasting colours in alternating rounds. All rounds are worked on the right side of the project.
  • Unless otherwise indicated, ALL double crochet stitches are worked into the back loops of the stitch while treble crochet stitches are worked into the front loops of stitches from 2 rounds below. The treble crochet stitches are covering up the double crochet stitches from the previous round.
  • Start each round with a 1 ch (does not count as a st).
  • End each round with an invisible join. To avoid weaving in all those ends, do not cut the yarn when you finish a round. Simply change colours when working the invisible join, use the new colour to work the 1 ch, then continue with the next round.
  • Leave the previous colour at the join and pick it back up as needed.

How to read the chart

  • Read the chart from the bottom up and from right to left (left-handed instructions can be found here).
  • Numbers running along the bottom of the chart are the stitch count.  Numbers running up the sides are the round count.
  • Each round is worked in a single colour. The first and last squares of each round will indicate which colour to use in that round.
  • Change the colour of yarn with every round.
  • Each square represents one stitch. A blank square of any colour indicates a double crochet (US = single crochet) worked into the back loop; a square of any colour with an ‘X’ indicates a treble crochet (US = double crochet) worked into the front loop of the stitch two rounds down.
  • You should follow the symbols in the squares.  The colours in the middle of the chart are to be used as a guide only and should represent how your piece will look once that round has been completed. 
  • Do not change colours mid-round (unless the pattern calls for it)

(Jump to US Terms)

Chart

mosaic crochet chart for the Ho Ho Ho Christmas Pillow crochet pattern

Abbreviations UK Terms

*: Repeat instructions following a single * (asterisk) as directed
**: Repeat instructions between **’s as many times as noted after
[ ], { }: Repeat instruction between [ ]’s or { }’s as many times as noted after
CC: Contrasting Colour
ch: Chain
dc: Double Crochet
FLO: Front Loop Only
MC: Main Colour
rep: Repeat
rnd: Round
sk: Skip
sl st: Slip Stitch
sp: Space
st(s): Stitch(es)
tog: Together
tr: Treble Crochet
yo: Yarn Over Hook

Special Stitches – UK Terms

tr2d: A Treble crochet stitch worked into the front loops of the stitch of the same colour 2 rounds down. The tr2d stitch is always worked in front of the double crochet stitches in the round below. Leave dc st of the opposite colour behind each tr2d unworked. In the Chart this is represented by an X. Yo, insert hook into flo of st 2 rounds down, yo, pull up a loop, [yo, draw through 2 loops on hook] twice. Leave st behind tr2d unworked.

Invisible join: At the end of each round, remove hook from loop, insert hook under both loops of beg st from back to front, place loop back on hook and pull through st. Using new colour, yo and 1 ch. Tighten all loops, drop previous colour to wrong side. You can find a tutorial here.

Foundation cord: Reserve a tail that is approx 2.5 times the length of cord you want to create (see pattern for measurements), make a slip knot with the working end of the  yarn and insert your hook. *Wrap the tail yarn over the hook from front to back (two loops on your hook), yo with the working yarn and pull through both loops on your hook to create 1 st; Rep from * as many times as indicated to create your foundation cord.

Foundation cord in the round: When working in the round, once you have completed all the required sts,
and ensuring that your work is not twisted, bring the first st in the cord around to the front of your work and work an invisible join following the instructions below.

Free Written Pattern – UK terms

Get VIP Access to the Ho Ho Ho Christmas Pillow Crochet Pattern

You can opt for the VIP access by purchasing the AD-free pdf version from either my Etsy or Ravelry stores.

Create your foundation stitches and complete round 1 by using ONE of the following two options:

Option 1: Using MC, reserve a 4m / 158in tail and work 140 sts of foundation cord, invisible join being careful not to twist your work.  140 sts – move onto Rnd 2

Option 2: Using MC, 140 ch, sl st to join being careful not to twist your work, 1 ch (does not count as a st), working in the back loop of the starting chain, 140 dc, invisible join. 140 sts – move onto Rnd 2

Rnd 2: Using MC; 1 ch, 140 dc, invisible join. 140 sts

Rnd 3: Using CC1; 1 ch, *3 tr2d, 2 dc, 2 tr2d; Rep from * around, invisible join. 140 sts

Rnd 4: Using MC; 1 ch, *3 dc, 2 tr2d, 2 dc; Rep from * around, invisible join. 140 sts

Rnd 5: Using CC1; 1 ch, *2 tr2d, 4 dc, 1 tr2d; Rep from * around, invisible join. 140 sts

Rnd 6: Using MC; 1 ch, *2 dc, 4 tr2d, 1 dc; Rep from * around, invisible join. 140 sts

Rnd 7: Using CC1; 1 ch, *1 tr2d, 6 dc; Rep from * around, invisible join. 140 sts

