Gretel Ear Warmer Crochet Pattern

Keep warm this winter with the Gretel Ear Warmer crochet pattern. Named after the Hansel and Gretel fairy tale due to its Fair Isle-style pattern that looks like delicately iced gingerbread. Wear it as a statement piece to complement your autumn and winter wardrobes, or simply keep your ears snug when you’re braving the cold outdoors.

Crochet ear warmers are quick and easy projects to make. This pattern is made using mosaic crochet in the round with no increases or decreases. In fact this makes an excellent beginner project!

Choosing a mosaic crochet pattern, like this one, means your fabric will be slightly thicker – bonus! Plus it’s uses a small amount of yarn meaning it’s a great scrap yarn project.

In fact, there is a matching FREE Gretel Cowl pattern which you can find here. You can create BOTH items using only TWO skeins of yarn!

Sometimes crochet patterns that include colourwork can seem pretty daunting! But an ear warmer crochet pattern is a small, easy project. This means you can try the technique without the time and yarn commitment that comes with a larger project like a blanket.

This mosaic crochet ear warmer looks like it’s very involved, but in reality, it’s quite simple! The ear warmer crochet pattern only requires two basic crochet stitches. It’s an uncomplicated design that will bring you quick results!

Disclosure: Some of the links below are affiliate links (*), meaning, at no additional cost to you, I will earn a small commission if you click through and make a purchase. As an Amazon Associate and an Awin Affiliate I earn from qualifying purchases.

Mosaic Crochet Patterns

Mosaic crochet is truly very simple. You can create beautiful pieces with different colours BUT you never have to change colours mid-round!

While I often label my mosaic crochet patterns as ‘intermediate’, they are also perfectly suitable for confident beginners. If you can work basic crochet stitches, then you can do mosaic crochet – it really is that easy.

How to Alter the Size of Your Ear Warmer

To ensure a good fit you’ll need to get your measuring tape out!

The ear warmer crochet pattern below is suitable for a head circumference of 54.5 cm (21.5 inches). If you have a bigger or a smaller head then you can alter the number of stitches in the starting chain with multiples of 6. Here’s how to do it:

• Use the measuring tape to measure the circumference of your head.
• Take 2 cm (0.75 inches) off of that measurement.
• Working in multiples of 6, work Round 1 of the pattern until the chain is the same length as the shorter measurement. It’s better to go slightly smaller here than slightly larger.

As ear warmers can stretch over time, using the shorter measurement gives you the negative ease you need to ensure a snug fit.

This method will work for most head sizes. However, the height of the ear warmer might make this pattern unsuitable for babies or very small children.

Looking for more free crochet patterns?

Here are some other patterns you might like:

1. Country Garden Cowl
2. Easy Daffodil Mug Cosy
3. Micro Crochet Pumpkin Earrings
4. Mini Granny Christmas Stocking

Gretel Ear Warmer Crochet Pattern

Skill Level

Suitable for intermediate crocheters and confident beginners.

Supplies

Click the links below to see exactly which materials I used!

4 mm (G) and 3.5 mm (E) hook or size required to achieve the gauge listed below
Scissors
Stitch Markers (I also have a selection from Cats Whiskers Cro Store and Joy to the Wool Co.)
Tapestry Needle
Stylecraft Special DK (100% Acrylic  Yarn – DK / #3 / Light / Light Worsted; 295m / 323 yards per 100g):

• 1 skein of Copper (MC) ( 10m / 8.5yards);

Scheepjes Colour Crafter (100% Acrylic Yarn – DK / #3 / Light / Light Worsted; 300m / 328 yards per 100g

• 1 skein of Weert (CC1) ( 5.5m / 5yards)

I recommend any two contrasting solid colours. But you can swap one for a multi-coloured, variegated yarn.

Gauge

10 sts and 14 rounds = 5 cm/ 2 in worked in the round across the mosaic crochet pattern.

Unblocked Sizing

Medium 9.5 cm/3.75 in high x 24 cm/9 in wide when laid flat.

