Free Book Sleeve Crochet Pattern

If you’re looking for a book sleeve crochet pattern that makes a thoughtful handmade Christmas gift then you’re in the right place! This colourful crochet book cosy is perfect for book lovers who want to keep their favourite reads protected in style.

With its pretty snowflake squares and the cosy granny stitch texture, it’s a lovely combination of practicality and eye-catching design. And a wonderful way to turn a few balls of yarn into something special for someone you love.

What makes this crochet book sleeve extra special is its clever construction. The delicate snowflake motifs are worked using the centre-out mosaic crochet technique, growing from the middle outwards much like a traditional granny square.

The geometric snowflakes create a beautiful wintery pattern. At the same time, the granny stitch base makes the sleeve quicker to crochet without compromising on its lovely finish. It’s a fun way to combine two crochet techniques to create a useful accessory that’s full of personality!

Whether you’re making a handmade Christmas present for a friend who always has a book on the go, a thoughtful gift for a family member who loves to read, or simply a pretty book cover to protect your own latest page-turner, this crochet book sleeve is also a lovely project to add to your to-make list. Choose colours to suit their personality, pick a favourite yarn combination, and create a unique handmade gift that’s sure to bring a smile.

Ready to make something special for the bookworm in your life? Grab your yarn and hook, and let’s get started with this book sleeve crochet pattern!

I’m so excited to be taking part in the Handmade Holiday Blog Hop – after all, if you know me, you’ll know how much I love Christmas crafting, decorating and celebrating! In fact, last year I designed the Christmas Pocket pattern, a cute handmade Christmas decoration that’s perfect for hanging on your tree. It also features my centre-out mosaic squares with a snowflake design.

These squares are so versatile and I love finding new ways to use them! So this time I wanted to give them a completely different look and purpose. Therefore, I’ve transformed them into a cosy book sleeve, a gift that’s perfect for the avid readers on your Christmas list.

Looking for more free crochet patterns?

Here are some other patterns you might like:

1. Mosaic crochet Snowflake Motif
2. Easy Aran Cowl
3. Wavy Christmas Bauble
4. Chain of Stars Poncho

About This Book Sleeve Crochet Pattern

Firstly, the Snowfall Book Sleeve crochet pattern uses the Centre-Out Overlay Mosaic crochet technique to create the beautiful squares with a snowflake design. But don’t let that put you off! It’s as simple as making a granny square! Overlay mosaic crochet uses two stitches:

• Back loop only double crochet (US terms = back loop only single crochet)
• Front loop only treble crochet (US terms = front loop only double crochet).

There’s also a small variation for the corner stitch, but it’s still just a front loop only treble crochet (US terms = front loop only double crochet) – nothing complicated!

Secondly, the sleeve is created in three main parts:

The base – this uses the granny stitch and whips up very quickly;
The squares – these are surprisingly quick to make and work just like granny squares;
The top – after joining the squares and base together the top is made with simple stitches and chains to create the ties.

Skill Level

This is an intermediate crochet pattern, but it is suitable for confident beginners. Below you’ll find full written instructions as well as a chart and photo tutorials.

Disclosure: Some of the links below are affiliate links (*), meaning, at no additional cost to you, I will earn a small commission if you click through and make a purchase. As an Amazon Associate and an Awin Affiliate I earn from qualifying purchases.

Handmade Holiday Blog Hop & Bundle

The Snowfall Book Sleeve crochet pattern is a featured pattern in the Handmade Holiday Blog Hop hosted by Itchin’ For Some Stitchin. The ad-free PDF book sleeve pattern is free on the blog on 1st November 2026.

Scroll down to the end to find the Download button to get your copy.

To check out some of the other amazing FREE patterns in the event, please click on the
image button below for further details.

Missed a day?

You can also grab all the blog hop patterns in the Handmade Holiday Pattern bundle by clicking on the image below!