Rnd 8: Using MC; 1 ch, *1 dc, 6 tr2d; Rep from * around, invisible join. 140 sts

Rnd 9: Using CC2; 1 ch, 140 dc, invisible join. 140 sts

Rnd 10: Using MC; 1 ch, *17 tr2d, 3 dc, 10 tr2d, 3 dc, 4 tr2d, 7 dc, [4 tr2d, 4 dc] twice, 10 tr2d; Rep from * around, invisible join. 140 sts

Rnd 11: Using CC2; 1 ch, *17 dc, 3 tr2d, 10 dc, 3 tr2d, 4 dc, 7 tr2d, [4 dc, 4 tr2d] twice, 10 dc; Rep from * around, invisible join. 140 sts

Crochet cushion cover laid flat on a wooden floor, pattern says Ho! Ho! Ho! with silhouetted Christmas trees

Rnd 12: Using MC; 1 ch, *1 dc, 10 tr2d, 15 dc, 4 tr2d, 3 dc, 3 tr2d, 9 dc, 3 tr2d, 4 dc, 4 tr2d, 4 dc, 9 tr2d, 1 dc; Rep from * around, invisible join. 140 sts

Rnd 13: Using CC2; 1 ch, *1 tr2d, 11 dc, 13 tr2d, 11 dc, [3 tr2d, 3 dc] twice, 4 tr2d, 4 dc, 4 tr2d, 9 dc, 1 tr2d; Rep from * around, invisible join. 140 sts

Rnd 14: Using MC; 1 ch, *2 dc, 10 tr2d, 13 dc, 6 tr2d, 1 dc, [3 tr2d, 4 dc] twice, 2 tr2d, 4 dc, 4 tr2d, 4 dc, 8 tr2d, 2 dc; Rep from * around, invisible join. 140 sts

Rnd 15: Using CC2; 1 ch, *2 tr2d, 11 dc, 11 tr2d, 7 dc, 1 tr2d, [3 dc, 4 tr2d] twice, 2 dc, 4 tr2d, 4 dc, 4 tr2d, 8 dc, 2 tr2d; Rep from * around, invisible join. 140 sts

Rnd 16: Using MC; 1 ch, *3 dc, 10 tr2d, 11 dc, 6 tr2d, 3 dc, 2 tr2d, 4 dc, 3 tr2d, 4 dc, 2 tr2d, 12 dc, 7 tr2d, 3 dc; Rep from * around, invisible join. 140 sts

Rnd 17: Using CC2; 1 ch, *3 tr2d, 11 dc, 9 tr2d, 7 dc, 3 tr2d, 2 dc, 4 tr2d, 3 dc, 4 tr2d, 2 dc, 12 tr2d, 7 dc, 3 tr2d; Rep from * around, invisible join. 140 sts

Rnd 18: Using MC; 1 ch, *4 dc, 10 tr2d, 9 dc, 7 tr2d, 3 dc, 2 tr2d, 4 dc, 3 tr2d, 4 dc, 2 tr2d, 12 dc, 6 tr2d, 4 dc; Rep from * around, invisible join. 140 sts 

Rnd 19: Using CC2; 1 ch, *3 tr2d, 12 dc, 7 tr2d, 8 dc, 3 tr2d, 2 dc, 4 tr2d, 3 dc, 4 tr2d, 2 dc, 4 tr2d, 4 dc, 4 tr2d, 7 dc, 3 tr2d; Rep from * around, invisible join. 140 sts

Rnd 20: Using MC; 1 ch, *3 dc, 12 tr2d, 7 dc, 7 tr2d, 5 dc, 1 tr2d, 4 dc, 3 tr2d, 4 dc, 2 tr2d, 4 dc, 4 tr2d, 4 dc, 7 tr2d, 3 dc; Rep from * around, invisible join. 140 sts

Rnd 21: Using CC2; 1 ch, *2 tr2d, 14 dc, 5 tr2d, 8 dc, 5 tr2d, 1 dc, 4 tr2d, 3 dc, 4 tr2d, 2 dc, 4 tr2d, 4 dc, 4 tr2d, 8 dc, 2 tr2d; Rep from * around, invisible join. 140 sts

Rnd 22: Using MC; 1 ch, *2 dc, 14 tr2d, 5 dc, 8 tr2d, 5 dc, 1 tr2d, 4 dc, 3 tr2d, 4 dc, 2 tr2d, 4 dc, 4 tr2d, 4 dc, 8 tr2d, 2dc; Rep from * around, invisible join. 140 sts

Rnd 23: Using CC2; 1 ch, *1 tr2d, 16 dc, 3 tr2d, 9 dc, 5 tr2d, 2 dc, [3 tr2d, 3 dc] twice, 4 tr2d, 4 dc, 4 tr2d, 9 dc, 1 tr2d; Rep from * around, invisible join. 140 sts

