Easy Mosaic Crochet Pattern

Ready to try something new with your crochet? The Easy Mosaic Crochet Cowl is a great way to dip your toes into the world of overlay mosaic crochet without feeling overwhelmed. I’ve  designed it with confident beginners in mind and is the perfect next step in your crochet journey.

This free pattern is worked in-the-round and uses two easy crochet stitches—if you’ve got the crochet basics down and you’re looking for a bit of a challenge, this one’s for you! 

The best part? It uses Aran weight yarn, so it works up nice and fast—making it a satisfying weekend project or a thoughtful handmade gift. Whether you’re new to colorwork or just looking for a relaxing pattern with eye-catching results, this cowl is an easy yet rewarding project in one fun-to-make accessory.

Let’s Make A Snuggly Cowl

I totally LOVE this easy way of creating a NO TAILS and NO ENVELOPE BORDER mosaic crochet cowl! This method makes creating overlay mosaic crochet projects so much more fun. Scroll down for the free pattern and chart in both UK and US crochet terms! Happy crocheting!

Get The PDF Pattern Here

If you prefer an ad-free version to print out, you can grab a copy from either my Etsy or Ravelry shops. Please click on the buttons below:

Learn How To Make The Easy Mosaic Crochet Cowl

If this is your first time trying overlay mosaic crochet then you’re going to love this pattern! Surprisingly, overlay mosaic crochet is truly a very simple technique. It uses basic crochet stitches with two contrasting colours to create eye-catching designs. And the best bit? You NEVER have to change colours mid-round! Making it a very relaxing and fun way to learn mosaic crochet.

Difficulty

Although I often label my mosaic crochet patterns as ‘intermediate’, they are also perfectly suitable for beginners. If you can work basic crochet stitches, then you can do overlay mosaic crochet – it really is that easy. You’ll soon have a cozy cowl that is easily customisable with your favourite colours.

Need pattern support? Head on over to my Facebook group Gorgeous Crafts Crocheters and drop your question there. Love this pattern? Get notified of all new pattern releases by becoming one of my VIPs (my newsletter), sign up here. 

Looking for more free crochet patterns?

Here are some other patterns you might like:

1. Gretel Cowl
2. Puff Stitch Flower
3. Spring Daffodil Bunting
4. Country Garden Cowl

About the Yarn

Disclosure: Some of the links below are affiliate links (*), meaning, at no additional cost to you, I will earn a small commission if you click through and make a purchase. As an Amazon Associate and an Awin Affiliate I earn from qualifying purchases.

As it happens, I mostly used scrap yarn from my stash for this project. Because it uses Aran (worsted) weight yarn it doesn’t need much. The exception was the gold, I bought that specially to give the cowl a bit of a zing!

The dark pink and the yellow were Stylecraft Special Aran* which comes in 50 fabulous shades. And the pale pink was Stylecraft Special For Baby Aran*, there are 6 delightfully pastel shades to choose from.

Yarn Substitutions

I would recommend using any Aran/Worsted (4) weight yarn that is similar in metres or yards per 100g as the brands I’ve used. But, to be honest, it doesn’t matter if it’s a little off. The cowl is easily customisable and you could always use a larger or smaller hook if needed.

Pattern:

Materials and Notions

Click the links below to see exactly which materials I used!

4.5 mm / G+ hook*
Scissors
Stitch Markers (I also have a selection from Cats Whiskers Cro Store and Joy to the Wool Co.)
Tapestry Needle
Stylecraft Special Aran* (100% Acrylic Yarn – Aran / #4 / Worsted; 196m / 214 yards per 100g)

• 1 skein of 1083 Pomegranate (MC): I used 30m / 27yds
• 1 skein of 1079 Gold (CC2): I used 26m/24 yds

Stylecraft Special For Baby Aran* (100% Acrylic Yarn – Aran / #4 / Worsted; 184m / 201 yards per 100g)

• 1 skein of 1230 Pink (CC1): I used 26m / 23yds

Gauge

18 sts and 19 rows = 10cm / 4in worked across the mosaic crochet pattern in the round.

Unblocked Sizing

19cm / 7.5in high x 32cm / 13in across when laid flat

Pattern Notes

To increase the circumference of the neck warmer, increase the number of foundation stitches by multiples of 18.

How to Read The Pattern

When in the instructions you have a number followed by a stitch, eg 14 dc, this means you have to work 1dc into each of the next 14 sts.

Instructions in brackets (….) or square brackets […] are worked as many times as indicated.