When you purchase the bundle you get access to ALL 30 amazing patterns, perfect for Christmas gifting an decorating!

Hurry! This bundle is currently available at $15.99 but only for a limited time! Click on the image above to snag your copy NOW!

Get A Bonus Pattern

If you purchase a copy of the Christmas Ornaments pattern ebook using my special link, you’ll also receive a copy of my Snowfall Wine Cosy* – it’s free to people purchasing the Handmade Holiday Crochet Pattern eBook through my special link here.

Book Sleeve Crochet Pattern

Supplies

Click the links below to see exactly which materials I used!

3 mm / D and 4mm / G-6 hook
Scissors
Stitch Markers (I also have a selection from Cats Whiskers Cro Store and Joy to the Wool Co.)
Tapestry Needle
Scheepjes Soft Fun (60% Cotton, 40% Acrylic Yarn – DK / #3 / Light Worsted; 140m / 153 yards per 50g)

• 2 skeins in 2492 Bordeaux (MC) 222 m/243 yds
• 1 skein in 2412 Snow (CC) 42 m/46 yds

I recommend any two contrasting solid colours. But you can swap one for a multi-coloured, variegated yarn.

Gauge

Mosaic crochet square = 9 x 9 cm (3.5 x 3.5 in) when worked across the pattern; Base = 9 sts x 5.5 rows = 5cm. (Gauge is not essential).

Blocked Sizing

19 cm/7.5 in high x 30 cm / 12 in wide when laid flat.

Pattern Notes

Finished squares can be joined together using your favourite method just like a classic granny square.

How to Read The Pattern

When in the instructions you have a number followed by a stitch, eg 14 dc, this means you have to work 1dc into each of the next 14 sts.

Instructions in brackets (….) or square brackets […] are worked as many times as indicated.

Centre-out Mosaic Crochet Pattern Notes

• You can either follow the chart or written instructions.
• Overlay mosaic crochet is created by working with two contrasting colours in alternating rounds. All rounds are worked on the right side of the project.
• Unless otherwise indicated, ALL double crochet (US = single crochet) stitches are worked into the back loops of the stitch while treble crochet (US = double crochet) stitches are worked into the front loops of stitches from 2 rounds below. The treble crochet stitches are covering up the double crochet stitches from the previous round.
• Start each round with a 1 ch (does not count as a st).
• End each round with an invisible join. To avoid weaving in all those ends, do not cut the yarn when you finish a round. Simply change colours when working the invisible join, use the new colour to work the 1 ch, then continue with the next round.
• From round 3 carry the previous colour for one st, then leave to pick it back up as needed.

How to read the chart

• Read the chart from the bottom up, each row of squares represents one round.
• Each round is read from right to left for right-handed crocheters.
• Numbers running up the side of the chart are the round count.
• Each round is worked in a single colour. The coloured square beside each round, indicating the colour you will use for the entire round.
• Change the colour of yarn with every round.
• Each square represents one stitch. A blank square of any colour indicates a double crochet (US = single crochet) worked into the back loop; a square of any colour with an ‘X’ indicates a treble crochet (US = double crochet) worked into the front loop of the stitch two rounds down.
• You should follow the symbols in the squares.  The colours in the middle of the chart are to be used as a guide only and should represent how your piece will look once that round has been completed. 
• Do not change colours mid-round (unless the pattern calls for it)

Jump to US Terms

Right-handed Chart

Chart Key – UK Terms

Left-handed Chart

Abbreviations – UK Terms

*: Repeat instructions following a single * (asterisk) as directed
**: Repeat instructions between **’s as many times as noted after
[ ], { }: Repeat instruction between [ ]’s or { }’s as many times as noted after
BLO: Back Loop Only
CC: Contrasting Colour
ch: Chain
dc: Double Crochet
dcC: Double Crochet Corner
FLO: Front Loop Only
Fptr: front post treble crochet
MC: Main Colour
MdC: Modified Corner Stitch
MR: Magic Ring
rep: Repeat
rnd: Round
RS: Right Side
sk: Skip
sl st: Slip Stitch
st(s): Stitch(es)
tog: Together
tr: Treble Crochet
yo: Yarn Over Hook

Special Stitches – UK Terms

C – Corner stitches: In rnd 2 work (1 dc, 2 ch, 1 dc) into the BLO of a stitch to create a corner (see photo tutorial below). From rnd 3 onwards work 1 dc into the BLO of the first corner chain, 2 ch, 1 dc into the BLO of the second corner chain (see photo tutorial below).