Rnd 24: Using MC; 1 ch, *1 dc, 16 tr2d, 3 dc, 9 tr2d, 5 dc, 2 tr2d, 9 dc, 3 tr2d, 4 dc, 4 tr2d, 4 dc, 9 tr2d, 1 dc; Rep from * around, invisible join. 140 sts

Rnd 25: Using CC2; 1 ch, *18 dc, 1 tr2d, 10 dc, 5 tr2d, 3 dc, 7 tr2d, [4 dc, 4 tr2d] twice, 10 dc; Rep from * around, invisible join. 140 sts

Rnd 26: Using MC; 1 ch, *18 tr2d, 1 dc, 10 tr2d, 5 dc, 3 tr2d, 7 dc, [4 tr2d, 4 dc] twice, 10 tr2d; Rep from * around, invisible join. 140 sts

Rnd 27: Using CC3; 1 ch, 140 dc, invisible join. 140 sts

Rnd 28: Using MC; 1 ch *12 tr2d, 3 dc, 4 tr2d, 7 dc, [4 tr2d, 4 dc] twice, 9 tr2d, 3 dc, 16 tr2d; Rep from * around, invisible join. 140 sts

Rnd 29: Using CC3; 1 ch, *12 dc, 3 tr2d, 4 dc, 7 tr2d, [4 dc, 4 tr2d] twice, 9 dc, 3 tr2d, 16 dc; Rep from * around, invisible join. 140 sts

Rnd 30: Using MC; 1 ch, *1 dc, 11 tr2d, 3 dc, 3 tr2d, 9 dc, 3 tr2d, 4 dc, 4 tr2d, 4 dc, 3 tr2d, 15 dc, 9 tr2d, 1 dc; Rep from * around, invisible join. 140 sts

Rnd 31: Using CC3; 1 ch, *1 tr2d, 17 dc, [3 tr2d, 3 dc] twice, [4 tr2d, 4 dc] twice, 13 tr2d, 10 dc, 1 tr2d; Rep from * around, invisible join. 140 sts

Rnd 32: Using MC; 1 ch, *2 dc, 11 tr2d, 1 dc, [3 tr2d, 4 dc] twice, 2 tr2d, [4dc, 4 tr2d] twice, 13 dc, 9 tr2d, 2 dc; Rep from * around, invisible join. 140 sts

Rnd 33: Using CC3; 1 ch, *2 tr2d, 11 dc, 1 tr2d, [3 dc, 4 tr2d] twice, 2 dc, 4 tr2d, 4 dc, 4 tr2d, 5 dc, 11 tr2d, 10 dc, 2 tr2d; Rep from * around, invisible join. 140 sts

Rnd 34: Using MC; 1 ch, *3 dc, 9 tr2d, 3 dc, 2 tr2d, 4 dc, 3 tr2d, 4 dc, 2 tr2d, 12 dc, 5 tr2d, 11 dc, 9 tr2d, 3 dc; Rep from * around, invisible join. 140 sts

Rnd 35: Using CC3; 1 ch, *3 tr2d, 9 dc, 3 tr2d, 2 dc, 4 tr2d, 3 dc, 4 tr2d, 2 dc, 12 tr2d, 6 dc, 9 tr2d, 10 dc, 3 tr2d; Rep from * around, invisible join. 140 sts

Rnd 36: Using MC; 1 ch, *4 dc, 8 tr2d, 3 dc, 2 tr2d, 4 dc, 3 tr2d, 4 dc, 2 tr2d, 12 dc, 6 tr2d, 9 dc, 9 tr2d, 4 dc; Rep from * around, invisible join. 140 sts

Rnd 37: Using CC3; 1 ch, *3 tr2d, 9 dc, 3 tr2d, 2 dc, 4 tr2d, 3 dc, 4 tr2d, 2 dc, 4 tr2d, 4 dc, 4 tr2d, 7 dc, 7 tr2d, 11 dc, 3 tr2d; Rep from * around, invisible join. 140 sts

Rnd 38: Using MC; 1 ch, *3 dc, 8 tr2d, 5 dc, 1 tr2d, 4 dc, 3 tr2d, 4 dc, 2 tr2d, 4 dc, 4 tr2d, 4 dc, 7 tr2d, 7 dc, 11 tr2d, 3 dc; Rep from * around, invisible join. 140 sts

Rnd 39: Using CC3; 1 ch, *2 tr2d, 9 dc, 5 tr2d, 1 dc, 4 tr2d, 3 dc, 4 tr2d, 2 dc, 4 tr2d, 4 dc, 4 tr2d, 8 dc, 5 tr2d, 13 dc, 2 tr2d; Rep from * around, invisible join. 140 sts

Rnd 40: Using MC; 1 ch, *2 dc, 9 tr2d, 5 dc, 1 tr2d, 4 dc, 3 tr2d, 4 dc, 2 tr2d, 4 dc, 4 tr2d, 4 dc, 8 tr2d, 5 dc, 13 tr2d, 2 dc; Rep from * around, invisible join. 140 sts