Pattern Notes

This pattern has a repeat of 6 stitches. To increase or decrease the circumference of the ear warmer, add or remove a number of foundation stitches by multiples of 6.

How to Read The Pattern

In the instructions, when you have a number followed by a stitch, eg 14 dc, this means you have to work 1dc into each of the next 14 sts.

Instructions in brackets (….) or square brackets […] are worked as many times as indicated.

Mosaic Crochet Pattern Notes

• The pattern can be worked by either following the chart or the written instructions.
• Overlay mosaic crochet is created by working with two contrasting colours in alternating rounds. All rounds are worked on the right side of the project.
• Unless otherwise indicated, ALL double crochet (US = single crochet) stitches are worked into the back loops of the stitch while treble crochet (US = double crochet) stitches are worked into the front loops of stitches from 2 rounds below. The treble crochet stitches are covering up the double crochet stitches from the previous round.
• Start each round with a 1 ch (does not count as a st).
• End each round with an invisible join. To avoid weaving in all those ends, do not cut the yarn when you finish a round. Simply change colours when working the invisible join, use the new colour to work the 1 ch, then continue with the next round.
• Leave the previous colour at the join and pick it back up as needed.

How to read the chart

• Read the chart from the bottom up.
• Numbers running along the bottom of the chart are the stitch count.  Numbers running up the sides are the round count.
• Each round is worked in a single colour. The first and last squares of each round will indicate which colour to use in that round.
• Change the colour of yarn with every round.
• Each square represents one stitch. A blank square of any colour indicates a double crochet (US = single crochet) worked into the back loop; a square of any colour with an ‘X’ indicates a treble crochet (US = double crochet) worked into the front loop of the stitch two rounds down.
• You should follow the symbols in the squares.  The colours in the middle of the chart are to be used as a guide only and should represent how your piece will look once that round has been completed. 
• Do not change colours mid-round (unless the pattern calls for it)

Chart

Jump to US Terms

Abbreviations – UK Terms

*: Repeat instructions following a single * (asterisk) as directed
**: Repeat instructions between **’s as many times as noted after
[ ], { }: Repeat instruction between [ ]’s or { }’s as many times as noted after
CC: Contrasting Colour
ch: Chain
dc: Double Crochet
FLO: Front Loop Only
MC: Main Colour
rep: Repeat
rnd: Round
sk: Skip
sl st: Slip Stitch
sp: Space
st(s): Stitch(es)
tog: Together
tr: Treble Crochet
yo: Yarn Over Hook

Special Stitches – UK Terms

tr2d: A Treble crochet stitch worked into the front loops of the stitch of the same colour 2 rounds down. The tr2d stitch is always worked in front of the double crochet stitches in the round below. Leave dc st of the opposite colour behind each tr2d unworked. In the Chart this is represented by an X. Yo, insert hook into flo of st 2 rounds down, yo, pull up a loop, [yo, draw through 2 loops on hook] twice. Leave st behind tr2d unworked.

Invisible join: At the end of each round, remove hook from loop, insert hook under both loops of beg st from back to front, place loop back on hook and pull through st. Using new colour, yo and 1 ch. Tighten all loops, drop previous colour to wrong side. You can find a tutorial here.

Foundation cord: Reserve a tail that is approx 2.5 times the length of cord you want to create (see pattern for measurements), make a slip knot with the working end of the  yarn and insert your hook. *Wrap the tail yarn over the hook from front to back (two loops on your hook), yo with the working yarn and pull through both loops on your hook to create 1 st; Rep from * as many times as indicated to create your foundation cord.

Foundation cord in the round: When working in the round, once you have completed all the required sts,
and ensuring that your work is not twisted, bring the first st in the cord around to the front of your work and work an invisible join following the instructions below.

Reverse Crab Stitch: The following is an easy way to create the reverse crab stitch using just double crochet – insert hook into the next st, yo and pull through a loop (2 loops on your hook), without removing your hook from your work, rotate your hook in an anti-clockwise motion which will twist the the two loops together, yo, pull through both loops on your hook.