Foundation cord: Reserve a tail that is approx 2.5 times the length of cord you want to create, make a slip knot with the working end of the yarn and insert your hook. *Wrap the tail yarn over the hook from front to back (two loops on your hook), yo with the working yarn and pull through both loops on your hook to create 1 st; Rep from * as many times as indicated to create your foundation cord.

MdC – Modified Corner stitches: This is a tr2d worked between the usual ‘2 ch’ of each corner – see the photo tutorial below. This creates a diagonal bar of colour in each corner and is worked by making a front loop treble crochet into one of the corner chains 2 rows below. It doesn’t matter which corner ch from the previous 2 rows you use as long as you are consistent in following rounds when the diagonal bars are required. This is referred to as a ‘modified corner’. The tr2d of a modified corner will always be missed in the following round, only the following round’s modified corner stitches should be worked into this tr2d.

tr2d: A Treble crochet stitch worked into the front loops of the stitch of the same colour 2 rounds down. The tr2d stitch is always worked in front of the double crochet stitches in the round below. Leave dc st of the opposite colour behind each tr2d unworked. In the Chart this is represented by an X. Yo, insert hook into flo of st 2 rounds down, yo, pull up a loop, [yo, draw through 2 loops on hook] twice. Leave st behind tr2d unworked.

Invisible join: At the end of each round, remove hook from loop, insert hook under both loops of beg st from back to front, place loop back on hook and pull through st. Using new colour, yo and 1 ch. Tighten all loops, drop previous colour to wrong side. You can find a tutorial here.

Carrying the yarn: From rnd 3 onwards after completing your invisible join from the previous rnd, you will work the first stitch into the BLO of the first corner chain. In order to hide the join on the back of your work you will carry the yarn from the previous round for one stitch, please also see the photo tutorial below.

Stacked double crochet: stacked double crochet replaces the first double crochet at the start of a round when making the base section. Dc into the same stitch, then working into the side loop of the dc, yo and pull up a loop (2 loops on your hook), yo and pull through 2 loops to complete the stacked double crochet. Please Note: Do NOT used stacked double crochets when creating the center-out mosaic crochet squares.

Centre-out Mosaic Crochet Corner Stitch – Round 2

1) Insert hook into the back loop of the first st. 2) Lay the working yarn of the previous colour over the top of the back loop and hold in place. 3) Yo, and pull through a loop. 4) Yo and pull through both loops on your hook to complete the dc. 5) Chain 2. 6) Insert your hook back under the back loop of the same st and work your second double crochet. That’s your corner complete. (1 dc, 2 ch, 1 dc) into the back loop of a st.

Centre-out Mosaic Crochet Corner Stitch – Round 3

1) In the image above the first st is marked with a st marker. 2) Skip the first st and insert your hook into the BLO of the first ch from the corner sts of the round below. Lay the working yarn of the previous colour over the top of your work and hold in place. 3) Work a dc. 4) Chain 2.

5) Insert your hook into the BLO of the second ch from the corner sts of the round below. 6) Work a second dc to complete the corner sts. 7) Complete the rest of the round. 8) When you have one st left, you will work the final st into the first st from the previous round.