Rnd 41: Using CC3; 1 ch, *1 tr2d, 10 dc, 5 tr2d, 2 dc, [3 tr2d, 3 dc] twice, 4 tr2d, 4 dc, 4 tr2d, 9 dc, 3 tr2d, 15 dc, 1 tr2d; Rep from * around, invisible join. 140 sts

Rnd 42: Using MC; 1 ch, *1 dc, 10 tr2d, 5 dc, 2 tr2d, 9 dc, 3 tr2d, 4 dc, 4 tr2d, 4 dc, 9 tr2d, 3 dc, 15 tr2d, 1 dc; Rep from * around, invisible join. 140 sts

Rnd 43: Using CC3; 1 ch, *11 dc, 5 tr2d, 3 dc, 7 tr2d, [4 dc, 4 tr2d] twice, 10 dc, 1 tr2d, 17 dc; Rep from * around, invisible join. 140 sts

Rnd 44: Using MC; 1 ch, *11 tr2d, 5 dc, 3 tr2d, 7 dc, [4 tr2d, 4 dc] twice, 10 tr2d, 1 dc, 17 tr2d; Rep from * around, invisible join. 140 sts

text say if you like this you might like this with an image of various crochet ornaments on the left hand side of the banner

Rnd 45: Using CC4; 1 ch, 140 dc, invisible join. 140 sts

Rnds 46 to 62: Using MC and CC4 repeat rnds 10 to 26. 140 sts

Rnd 63: Using CC1; 1 ch, 140 dc, invisible join. 140 sts

Rnd 64: Using MC; 1 ch, *1 dc, 6 tr2d; Rep from * around, invisible join. 140 sts

Rnd 65: Using CC1; 1 ch, *1 tr2d, 6 dc; Rep from * around, invisible join. 140 sts

Rnd 66: Using MC; 1 ch, *2 dc, 4 tr2d, 1 dc; Rep from * around, invisible join. 140 sts

Rnd 67: Using CC1; 1 ch, *2 tr2d, 4 dc, 1 tr2d; Rep from * around, invisible join. 140 sts

Rnd 68: Using MC; 1 ch, *3 dc, 2 tr2d, 2 dc; Rep from * around, invisible join. 140 sts

Rnd 69: Using CC1; 1 ch, *3 tr2d, 2 dc, 2 tr2d; Rep from * around, invisible join. 140 sts

Finishing: Keep the long tail from your starting chain to allow you to sew the bottom end of the cushion shut. Weave in all other ends.

Block your work using your preferred method before closing the ends of the cushion.

Closing the top

To ensure a neat finish to your cushion the recommended method is to work the Mattress Stitch to close the top.  This will give you an invisible seam.

Mattress Stitch

For the mattress stitch you’ll be working through the middle of the Vs running along the top, catching a stitch from each side in turn. 

You can find a video tutorial here

Cut a piece of yarn approx 1.5 times the width of your work and thread it onto a tapestry needle.

Turn your work inside out and hold the two edges close together in one hand.

A) Starting at the invisible join, insert your needle into the middle of the first st (st 1) from the round, go under the V and bring it up through the middle of the second st of the round (see image 1).

B) Insert your needle into the middle of the corresponding st on the other side (st 140), pass it under the V and bring it up through the middle of the previous st on the same side (st 139 – see image 2)

C) Insert your needle back into the second stitch from step A) (st 2), where the yarn last came out, go under the V and up through the middle of the third stitch from the round (st 3 – see image 3).

step by step images showing how to work the mattress stitch - images 1 to 4

D) Repeat this with the corresponding stitches on the other side; insert into st 139, go under the V and bring the needle up through the middle of st 138 (see image 4).

E) Continue in this way all the way along (images 5 & 6), gently pulling the yarn tight after every 4 or 5 stitches (images 7 & 8).  Take care not to over tighten which might cause puckering.

step by step images showing how to work the mattress stitch - images 5 to 8

Finishing: When you reach the end of the seam, weave in the ends and turn right side out.

Close bottom – fully enclosed

If you want a fully enclosed pillow you simply need to insert your cushion pad into the cover, with right sides facing out and repeat the steps for closing the top opening.

Finishing: Weave in all ends 

Close bottom – zippered

I would suggest using a zip the same length as the opening. If it’s longer, mark on it where you want it to end so you don’t stretch the cover beyond that point.

A) Turn the cover inside out, and pin one side of the zip to the wrong side of the cover (see image 9).

B) Cut a piece of yarn the same colour as your last round to approx 1m in length, thread it onto a tapestry needle. Tie a knot in one end

step by step images showing how add a zip to your crocheted work - images 9 to 12

C) Using a basting stitch (tacking stitch) to sew the zip to one side of the cover (see image 10).  Make sure you work along the last round so your stitches are invisible.