Mosaic Crochet Pattern Notes – UK (US)

• You can either follow the chart or written instructions.
• Overlay mosaic crochet is created by working with two contrasting colours in alternating rounds. All rounds are worked on the right side of the project.
• Unless otherwise indicated, ALL double crochet (US = single crochet) stitches are worked into the back loops of the stitch while treble crochet (US = double crochet) stitches are worked into the front loops of stitches from 2 rounds below. The treble crochet stitches are covering up the double crochet stitches from the previous round.
• Start each round with a 1 chain (does not count as a stitch).
• End each round with an invisible join. To avoid weaving in all those ends, do not cut the yarn when you finish a round. Simply change colours when working the invisible join, use the new colour to work the 1 chain, then continue with the next round.
• Leave the previous colour at the join and pick it back up as needed.

How to read the chart

• Read the chart from the bottom up.
• Numbers running along the bottom and top of the chart are the stitch count.  Numbers running up the sides are the round count.
• Right-handed crocheters should read the chart from right to left, following the stitch numbers along the bottom. Left-handed crocheters should read the chart from left to right following the stitch numbers along the top.
• Each round is worked in a single colour. The first and last squares of each round will indicate which colour to use in that round.
• Change the colour of yarn with every round.
• Each square represents one stitch. A blank square of any colour indicates a double crochet (US = single crochet) worked into the back loop; a square of any colour with an ‘X’ indicates a treble crochet (US = double crochet) worked into the front loop of the stitch two rounds down.
• You should follow the symbols in the squares.  The colours in the middle of the chart are to be used as a guide only and should represent how your piece will look once that round has been completed. 
• Do not change colours mid-round (unless the pattern calls for it)

Chart

Jump to US Terms

Abbreviations – UK Terms

*: Repeat instructions following a single * (asterisk) as directed
**: Repeat instructions between **’s as many times as noted after
[ ], { }: Repeat instruction between [ ]’s or { }’s as many times as noted after
Bptr: Back post treble crochet
CC: Contrasting Colour
ch: Chain
dc: Double Crochet
FLO: Front Loop Only
Fptr: front post treble crochet
MC: Main Colour
rep: Repeat
rnd: Round
sk: Skip
sl st: Slip Stitch
sp: Space
st(s): Stitch(es)
tog: Together
tr: Treble Crochet
yo: Yarn Over Hook

Special Stitches – UK Terms

tr2d: A Treble crochet stitch worked into the front loops of the stitch of the same colour 2 rounds down. The tr2d stitch is always worked in front of the double crochet stitches in the round below. Leave dc st of the opposite colour behind each tr2d unworked. In the Chart this is represented by an X. Yo, insert hook into flo of st 2 rounds down, yo, pull up a loop, [yo, draw through 2 loops on hook] twice. Leave st behind tr2d unworked.

Invisible join: At the end of each round, remove hook from loop, insert hook under both loops of beg st from back to front, place loop back on hook and pull through st. Using new colour, yo and 1 ch. Tighten all loops, drop previous colour to wrong side. You can find a tutorial here.

Foundation cord: Reserve a tail that is approx 2.5 times the length of cord you want to create (see pattern for measurements), make a slip knot with the working end of the  yarn and insert your hook. *Wrap the tail yarn over the hook from front to back (two loops on your hook), yo with the working yarn and pull through both loops on your hook to create 1 st; Rep from * as many times as indicated to create your foundation cord.

Foundation cord in the round: When working in the round, once you have completed all the required sts,
and ensuring that your work is not twisted, bring the first st in the cord around to the front of your work and work an invisible join following the instructions below.

Fptr: Yo, insert your hook from front to back to front around the post of the next stitch, yo, pull up a loop, yo, pull thru 2 loops on your hook, yo, pull thru remaining 2 loops on your hook.

Bptr: Yo, insert your hook from back to front to back around the post of the next stitch, yo, pull up a loop, yo, pull thru 2 loops on your hook, yo, pull thru remaining two loops on your hook.