Centre-out Mosaic Crochet Modified Corner Stitch

1) Start your corner by working 1 BLOdc into the first corner ch from the row below, 1 ch. 2) Work a tr2d into the FLO of st 2 rows down, into which you had created the first dcC – marked with a st marker in the images above. 3) Chain one. 4) Now work a dc into the BLO of the second corner ch from the row below to complete your MdC. Image above shows the completed modified corner stitch (MdC). 5) On the next round, complete the dcC as normal, while skipping over the extra tr2d of the modified corner. 6) You may need to move the tr2d from the modified corner aside to find the required sts 2 rows down.

Free Written Pattern – UK terms

The Squares

From rnd 3, carry the previous colour for one st.

Rnd 0: Using CC and the smaller hook; create a MR, 1 ch (does not count as a st, here or throughout), 8 dc into the MR, invisible join. 8 sts

Rnd 1: Using MC; [1 dcC, 1 dc] 4 times, invisible join. 12 sts

Rnd 2: Using CC and starting in the first 1-ch of the dcC of the previous round; [1 MdC, 1 dc, 1 tr2d, 1 dc] 4 times, invisible join. 16 sts

Rnd 3: Using MC and starting in the first 1-ch of the MdC of the previous round; [1 dcC, 2 tr2d, 1 dc, 1 tr2d, 1 dc] 4 times, invisible join. 28 sts

Rnd 4: Using CC and starting in the first 1-ch of the dcC of the previous round; [1 MdC, 3 dc, 1 tr2d, 3 dc] 4 times, invisible join. 36 sts

Rnd 5: Using MC and starting in the first 1-ch of the MdC of the previous round; [1 dcC, 1 dc, 1 tr2d, 5 dc, 1 tr2d, 1 dc] 4 times, invisible join. 44 sts

Rnd 6: Using CC and starting in the firs 1-ch of the previous round; [1 MdC, 1 dc, (1 tr2d, 3 dc) twice, 1 tr2d, 1 dc] 4 times, invisible join. 52 sts

Rnd 7: Using MC and starting in the first 1-ch of the MdC of the previous round; [1 dcC, 1 tr2d, [1 tr2d, 1 dc) 5 times, 2 tr2d] 4 times, invisible join. 60 sts

For the next round work under both loops of each st around.

Rnd 8: Using MC 1 ch, 1 dc into the same st, *(1 dc, 2 ch, 1 dc) into the 2-ch space, 15 dc; rep from * twice more, (1 dc, 2 ch, 1 dc) into the 2-ch space, 14 dc, invisible join. 68 sts

Finish and weave in all ends.

Make 5 more squares and block ready for joining.

Base

Use the larger hook to create your foundation stitches, then change to the smaller hook to create the rest of the bases.

Use stacked double crochets to start each row for a neater finish.

Rnd 1: Using MC and the larger hook, reserve a 135cm / 53in tail and work 114 sts of foundation cord, being careful not to twist your work, invisible join to the first st. 114 sts – do not turn your work; move onto Round 2.

Change to the smaller hook.

Rnd 2: 1 ch, (work a stacked dc and 2 tr into the same st), *2 sk, 3 tr into the next st; Rep from * around, invisible join to the top of the stached dc, 1 ch, turn. 114 sts

Rnd 3: (Work a stacked dc and 2 tr into the first st), *2 sk, 3 tr into the next st; Rep from * around, invisible join to the top of the stached dc, 1 ch, turn. 114 sts

Rnds 4 to 9: Or until base measures 12.5cm / 3 in high, rep rnd 3. 114 sts

Attach a stitch marker into the first st of the final rnd (you’ll need the stitch marker later on). Once all rounds are complete, finish and weave in ends.

Block ready for joining.

Flat Join – Squares

Now join all six squares into a circle using the double crochet flat join. A full tutorial for the join can be found on my website: https://gorgeouscrafts.co.uk/double-crochet-flat-join/

Hold the first two squares together with RS facing you’re going to join the squares along one edge.

A) Using MC and the larger hook, create a slip knot and add it to your hook, your working yarn will always sit at the back of your work. Insert your hook into the 2-ch corner space of one square and work 1 dc, pull up a longer loop.