You can find a video tutorial on my YouTube channel here.

Free Written Pattern – UK terms

Create your foundation stitches and complete round 1 by using ONE of the following two options:

Option 1: Using MC, reserve a 1.5m / 60in tail and work 96 sts of foundation cord, invisible join being careful not to twist your work.  96 sts – move onto Rnd 2

Option 2: Using MC, 96 ch, sl st to join being careful not to twist your work, 1 ch (does not count as a st), working in the back loop of the starting chain, 96 dc, invisible join. 96 sts – move onto Rnd 2

Rnd 2: Using CC1 and the smaller hook; 1 ch (does not count as a st here and throughout), 96 dc, invisible join. 96 sts

Rnd 3: Using MC; 1 ch, *2 tr2d, 1 dc; rep from * around, invisible join. 96 sts

Rnd 4: Using CC1; 1 ch, *2 dc, 1 tr2d; rep from * around,  invisible join. 96 sts

Rnd 5: Using MC; 1 ch, *(1 dc, 1 tr2d) twice, 2 dc; rep from * around, invisible join. 96 sts

Rnd 6: Using CC1; 1 ch, *1 tr2d, 3 dc, 1 tr2d, 1 dc; rep from * around, invisible join. 96 sts

Rnd 7: Using MC; 1 ch, *2 dc, 1tr2d, 3 dc; rep from * around,  invisible join. 96 sts

Rnd 8: Using CC1; 1 ch, *2 tr2d, 1 dc; rep from * around, invisible join. 96 sts

Rnd 9: Using MC; 1 ch, *5 dc, 1 tr2d; rep from * around, invisible join. 96 sts

Rnd 10: Using CC1; 1 ch, *1  tr2d  2 dc; rep from * around, invisible join. 96 sts

Rnd 11: Using MC; 1 ch, *1 tr2d, 3 sc, 1 tr2d, 1 sc; rep from * around, invisible join. 96 sts

Rnd 12: Using CC1; 1 ch, *2 dc, 1 tr2d; rep from * around, invisible join. 96 sts

Rnd 13: Using MC; 1 ch, *1 tr2d, 3 dc, 1 tr2d, 1 dc; rep from * around, invisible join. 96 sts

Rnd 14: Using CC1; 1 ch, *1 dc, 3 tr2d, 2 dc; rep from * around, invisible join. 96 sts

Rnd 15: Using MC; 1 ch, *5 dc, 1 tr2d; rep from * around, invisible join. 96 sts

Rnd 16: Using CC1; 1 ch, *2 tr2d, 1 dc; rep from * around, invisible join. 96 sts

Rnd 17: Using MC; 1 ch, *2 dc, 1 tr2d, 3 sc; rep from * around, invisible join. 96 sts

Rnd 18: Using CC1; 1 ch, *1  tr2d, 3 dc, 1 tr2d, 1dc; rep from * around, invisible join. 96 sts

Rnd 19: Using MC; 1 ch, *(1dc, 2 tr2d) twice, 2 sc; rep from * around, invisible join. 96 sts

Rnd 20: Using CC1; 1 ch, *2 tr2d, 1 dc; rep from * around, invisible join. 96 sts

Rnd 21: Using MC; 1 ch, *2 tr2d, 1 dc; rep from * around, invisible join. 96 sts

Do not break yarn, continue to top cuff instructions.  

Borders (optional)

Top Border

Using the smaller hook, continue working in MC and working through both loops.

Rnd 1: 1 ch (does not count as a st), reverse crab stitch around, to join remove your hook from the loop, insert hook underneath the first crab stitch from back to front, put the loop back onto your hook and pull through. Finish and weave in ends. 96 sts

Bottom Border

Flip the ear warmer over so the starting chain is facing up and the colourwork motifs are upside down. 

You’ll now be working into the loops on bottom of the foundation cord or through the remaining loops of the foundation chain.

Rnd 1: Using the smaller hook, join using MC, working through both loops, rep Rnd 1 from the top border. 96 sts

Finish and weave in all ends.