Free Written Pattern – UK terms

First, create your foundation stitches and complete round 1 by using ONE of the following two options:

Option 1: Using MC, reserve a 1.5m / 60in tail and work 108 sts of foundation cord, invisible join being careful not to twist your work.  108 sts – move onto Rnd 2

Option 2: Using MC, 108 ch, sl st to join being careful not to twist your work, 1 ch (does not count as a st), working in the back loop of the starting chain, 108 dc, invisible join. 108 sts – move onto Rnd 2

Rnd 2: Using CC; 1 ch, 108 dc, invisible join. 108 sts

Rnd 3: Using MC; 1 ch, *1 tr2d, 1 dc; rep from * around, invisible join. 108 sts

Rnd 4: Using CC; 1 ch, 108 dc, invisible join. 108 sts

Rnd 5: Using MC; 1 ch, *1 tr2d, 3 dc, (1 tr2d, 1 dc) 6 times, 2 dc; rep from * around, invisible join. 108 sts

Rnd 6: Using CC; 1 ch, *(3 dc, 1 tr2d) 4 times, 2 dc; rep from * around, invisible join. 108 sts

Rnd 7: Using MC; 1 ch, *(1 tr2d, 1 dc) twice, (2 dc, 1 tr2d) 3 times, 3 dc, 1 tr2d, 1 dc; rep from * around, invisible join. 108 sts

Rnd 8: Using CC; 1 ch, *1 dc, 1 tr2d, 3 dc, 1 tr2d, 2 dc, 1 tr2d, 1 dc, 1 tr2d, 2 dc, 1 tr2d, 3 dc, 1 tr2d; rep from * around, invisible join. 108 sts

Rnd 9: Using MC; 1 ch, *(1 tr2d, 3 dc, 1 tr2d, 2 dc) twice, 1 tr2d, 3 dc; rep from * around, invisible join. 108 sts

Rnd 10: Using CC; 1 ch, *3 dc, (1 tr2d, 2 dc) 5 times; rep from* around, invisible join. 108 sts

Rnd 11: Using MC; 1 ch, *(2 dc, 1 tr2d) 3 times, (1 dc, 1 tr2d, 1 dc) 3 times; rep from * around, invisible join. 108 sts

Rnd 12: Using CC; 1 ch, *1 dc, 1 tr2d, 15 dc, 1 tr2d; rep from * around, invisible join. 108 sts

Rnd 13: Using MC; 1 ch, *(2 dc, 1 tr2d) 3 times, (1 dc, 1 tr2d, 1 dc) 3 times; rep from * around, invisible join. 108 sts

Rnd 14: Using CC; 1 ch, *3 dc, (1 tr2d, 2 dc) 5 times; rep from around, invisible join. 108 sts

Rnd 15: Using MC; 1 ch, *(1 tr2d, 3 dc, 1 tr2d, 2 dc) twice, 1 tr2d, 3 dc; rep from * around, invisible join. 108 sts

Rnd 16: Using CC; 1 ch, *(1 dc, 1 tr2d, 2 dc) twice, (1 tr2d, 1 dc) twice, 1 dc, 1 tr2d, 3 dc, 1 tr2d; rep from * around, invisible join. 108 sts

Rnd 17: Using MC; 1 ch, *(1 tr2d, 1 dc) twice, (2 dc, 1 tr2d) 3 times, 3 dc, 1 tr2d, 1 dc; rep from * around, invisible join. 108 sts

Rnd 18: Using CC; 1 ch, *(3 dc, 1 tr2d) 4 times, 2 dc; rep from * around, invisible join. 108 sts

Rnd 19: Using MC; 1 ch, *1 tr2d, 3 dc, (1 tr2d, 1dc) 6 times, 2 dc; rep from * around, invisible join. 108 sts

Rnd 20: Using CC; 1 ch, *108 dc, invisible join. 108 sts

Rnd 21: Using MC; 1 ch, *(1 tr2d, 1 dc); rep from * around, invisible join. 108 sts

Break yarn and weave in ends. Then continue to top cuff instructions.

Top Cuff

Working through both loops, join with CC2.

Rnd 1: 1 ch (does not count as a st here or throughout), 108 dc, invisible join. 108 sts

Rnd 2: 2 ch, (1 Fptr, 1 Bptr) around, invisible join. 108 sts

Rnds 3-5: Repeat Rnd 2. 108 sts

Finish and weave in ends.

Bottom Cuff

Now flip the neck warmer over so the starting chain is facing up and the colourwork motifs are upside down. 

You’ll now be working into the loops on bottom of the foundation cord or through the remaining loops of the foundation chain.

Rnd 1: Join using MC, working through both loops, 1 ch (does not count as a st here or throughout), 108 dc, invisible join. 108 sts

Rnd 2: 2 ch, (1 Fptr, 1 Bptr) around, invisible join. 108 sts

Rnds 3 – 5: Repeat Rnd 2. 108 sts

Finish, weave in ends and block to shape.

Congrats! You’re finished!