B) Remove your hook, insert your hook, from front to back, into the corresponding 2-ch corner space of the other square, place the working loop back over your hook, and pull through. Adjust your yarn leaving enough space to work your next st.

C) Insert your hook into the next st of the first square and work 1 dc, pull up a longer loop.

D) Remove your hook, insert your hook, from front to back, into the corresponding st of the other square, place the working loop back over your hook, and pull through. Adjust your yarn leaving enough space to work your next st.

E) Repeat steps C and D until you reach the next 2-ch space finishing on step D.

F) Insert your hook into the 2-ch corner space and work 1 dc, pull up a longer loop.

G) Remove your hook, insert your hook, from front to back, into the corresponding 2-ch corner space of the other square, place the working loop back over your hook, and pull through.

H) Finish and weave in both ends.

The remainder of the squares should now be joined.

Repeat steps A to H until all squares are joined to form a circle.

Flat Join – Base to Squares

Now join the base to the squares using the same method.

A) Using MC and the larger hook, create a slip knot and add it to your hook, your working yarn will always sit at the back of your work. Insert your hook into the stitch with a stitch marker on the base and work 1 dc, pull up a longer loop.

B) You’ll now work into a 2-ch corner space of one of the squares. With RS facing you select the bottom, right-hand corner of a square. Remove your hook, insert your hook, from front to back, into the 2-ch corner space of the square, place the working loop back over your hook, and pull through. Adjust your yarn leaving enough space to work your next st.

C) Insert your hook into the next st of the base and work 1 dc, pull up a longer loop.

D) Remove your hook, insert your hook, from front to back, into the next st of the square, place the working loop back over your hook, and pull through. Adjust your yarn leaving enough space to work your next st.

E) Repeat steps C and D working double crochets into each stitch of the base and pulling the loops through a corresponding stitch of each square around. Continue this same method for each 2-ch corner space but skip each of the joins, the joins do not count as sts.

F) When you reach the final stitch of the base, work 1 dc and pull up a long loop. Remove hook from your work and insert your hook into from front to back of the final stitch of the square, put the loop back on your hook and pull the loop through. Make sure you still have a long loop for the next step.

G) Remove your hook and this time insert your hook from back to front unto the very first stitch of the round, put the loop back on your hook and pull it through.

This acts as an invisible join.

Finish and weave in all ends.

Top

Now create the top and closure of your book sleeve.

Rnd 1: Using MC and the larger hook, create a slip knot and add it to your hook. You’ll now work into a 2-ch corner space of one of the squares. With RS facing you select the top, left-hand corner of a square. This is because you’ll be skipping over the joins between the squares, starting from this position means your final invisible join will not fall across a join. (Work 1 dc into the 2-ch corner space, skip the join, 1 dc into the next 2-ch corner space; 17 dc) 6 times, invisible join. 114 sts

Rnd 2: 1 ch (does not count as a st), 1 dc into the same st, 1 dc into each st around, invisible join. 114 sts

Rnd 3: 1 ch (does not count as a st), 1 dc into the same st, (21 dc, *40 ch, ss into the back bump of the first chain, 1 dc into the next st, 17 dc; rep from *) twice, invisible join. 114 sts

Finish and weave in all ends.

Closing The Base

Finally you now need to close the base of your book sleeve. To do this you can thread a needle with the red yarn and close the base at the foundation cord using the mattress stitch. Alternatively, join using the same dc flat join used for joining the squares and the base.

A) Start at one end. Using MC and the larger hook, create a slip knot and add it to your hook, your working yarn will always sit at the back of your work. Insert your hook into a stitch at one end and work 1 dc, pull up a longer loop.

B) Remove your hook, insert your hook, from front to back, into the corresponding st on the opposite side of the base, place the working loop back over your hook, and pull through. Adjust your yarn leaving enough space to work your next st.