ERRATA

Rnd 6: Using CC1; 1 ch, *1 tr2d, 3 dc, 1 tr2d, 1 dc; rep from * around, invisible join. 96 sts

Copyright of Gorgeous Crafts 2024. This pattern is for unlimited personal use. Do not reproduce or sell the pattern as your own. The pattern may not be copied in any way (print or digitally), in part or in full.  You may sell items that are made from this pattern but please credit gorgeouscrafts.co.uk and add a link back to this post where possible. Shop owners, if you wish to make a kit with yarn using this pattern, please request permission and copyright details from the designer before offering any kits for sale.

Thanks for visiting my blog!

Your support, whether through sharing my content or making a purchase, enables me to keep creating and sharing free content for everyone’s enjoyment.

Your support is truly valued and greatly appreciated!

Follow Gorgeous Crafts on your favourite Social Media sites. Follow me on Facebook, Pinterest, TikTok and Instagram!

Register for my newsletter to stay up-to-date on new patterns, tutorials and everything going on at Gorgeous Crafts!

Abbreviations – US terms

*: Repeat instructions following a single * (asterisk) as directed
**: Repeat instructions between **’s as many times as noted after
[ ], { }: Repeat instruction between [ ]’s or { }’s as many times as noted after
CC: Contrasting Colour
ch: Chain
dc: Double Crochet
FLO: Front Loop Only
MC: Main Colour
rep: Repeat
rnd: Round
sc: Single Crochet
sk: Skip
ss: Slip Stitch
sp: Space
st(s): Stitch(es)
tog: Together
yo: Yarn Over Hook

Special Stitches – US terms

dc2d: A double crochet stitch worked into the front loops of the stitch of the same colour 2 rounds down. The dc2d stitch is always worked in front of the single crochet stitches in the round below. Leave sc st of the opposite colour behind each dc2d unworked. In the Chart this is represented by an X. Yo, insert hook into flo of st 2 rounds down, yo, pull up a loop, [yo, draw through 2 loops on hook] twice. Leave st behind dc2d unworked.

Invisible join: At the end of each round, remove hook from loop, insert hook under both loops of beg st from back to front, place loop back on hook and pull through st. Using new colour, yo and 1 ch. Tighten all loops, drop previous colour to wrong side. You can find a tutorial here.

Foundation cord: Reserve a tail that is approx 2.5 times the length of cord you want to create (see pattern for measurements), make a slip knot with the working end of the  yarn and insert your hook. *Wrap the tail yarn over the hook from front to back (two loops on your hook), yo with the working yarn and pull through both loops on your hook to create 1 st; Rep from * as many times as indicated to create your foundation cord.

Foundation cord in the round: When working in the round, once you have completed all the required sts, and ensuring that your work is not twisted, bring the first st in the cord around to the front of your work and work an invisible join following the instructions below.

Reverse Crab Stitch: The following is an easy way to create the reverse crab stitch using just double crochet – insert hook into the next st, yo and pull through a loop (2 loops on your hook), without removing your hook from your work, rotate your hook in an anti-clockwise motion which will twist the the two loops together, yo, pull through both loops on your hook.

You can find a video tutorial on my YouTube channel here.

Free Written Pattern – US terms

Firstly, create your foundation stitches by using ONE of the following two options:

Option 1: Using MC, reserve a 1.5m / 60in tail and work 96 sts of foundation cord, invisible join being careful not to twist your work.  96 sts – move onto Rnd 2

Option 2: Using MC, 96 ch, sl st to join being careful not to twist your work, 1 ch (does not count as a st), working in the back loop of the starting chain, 96 sc, invisible join. 96 sts – move onto Rnd 2

the starting chain, 96 sc, invisible join. 96 sts – move onto Rnd 2

Rnd 2: Using CC1 and the smaller hook; 1 ch (does not count as a st here and throughout), 96 sc, invisible join. 96 sts