D) Undo the zip and pin it to the other side of the cover (see image 11).  Repeat steps B and C to attach the zip to the other side. 

Finishing: weave in all ends, turn the cover right side out and insert your cushion pad.


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Copyright of Gorgeous Crafts 2024. This pattern is for unlimited personal use. Do not reproduce or sell the pattern as your own. The pattern may not be copied in any way (print or digitally), in part or in full.  You may sell items that are made from this pattern but please credit gorgeouscrafts.co.uk and add a link back to this post where possible. Shop owners, if you wish to make a kit with yarn using this pattern, please request permission and copyright details from the designer before offering any kits for sale.

free Christmas pillow crochet pattern

Chart

mosaic crochet chart for the Ho Ho Ho Christmas Pillow crochet pattern

Abbreviations – US terms

*: Repeat instructions following a single * (asterisk) as directed
**: Repeat instructions between **’s as many times as noted after
[ ], { }: Repeat instruction between [ ]’s or { }’s as many times as noted after
CC: Contrasting Colour
ch: Chain
dc: Double Crochet
FLO: Front Loop Only
MC: Main Colour
rep: Repeat
rnd: Round
sc: Single Crochet
sk: Skip
ss: Slip Stitch
sp: Space
st(s): Stitch(es)
tog: Together
yo: Yarn Over Hook

Special Stitches – US terms

dc2d: A double crochet stitch worked into the front loops of the stitch of the same colour 2 rounds down. The dc2d stitch is always worked in front of the single crochet stitches in the round below. Leave sc st of the opposite colour behind each dc2d unworked. In the Chart this is represented by an X. Yo, insert hook into flo of st 2 rounds down, yo, pull up a loop, [yo, draw through 2 loops on hook] twice. Leave st behind dc2d unworked.

Invisible join: At the end of each round, remove hook from loop, insert hook under both loops of beg st from back to front, place loop back on hook and pull through st. Using new colour, yo and 1 ch. Tighten all loops, drop previous colour to wrong side. You can find a tutorial here.

Foundation cord: Reserve a tail that is approx 2.5 times the length of cord you want to create (see pattern for measurements), make a slip knot with the working end of the yarn and insert your hook. *Wrap the tail yarn over the hook from front to back (two loops on your hook), yo with the working yarn and pull through both loops on your hook to create 1 st; Rep from * as many times as indicated to create your foundation cord.

Foundation cord in the round: When working in the round, once you have completed all the required sts, and ensuring that your work is not twisted, bring the first st in the cord around to the front of your work and work an invisible join following the instructions below.

Free Written Pattern – US terms

Get VIP Access to the Ho Ho Ho Christmas Pillow Crochet Pattern

You can opt for the VIP access by purchasing the AD-free pdf version from either my Etsy or Ravelry stores.

Create your foundation stitches by using ONE of the following two options:

Option 1: Using MC, reserve a 4m / 158in tail and work 140 sts of foundation cord, invisible join being careful not to twist your work.  140 sts – move onto Rnd 2

Option 2: Using MC, 140 ch, sl st to join being careful not to twist your work, 1 ch (does not count as a st), working in the back loop of the starting chain, 140 sc, invisible join. 140 sts – move onto Rnd 2.

Rnd 2: Using MC; 1 ch, 140 sc, invisible join. 140 sts

Rnd 3: Using CC1; 1 ch, *3 dc2d, 2 sc, 2 dc2d; Rep from * around, invisible join. 140 sts

Rnd 4: Using MC; 1 ch, *3 sc, 2 dc2d, 2 sc; Rep from * around, invisible join. 140 sts

Rnd 5: Using CC1; 1 ch, *2 dc2d, 4 sc, 1 dc2d; Rep from * around, invisible join. 140 sts

Rnd 6: Using MC; 1 ch, *2 sc, 4 dc2d, 1 sc; Rep from * around, invisible join. 140 sts

Rnd 7: Using CC1; 1 ch, *1 dc2d, 6 sc; Rep from * around, invisibile join. 140 sts

Rnd 8: Using MC; 1 ch, *1 sc, 6 dc2d; Rep from * around, invisible join. 140 sts

Rnd 9: Using CC2; 1 ch, 140 sc, invisible join. 140 sts

Rnd 10: Using MC; 1 ch, *17 dc2d, 3 sc, 10 dc2d, 3 sc, 4 dc2d, 7 sc, [4 dc2d, 4 sc] twice, 10 dc2d; Rep from * around, invisible join. 140 sts

Rnd 11: Using CC2; 1 ch, *17 sc, 3 dc2d, 10 sc, 3 dc2d, 4 sc, 7 dc2d, [4 sc, 4 dc2d] twice, 10 sc; Rep from * around, invisible join. 140 sts

Crochet cushion cover laid flat on a wooden floor, pattern says Ho! Ho! Ho! with silhouetted Christmas trees