C) Insert your hook into the next st of the base and work 1 dc, pull up a longer loop.

D) Remove your hook, insert your hook, from front to back, into the corresponding st of the opposite side, place the working loop back over your hook, and pull through. Adjust your yarn leaving enough space to work your next st.

E) Repeat steps C and D working double crochets into each stitch along one side of the base and pulling the loops through a corresponding stitches of the opposite side. When you have worked all stitches pull the working loop through to the WS of your work to finish and weave in all ends.

And you’re done! I’d love to see your Snowfall Book Sleeve creations! Tag me on Instagram @gorgeouscrafts or share them in my Facebook group – let’s make this Christmas extra special!

Handmade Holiday

The Snowfall Book Sleeve crochet pattern is a featured pattern in the Handmade Holiday Blog Hop. The PDF is free to download on 1st November.

Head back to the Crochet To Donate blog hop main page by clicking on the button below to view more patterns available during this event.

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Copyright of Gorgeous Crafts 2026. This pattern is for unlimited personal use. Do not reproduce or sell the pattern as your own. The pattern may not be copied in any way (print or digitally), in part or in full.  You may sell items that are made from this pattern but please credit gorgeouscrafts.co.uk and add a link back to this post where possible. Shop owners, if you wish to make a kit with yarn using this pattern, please request permission and copyright details from the designer before offering any kits for sale.

Right-handed Chart

Chart Key – US Terms

Left-handed Chart

Abbreviations – US terms

*: Repeat instructions following a single * (asterisk) as directed
**: Repeat instructions between **’s as many times as noted after
[ ], { }: Repeat instruction between [ ]’s or { }’s as many times as noted after
BLO: Back Loop Only
CC: Contrasting Colour
ch: Chain
dc: Double Crochet
FLO: Front Loop Only
MC: Main Colour
MdC: Modified Corner Stitch
MR: Magic Ring
rep: Repeat
rnd: Round
RS: Right Side
sc: Single Crochet
scC: Single Crochet Corner
sk: Skip
ss: Slip Stitch
sp: Space
st(s): Stitch(es)
tog: Together
WS: Wrong Side
yo: Yarn Over Hook

Special Stitches – US terms

C – Corner stitches: In rnd 2 work (1 sc, 2 ch, 1 sc) into the BLO of a stitch to create a corner. From rnd 3 onwards work 1 sc into the BLO of the first corner chain, 2 ch, 1 sc into the BLO of the second corner chain. Please see the photo tutorial below.

MdC – Modified Corner stitches: This is a dc2d worked between the usual ‘2 ch’ of each corner – also see the photo tutorial below. This creates a diagonal bar of colour in each corner and is worked by making a front loop double crochet into one of the corner chains 2 rows below. It doesn’t matter which corner ch from the previous 2 rows you use as long as you are consistent in following rounds when the diagonal bars are required. This is referred to as a ‘modified corner’. The dc2d of a modified corner will always be missed in the following round, only the following round’s modified corner stitches should be worked into this dc2d.

dc2d: A double crochet stitch worked into the front loops of the stitch of the same colour 2 rounds down. The dc2d stitch is always worked in front of the single crochet stitches in the round below. Leave sc st of the opposite colour behind each dc2d unworked. In the Chart this is represented by an X. Yo, insert hook into flo of st 2 rounds down, yo, pull up a loop, [yo, draw through 2 loops on hook] twice. Leave st behind dc2d unworked.

Invisible join: At the end of each round, remove hook from loop, insert hook under both loops of beg st from back to front, place loop back on hook and pull through st. Using new colour, yo and 1 ch. Tighten all loops, drop previous colour to wrong side. You can find a tutorial here.

Carrying the yarn: From rnd 3 onwards after completing your invisible join from the previous rnd, you will work the first stitch into the BLO of the first corner chain. In order to hide the join on the back of your work you will carry the yarn from the previous round for one stitch, please also see the photo tutorial below.