Rnd 3: Using MC; 1 ch, *2 dc2d, 1 sc; rep from * around, invisible join. 96 sts

Rnd 4: Using CC1; 1 ch, *2 sc, 1 dc2d; rep from * around, invisible join. 96 sts

Rnd 5: Using MC; 1 ch, *(1 sc, 1 dc2d) twice, 2 sc; rep from * around, invisible join. 96 sts

Rnd 6: Using CC1; 1 ch, *1 dc2d, 3 sc, 1 dc2d, 1 sc; rep from * around, invisible join. 96 sts

Rnd 7: Using MC; 1 ch, *2 sc, 1 dc2d, 3 sc; rep from * around, invisible join. 96 sts

Rnd 8: Using CC1; 1 ch, *2 dc2d, 1 sc; rep from * around, invisible join. 96 sts

Rnd 9: Using MC; 1 ch, *5 sc, 1 dc2d; rep from * around, invisible join. 96 sts

Rnd 10: Using CC1; 1 ch, *1 sc, 3 dc2d, 2 sc; rep from * around, invisible join. 96 sts

Rnd 11: Using MC; 1 ch, *1 dc2d, 3 sc, 1 dc2d, 1sc; rep from * around, invisible join. 96 sts

Rnd 12: Using CC1; 1 ch, *2 sc, 1 dc2d; rep from * around, invisible join. 96 sts

Rnd 13: Using MC; 1 ch, *1 dc2d, 3 sc, 1 dc2d, 1 sc; rep from * around, invisible join. 96 sts

Rnd 14: Using CC1; 1 ch, *1 sc, 3 dc2d, 2 sc; rep from * around, invisible join. 96 sts

Rnd 15: Using MC; 1 ch, *5 sc, 1 dc2d; rep from * around, invisible join. 96 sts

Rnd 16: Using CC1; 1 ch, *2 dc2d, 1 sc; rep from * around, invisible join. 96 sts

Rnd 17: Using MC; 1 ch, *2 sc, 1 dc2d, 3 sc; rep from * around, invisible join. 96 sts

Rnd 18: Using CC1; 1 ch, *1  dc2d, 3 sc, 1 dc2d, 1 sc; rep from * around, invisible join. 96 sts

Rnd 19: Using MC; 1 ch, *(1sc, 1 dc2d) twice, 2 sc; rep from * around, invisible join. 96 sts

Rnd 20: Using CC1; 1 ch, *2 sc, 1 dc2d; rep from * around, invisible join. 96 sts

Rnd 21: Using MC; 1 ch, *2 dc2d, 1 sc; rep from * around, invisible join. 96 sts

Do not break yarn, continue to top cuff instructions.  

Borders (optional)

Top Border

Using the smaller hook, continue working in MC and working through both loops.

Rnd 1: 1 ch (does not count as a st), reverse crab stitch around, to  join remove your hook from the loop, insert hook underneath the first crab stitch from back to front, put the loop back onto your hook and pull through. Finish and weave in ends. 96 sts

Bottom Border

Flip the ear warmer over so the starting chain is facing up and the colourwork motifs are upside down. 

You’ll now be working into the loops on bottom of the foundation cord or through the remaining loops of the foundation chain.

Rnd 1: Using the smaller hook, join using MC, working through both loops, rep Rnd 1 from the top border. 96 sts

Finish and weave in all ends.

Copyright of Gorgeous Crafts 2024. This pattern is for unlimited personal use. Do not reproduce or sell the pattern as your own. The pattern may not be copied in any way (print or digitally), in part or in full.  You may sell items that are made from this pattern but please credit gorgeouscrafts.co.uk and add a link back to this post where possible. Shop owners, if you wish to make a kit with yarn using this pattern, please request permission and copyright details from the designer before offering any kits for sale.

Thanks for visiting my blog!

Your support, whether through sharing my content or making a purchase, enables me to keep creating and sharing free content for everyone’s enjoyment.

Your support is truly valued and greatly appreciated!

Follow Gorgeous Crafts on your favourite Social Media sites. Follow me on Facebook, Pinterest, TikTok and Instagram!

You can also register for my newsletter to stay up-to-date on new patterns, tutorials and everything going on at Gorgeous Crafts!