Rnd 12: Using MC; 1 ch, *1 sc, 10 dc2d, 15 sc, 4 dc2d, 3 sc, 3 dc2d, 9 sc, 3 dc2d, 4 sc, 4 dc2d, 4 sc, 9 dc2d, 1 sc; Rep from * around, invisible join. 140 sts

Rnd 13: Using CC2; 1 ch, *1 dc2d, 11 sc, 13 dc2d, 11 sc, [3 dc2d, 3 sc] twice, 4 dc2d, 4 sc, 4 dc2d, 9 sc, 1 dc2d; Rep from * around, invisible join. 140 sts

Rnd 14: Using MC; 1 ch, *2 sc, 10 dc2d, 13 sc, 6 dc2d, 1 sc, [3 dc2d, 4 sc] twice, 2 dc2d, 4 sc, 4 dc2d, 4 sc, 8 dc2d, 2 sc; Rep from * around, invisible join. 140 sts

Rnd 15: Using CC2; 1 ch, *2 dc2d, 11 sc, 11 dc2d, 7 sc, 1 dc2d, [3 sc, 4 dc2d] twice, 2 sc, 4 dc2d, 4 sc, 4 dc2d, 8 sc, 2 dc2d; Rep from * around, invisible join. 140 sts

Rnd 16: Using MC; 1 ch, *3 sc,10 dc2d, 11 sc, 6 dc2d, 3 sc, 2 dc2d, 4 sc, 3 dc2d, 4 sc, 2 dc2d, 12 sc, 7 dc2d, 3 sc; Rep from * around, invisible join. 140 sts

Rnd 17: Using CC2; 1 ch, *3 dc2d, 11 sc, 9 dc2d, 7 sc, 3 dc2d, 2 sc, 4 dc2d, 3 sc, 4 dc2d, 2 sc, 12 dc2d, 7 sc, 3 dc2d; Rep from * around, invisible join. 140 sts

Rnd 18: Using MC; 1 ch, *4 sc, 10 dc2d, 9 sc, 7 dc2d, 3 sc, 2 dc2d, 4 sc, 3 dc2d, 4 sc, 2 dc2d, 12 sc, 6 dc2d, 4 sc; Rep from * around, invisible join. 140 sts 

Rnd 19: Using CC2; 1 ch, *3 dc2d, 12 sc, 7 dc2d, 8 sc, 3 dc2d, 2 sc, 4 dc2d, 3 sc, 4 dc2d, 2 sc, 4 dc2d, 4 sc, 4 dc2d, 7 sc, 3 dc2d; Rep from * around, invisible join. 140 sts

Rnd 20: Using MC; 1 ch, *3 sc, 12 dc2d, 7 sc, 7 dc2d, 5 sc, 1 dc2d, 4 sc, 3 dc2d, 4 sc, 2 dc2d, 4 sc, 4 dc2d, 4 sc, 7 dc2d, 3 sc; Rep from * around, invisible join. 140 sts

Rnd 21: Using CC2; 1 ch, *2 dc2d, 14 sc, 5 dc2d, 8 sc, 5 dc2d, 1 sc, 4 dc2d, 3 sc, 4 dc2d, 2 sc, 4 dc2d, 4 sc, 4 dc2d, 8 sc, 2 dc2d; Rep from * around, invisible join. 140 sts

Rnd 22: Using MC; 1 ch, *2 sc, 14 dc2d, 5 sc, 8 dc2d, 5 sc, 1 dc2d, 4 sc, 3 dc2d, 4 sc, 2 dc2d, 4 sc, 4 dc2d, 4 sc, 8 dc2d, 2sc; Rep from * around, invisible join. 140 sts

Rnd 23: Using CC2; 1 ch, *1 dc2d, 16 sc, 3 dc2d, 9 sc, 5 dc2d, 2 sc, [3 dc2d, 3 sc] twice, 4 dc2d, 4 sc, 4 dc2d, 9 sc, 1 dc2d; Rep from * around, invisible join. 140 sts

Rnd 24: Using MC; 1 ch, *1 sc, 16 dc2d, 3 sc, 9 dc2d, 5 sc, 2 dc2d, 9 sc, 3 dc2d, 4 sc, 4 dc2d, 4 sc, 9 dc2d, 1 sc; Rep from * around, invisible join. 140 sts

Rnd 25: Using CC2; 1 ch, *18 sc, 1 dc2d, 10 sc, 5 dc2d, 3 sc, 7 dc2d, [4 sc, 4 dc2d] twice, 10 sc; Rep from * around, invisible join. 140 sts

Rnd 26: Using MC; 1 ch, *18 dc2d, 1 sc, 10 dc2d, 5 sc, 3 dc2d, 7 sc, [4 dc2d, 4 sc] twice, 10 dc2d; Rep from * around, invisible join. 140 sts