Foundation cord: Reserve a tail that is approx 2.5 times the length of cord you want to create, make a slip knot with the working end of the yarn and insert your hook. *Wrap the tail yarn over the hook from front to back (two loops on your hook), yo with the working yarn and pull through both loops on your hook to create 1 st; Rep from * as many times as indicated to create your foundation cord.

Stacked single crochet: stacked single crochet replaces the first double crochet at the start of a round when making the base section. Sc into the same stitch, then working into the side loop of the sc, yo and pull up a loop (2 loops on your hook), yo and pull through 2 loops to complete the stacked single crochet. Please Note: Do NOT used stacked single crochets when creating the center-out mosaic crochet squares.

Centre-out Mosaic Crochet Corner Stitch – Round 2

1) Insert hook into the back loop of the first st. 2) Lay the working yarn of the previous colour over the top of the back loop and hold in place. 3) Yo, and pull through a loop. 4 Yo and pull through both loops on your hook to complete the sc. 5) Chain 2. 6) Insert your hook back under the back loop of the same st and work your second single crochet. That’s your corner complete. (1 sc, 2 ch, 1 sc) into the back loop of a st.

Centre-out Mosaic Crochet Corner Stitch – Round 3

1) In the image above the first st is marked with a st marker. 2) Skip the first st and insert your hook into the BLO of the first ch from the corner sts of the round below. Lay the working yarn of the previous colour over the top of your work and hold in place. 3) Work a sc. 4) Chain 2.

5) Insert your hook into the BLO of the second ch from the corner sts of the round below. 6) Work a second sc to complete the corner sts. 7) Complete the rest of the round. 8) When you have one st left, you will work the final st into the first st from the previous round.

Centre-out Mosaic Crochet Modified Corner Stitch

1) Start your corner by working 1 BLOsc into the first corner ch from the row below, 1 ch. 2) Work a dc2d into the FLO of st 2 rows down, into which you had created the first scC – marked with a st marker in the images above. 3) Chain one. 4) Now work a sc into the BLO of the second corner ch from the row below to complete your MdC. Image above shows the completed modified corner stitch (MdC). 5) On the next round, complete the scC as normal, while skipping over the extra dc2d of the modified corner. 6) You may need to move the dc2d from the modified corner aside to find the required sts 2 rows down.

Free Written Pattern – US terms

From rnd 3, carry the previous colour for one st.

Rnd 0: Using CC and the smaller hook; create a MR, 1 ch (does not count as a st, here or throughout), 8 sc into the MR, invisible join. 8 sts

Rnd 1: Using MC; [1 scC, 1 sc] 4 times, invisible join. 12 sts

Rnd 2: Using CC and starting in the first 1-ch of the scC of the previous round; [1 MdC, 1 sc, 1 dc2d, 1sc] 4 times, invisible join. 16 sts

Rnd 3: Using MC and starting in the first 1-ch of the MdC of the previous round; [1 scC, 2 dc2d, 1 sc, 1 dc2d, 1 sc] 4 times, invisible join. 28 sts

Rnd 4: Using CC and starting in the first 1-ch of the scC of the previous round; [1 MdC, 3 sc, 1 dc2d, 3 sc] 4 times, invisible join. 36 sts

Rnd 5: Using MC and starting in the first 1-ch of the MdC of the previous round; [1 scC, 1 sc, 1 dc2d, 5 sc, 1 dc2d, 1 sc] 4 times, invisible join. 44 sts

Rnd 6: Using CC and starting in the firs 1-ch of the previous round; [1 MdC, 1 sc, (1 dc2d, 3 sc) twice, 1 dc2d, 1 sc] 4 times, invisible join. 52 sts

Rnd 7: Using MC and starting in the first 1-ch of the MdC of the previous round; [1 scC, 1 dc2d, [1 dc2d, 1 sc) 5 times, 2 dc2d] 4 times, invisible join. 60 sts

For the next round work under both loops of each st around.