I hope you enjoyed the pattern and thanks for being here!

Thanks for visiting my blog!

Whether through sharing my content or making a purchase, your support enables me to keep creating and sharing free content for everyone’s enjoyment.

Your support is truly valued and greatly appreciated!

Follow Gorgeous Crafts on your favourite Social Media sites. Follow me on Facebook, Pinterest, TikTok and Instagram!

Register for my newsletter here to stay up-to-date on new patterns, tutorials and everything going on at Gorgeous Crafts!

Copyright of Gorgeous Crafts 2025. This pattern is for unlimited personal use. Do not reproduce or sell the pattern as your own. The pattern may not be copied in any way (print or digitally), in part or in full.  You may sell items that are made from this pattern but please credit gorgeouscrafts.co.uk and add a link back to this post where possible. Shop owners, if you wish to make a kit with yarn using this pattern, please request permission and copyright details from the designer before offering any kits for sale.

Abbreviations – US terms

*: Repeat instructions following a single * (asterisk) as directed
**: Repeat instructions between **’s as many times as noted after
[ ], { }: Repeat instruction between [ ]’s or { }’s as many times as noted after
Bpdc: Back post double crochet
CC: Contrasting Colour
ch: Chain
dc: Double Crochet
FLO: Front Loop Only
Fpdc: Front post double crochet
MC: Main Colour
rep: Repeat
rnd: Round
sc: Single Crochet
sk: Skip
ss: Slip Stitch
sp: Space
st(s): Stitch(es)
tog: Together
yo: Yarn Over Hook

Special Stitches – US terms

dc2d: A double crochet stitch worked into the front loops of the stitch of the same colour 2 rounds down. The dc2d stitch is always worked in front of the single crochet stitches in the round below. Leave sc st of the opposite colour behind each dc2d unworked. In the Chart this is represented by an X. Yo, insert hook into flo of st 2 rounds down, yo, pull up a loop, [yo, draw through 2 loops on hook] twice. Leave st behind dc2d unworked.

Invisible join: At the end of each round, remove hook from loop, insert hook under both loops of beg st from back to front, place loop back on hook and pull through st. Using new colour, yo and 1 ch. Tighten all loops, drop previous colour to wrong side. You can find a tutorial here.

Foundation cord: Reserve a tail that is approx 2.5 times the length of cord you want to create (see pattern for measurements), make a slip knot with the working end of the  yarn and insert your hook. *Wrap the tail yarn over the hook from front to back (two loops on your hook), yo with the working yarn and pull through both loops on your hook to create 1 st; Rep from * as many times as indicated to create your foundation cord.

Foundation cord in the round: When working in the round, once you have completed all the required sts, and ensuring that your work is not twisted, bring the first st in the cord around to the front of your work and work an invisible join following the instructions below.

Fpdc: Yo, insert your hook from front to back to front around the post of the next stitch, yo, pull up a loop, yo, pull thru 2 loops on your hook, yo, pull thru remaining 2 loops on your hook.

Bpdc: Yo, insert your hook from back to front to back around the post of the next stitch, yo, pull up a loop, yo, pull thru 2 loops on your hook, yo, pull thru remaining two loops on your hook.

Free Written Pattern – US terms

First, create your foundation stitches by using ONE of the following two options:

Option 1: Using MC, reserve a 1.5m / 60in tail and work 108 sts of foundation cord, invisible join being careful not to twist your work.  108 sts – move onto Rnd 2

Option 2: Using MC, 108 ch, sl st to join being careful not to twist your work, 1 ch (does not count as a st), working in the back loop of the starting chain, 108 sc, invisible join. 108 sts – move onto Rnd 2.

Rnd 2: Using CC1; 1 ch, 108 sc, invisible join. 108 sts

Rnd 3: Using MC; 1 ch, *1 dc2d, 1 sc; rep from * around, invisible join. 108 sts

Rnd 4: Using CC1; 1 ch, 108 sc, invisible join. 108 sts

Rnd 5: Using MC; 1 ch, *1 dc2d, 3 sc, (1 dc2d, 1 sc) 6 times, 2 sc; rep from * around, invisible join. 108 sts

Rnd 6: Using CC1; 1 ch, *(3 sc, 1 dc2d) 4 times, 2 sc; rep from * around, invisible join. 108 sts

Rnd 7: Using MC; 1 ch, *(1 dc2d, 1 sc) twice, (2 sc, 1 dc2d) 3 times, 3 sc, 1 dc2d, 1 sc; rep from * around, iivisible join. 108 sts