Rnd 27: Using CC3; 1 ch, 140 sc, invisible join. 140 sts

Rnd 28: Using MC; 1 ch *12 dc2d, 3 sc, 4 dc2d, 7 sc, [4 dc2d, 4 sc] twice, 9 dc2d, 3 sc, 16 dc2d; Rep from * around, invisible join. 140 sts

Rnd 29: Using CC3; 1 ch, *12 sc, 3 dc2d, 4 sc, 7 dc2d, [4 sc, 4 dc2d] twice, 9 sc, 3 dc2d, 16 sc; Rep from * around, invisible join. 140 sts

Rnd 30: Using MC; 1 ch, *1 sc, 11 dc2d, 3 sc, 3 dc2d, 9 sc, 3 dc2d, 4 sc, 4 dc2d, 4 sc, 3 dc2d, 15 sc, 9 dc2d, 1 sc; Rep from * around, invisible join. 140 sts

Rnd 31: Using CC3; 1 ch, *1 dc2d, 17 sc, [3 dc2d, 3 sc] twice, [4 dc2d, 4 sc] twice, 13 dc2d, 10 sc, 1 dc2d; Rep from * around, invisible join. 140 sts

Rnd 32: Using MC; 1 ch, *2 sc, 11 dc2d, 1 sc, [3 dc2d, 4 sc] twice, 2 dc2d, [4sc, 4 dc2d] twice, 13 sc, 9 dc2d, 2 sc; Rep from * around, invisible join. 140 sts

Rnd 33: Using CC3; 1 ch, *2 dc2d, 11 sc, 1 dc2d, [3 sc, 4 dc2d] twice, 2 sc, 4 dc2d, 4 sc, 4 dc2d, 5 sc, 11 dc2d, 10 sc, 2 dc2d; Rep from * around, invisible join. 140 sts

Rnd 34: Using MC; 1 ch, *3 sc, 9 dc2d, 3 sc, 2 dc2d, 4 sc, 3 dc2d, 4 sc, 2 dc2d, 12 sc, 5 dc2d, 11 sc, 9 dc2d, 3 sc; Rep from * around, invisible join. 140 sts

Rnd 35: Using CC3; 1 ch, *3 dc2d, 9 sc, 3 dc2d, 2 sc, 4 dc2d, 3 sc, 4 dc2d, 2 sc, 12 dc2d, 6 sc, 9 dc2d, 10 sc, 3 dc2d; Rep from * around, invisible join. 140 sts

Rnd 36: Using MC; 1 ch, *4 sc, 8 dc2d, 3 sc, 2 dc2d, 4 sc, 3 dc2d, 4 sc, 2 dc2d, 12 sc, 6 dc2d, 9 sc, 9 dc2d, 4 sc; Rep from * around, invisible join. 140 sts

Rnd 37: Using CC3; 1 ch, *3 dc2d, 9 sc, 3 dc2d, 2 sc, 4 dc2d, 3 sc, 4 dc2d, 2 sc, 4 dc2d, 4 sc, 4 dc2d, 7 sc, 7 dc2d, 11 sc, 3 dc2d; Rep from * around, invisible join. 140 sts

Rnd 38: Using MC; 1 ch, *3 sc, 8 dc2d, 5 sc, 1 dc2d, 4 sc, 3 dc2d, 4 sc, 2 dc2d, 4 sc, 4 dc2d, 4 sc, 7 dc2d, 7 sc, 11 dc2d, 3 sc; Rep from * around, invisible join. 140 sts

Rnd 39: Using CC3; 1 ch, *2 dc2d, 9 sc, 5 dc2d, 1 sc, 4 dc2d, 3 sc, 4 dc2d, 2 sc, 4 dc2d, 4 sc, 4 dc2d, 8 sc, 5 dc2d, 13 sc, 2 dc2d; Rep from * around, invisible join. 140 sts

Rnd 40: Using MC; 1 ch, *2 sc, 9 dc2d, 5 sc, 1 dc2d, 4 sc, 3 dc2d, 4 sc, 2 dc2d, 4 sc, 4 dc2d, 4 sc, 8 dc2d, 5 sc, 13 dc2d, 2 sc; Rep from * around, invisible join. 140 sts

Rnd 41: Using CC3; 1 ch, *1 dc2d, 10 sc, 5 dc2d, 2 sc, [3 dc2d, 3 sc] twice, 4 dc2d, 4 sc, 4 dc2d, 9 sc, 3 dc2d, 15 sc, 1 dc2d; Rep from * around, invisible join. 140 sts

Rnd 42: Using MC; 1 ch, *1 sc, 10 dc2d, 5 sc, 2 dc2d, 9 sc, 3 dc2d, 4 sc, 4 dc2d, 4 sc, 9 dc2d, 3 sc, 15 dc2d, 1 sc; Rep from * around, invisible join. 140 sts