Rnd 8: Using CC1; 1 ch, *1 sc, 1 dc2d, 3 sc, 1 dc2d, 2 sc, 1 dc2d, 1 sc, 1 dc2d, 2 sc, 1 dc2d, 3 sc, 1 dc2d; rep from * around, invisible join. 108 sts

Rnd 9: Using MC; 1 ch, *(1 dc2d, 3 sc, 1 dc2d, 2 sc) twice, 1 dc2d, 3 sc; rep from * around, invisible join. 108 sts

Rnd 10: Using CC1; 1 ch, *3 sc, (1 dc2d, 2 sc) 5 times; rep from * around, invisible join. 108 sts

Rnd 11: Using MC; 1 ch, *(2 sc, 1 dc2d) 3 times, (1 sc, 1 dc2d, 1 sc) 3 times; rep from * around, invisible join. 108 sts

Rnd 12: Using CC1; 1 ch, *1 sc, 1 dc2d, 15 sc, 1 dc2d; rep from * around, invisible join. 108 sts

Rnd 13: Using MC; 1 ch, *(2 sc, 1 dc2d) 3 times, (1 sc, 1 dc2d, 1 sc) 3 times; rep from * around, invisible join. 108 sts

Rnd 14: Using CC1; 1 ch, *3 sc, (1 dc2d, 2 sc) 5 times; rep from * around, invisible join. 108 sts

Rnd 15: Using MC; 1 ch, *(1 dc2d, 3 sc, 1 dc2d, 2 sc) twice, 1 dc2d, 3 sc; rep from * around, invisible join. 108 sts

Rnd 16: Using CC1; 1 ch, *(1 sc, 1 dc2d, 2 sc) twice, (1 dc2d, 1 sc) twice, 1 sc, 1 dc2d, 3 sc, 1 dc2d; rep from * around, invisible join. 108 sts

Rnd 17: Using MC; 1 ch, *(1 dc2d, 1 sc) twice, (2 sc, 1 dc2d) 3 times, 3 sc, 1 dc2d, 1 sc; rep from * around, invisible join. 108 sts

Rnd 18: Using CC1; 1 ch, *(3 sc, 1 dc2d) 4 times, 2 sc; rep from * around, invisible join. 108 sts

Rnd 19: Using MC; 1 ch, *1 dc2d, 3 sc, (1 dc2d, 1sc) 6 times, 2 sc; rep from * around, invisible join. 108 sts

Rnd 20: Using CC1; 1 ch, *108 sc, invisible join. 108 sts

Break yarn, weave in ends and continue to top cuff instructions.

Top Cuff

Change to CC2 and working through both loops.

Rnd 1: 1 ch (does not count as a st here or throughout), 108 sc, invisible join. 108 sts

Rnd 2: 2 ch, (1 Fpdc, 1 Bpdc) around, invisible join. 108 sts

Rnds 3-5: Repeat Rnd 2. 108 sts

Finish and weave in ends.

Bottom Cuff

Now flip the neck warmer over so the starting chain is facing up and the colourwork motifs are upside down. 

You’ll now be working into the loops on bottom of the foundation cord or through the remaining loops of the foundation chain.

Rnd 1: Join using CC2, working through both loops, 1 ch (does not count as a st here or throughout), 108 sc, invisible join. 108 sts

Rnd 2: 2 ch, (1 Fpdc, 1 Bpdc) around, invisible join. 108 sts

Rnds 3 – 5: Repeat Rnd 2. 108 sts

Finish, weave in ends and block to shape.

Congrats! You’re finished!

I hope you enjoyed this pattern and thank you for being here

Thanks for visiting my blog!

Whether through sharing my content or making a purchase, your support, enables me to keep creating and sharing free content for everyone’s enjoyment.

Your support is truly valued and greatly appreciated!

Follow Gorgeous Crafts on your favourite Social Media sites. Follow me on Facebook, Pinterest, TikTok and Instagram!

Register for my newsletter here to stay up-to-date on new patterns, tutorials and everything going on at Gorgeous Crafts!

Copyright of Gorgeous Crafts 2025. This pattern is for unlimited personal use. Do not reproduce or sell the pattern as your own. The pattern may not be copied in any way (print or digitally), in part or in full.  You may sell items that are made from this pattern but please credit gorgeouscrafts.co.uk and add a link back to this post where possible. Shop owners, if you wish to make a kit with yarn using this pattern, please request permission and copyright details from the designer before offering any kits for sale.