Rnd 43: Using CC3; 1 ch, *11 sc, 5 dc2d, 3 sc, 7 dc2d, [4 sc, 4 dc2d] twice, 10 sc, 1 dc2d, 17 sc; Rep from * around, invisible join. 140 sts

image of a reddish brown crochet cowl with a white, fair-isle style pattern on it; text reads Like this? you might also like this

Rnd 44: Using MC; 1 ch, *11 dc2d, 5 sc, 3 dc2d, 7 sc, [4 dc2d, 4 sc] twice, 10 dc2d, 1 sc, 17 dc2d; Rep from * around, invisible join. 140 sts

Rnd 45: Using CC4; 1 ch, 140 sc, invisible join. 140 sts

Rnds 46 to 62: Using MC and CC4 repeat rnds 10 to 26. 140 sts

Rnd 63: Using CC1; 1 ch, 140 sc, invisible join. 140 sts

Rnd 64: Using MC; 1 ch, *1 sc, 6 dc2d; Rep from * around, invisible join. 140 sts

Rnd 65: Using CC1; 1 ch, *1 dc2d, 6 sc; Rep from * around, invisible join. 140 sts

Rnd 66: Using MC; 1 ch, *2 sc, 4 dc2d, 1 sc; Rep from * around, invisible join. 140 sts

Rnd 67: Using CC1; 1 ch, *2 dc2d, 4 sc, 1 dc2d; Rep from * around, invisible join. 140 sts

Rnd 68: Using MC; 1 ch, *3 sc, 2 dc2d, 2 sc; Rep from * around, invisible join. 140 sts

Rnd 69: Using CC1; 1 ch, *3 dc2d, 2 sc, 2 dc2d; Rep from * around, invisible join. 140 sts

Finishing: Keep the long tail from your starting chain to allow you to sew the bottom end of the cushion shut. Weave in all other ends.

Block your work using your preferred method before closing the ends of the cushion.

Closing the top

To ensure a neat finish to your pillow the recommended method is to work the Mattress Stitch to close the top.  This will give you an invisible seam.

Mattress Stitch

For the mattress stitch you’ll be working through the middle of the Vs running along the top, catching a stitch from each side in turn. 

You can find a video tutorial here

Cut a piece of yarn approx 1.5 times the width of your work and thread it onto a tapestry needle.

Turn your work inside out and hold the two edges close together in one hand.

A) Starting at the invisible join, insert your needle into the middle of the first st (st 1) from the round, go under the V and bring it up through the middle of the second st of the round (see image 1).

B) Insert your needle into the middle of the corresponding st on the other side (st 140), pass it under the V and bring it up through the middle of the previous st on the same side (st 139 – see image 2)

step by step images showing how to work the mattress stitch - images 1 to 4

C) Insert your needle back into the second stitch from step A) (st 2), where the yarn last came out, go under the V and up through the middle of the third stitch from the round (st 3 – see image 3).

D) Repeat this with the corresponding stitches on the other side; insert into st 139, go under the V and bring the needle  up through the middle of st 138 (see image 4).

E) Continue in this way all the way along (images 5 & 6), gently pulling the yarn tight after every 4 or 5 stitches (images 7 & 8).  Take care not to over tighten which might cause puckering.

step by step images showing how to work the mattress stitch - images 5 to 8

Finishing: When you reach the end of the seam, weave in the ends and turn right side out.

Close bottom – fully enclosed

If you want a fully enclosed pillow you simply need to insert your pillow pad into the cover, with right sides facing out and repeat the steps for closing the top opening.

Finishing: Weave in all ends 

Close bottom – zippered

I would suggest using a zip the same length as the opening. If it’s longer, mark on it where you want it to end so you don’t stretch the cover beyond that point.

A) Turn the cover inside out, and pin one side of the zip to the wrong side of the cover (see image 9).

B) Cut a piece of yarn the same colour as your last round to approx 1m in length, thread it onto a tapestry needle. Tie a knot in one end.

step by step images showing how add a zip to your crocheted work - images 9 to 12

C) Using a basting stitch (tacking stitch) to sew the zip to one side of the cover (see image 10).  Make sure you work along the last round so your stitches are invisible.

D) Undo the zip and pin it to the other side of the cover (see image 11).  Repeat steps B and C to attach the zip to the other side. 

Finishing: weave in all ends, turn cover right side out and insert your pillow pad.


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Copyright of Gorgeous Crafts 2024. This pattern is for unlimited personal use. Do not reproduce or sell the pattern as your own. The pattern may not be copied in any way (print or digitally), in part or in full.  You may sell items that are made from this pattern but please credit gorgeouscrafts.co.uk and add a link back to this post where possible. Shop owners, if you wish to make a kit with yarn using this pattern, please request permission and copyright details from the designer before offering any kits for sale.

free Christmas pillow crochet pattern

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