Rnd 8: Using MC 1 ch, 1 sc into the same st, *(1 sc, 2 ch, 1 sc) into the 2-ch space, 15 sc; rep from * twice more, (1 sc, 2 ch, 1 sc) into the 2-ch space, 14 sc, invisible join. 68 sts

Finish and weave in all ends.

Make 5 more squares and block ready for joining.

Base

Use the larger hook to create your foundation stitches, then change to the smaller hook to create the rest of the bases.

Use stacked single crochets to start each row for a neater finish.

Rnd 1: Using MC and the larger hook, reserve a 135cm / 53in tail and work 114 sts of foundation cord, being careful not to twist your work, invisible join to the first st. 114 sts – do not turn your work; move onto Round 2.

Change to the smaller hook.

Rnd 2: 1 ch, (work a stacked sc and 2 dc into the same st), *2 sk, 3 dc into the next st; Rep from * around, invisible join to the top of the stached sc, 1 ch, turn. 114 sts

Rnd 3: (Work a stacked sc and 2 dc into the first st), *2 sk, 3 dc into the next st; Rep from * around, invisible join to the top of the stached sc, 1 ch, turn. 114 sts

Rnds 4 to 9: Or until base measures 12.5cm / 3 in high, rep rnd 3. 114 sts

Attach a stitch marker into the first st of the final rnd (you’ll need the stitch marker later on). Once all rounds are complete, finish and weave in ends.

Block ready for joining.

Flat Join – Squares

Now join all six squares into a circle using the single crochet flat join. A full tutorial for the join can be found on my website: https://gorgeouscrafts.co.uk/double-crochet-flat-join/

Hold the first two squares together with RS facing you’re going to join the squares along one edge.

A) Using MC and the larger hook, create a slip knot and add it to your hook, your working yarn will always sit at the back of your work. Insert your hook into the 2-ch corner space of one square and work 1 sc, pull up a longer loop.

B) Remove your hook, insert your hook, from front to back, into the corresponding 2-ch corner space of the other square, place the working loop back over your hook, and pull through. Adjust your yarn leaving enough space to work your next st.

C) Insert your hook into the next st of the first square and work 1 sc, pull up a longer loop.

D) Remove your hook, insert your hook, from front to back, into the corresponding st of the other square, place the working loop back over your hook, and pull through. Adjust your yarn leaving enough space to work your next st.

E) Repeat steps C and D until you reach the next 2-ch space finishing on step D.

F) Insert your hook into the 2-ch corner space and work 1 sc, pull up a longer loop.

G) Remove your hook, insert your hook, from front to back, into the corresponding 2-ch corner space of the other square, place the working loop back over your hook, and pull through.

H) Finish and weave in both ends.

The squares should now be joined.

Repeat steps A to H until all squares are joined to form a circle.

Flat Join – Base to Squares

Now join the base to the squares using the same method.

A) Using MC and the larger hook, create a slip knot and add it to your hook, your working yarn will always sit at the back of your work. Insert your hook into the stitch with a stitch marker on the base and work 1 sc, pull up a longer loop.

B) You’ll now work into a 2-ch corner space of one of the squares. With RS facing you select the bottom, right-hand corner of a square. Remove your hook, insert your hook, from front to back, into the 2-ch corner space of the square, place the working loop back over your hook, and pull through. Adjust your yarn leaving enough space to work your next st.

C) Insert your hook into the next st of the base and work 1 sc, pull up a longer loop.

D) Remove your hook, insert your hook, from front to back, into the next st of the square, place the working loop back over your hook, and pull through. Adjust your yarn leaving enough space to work your next st.

E) Repeat steps C and D working single crochets into each stitch of the base and pulling the loops through a corresponding stitch of each square around. Continue this same method for each 2-ch corner space but skip each of the joins, the joins do not count as sts.

F) When you reach the final stitch of the base, work 1 sc and pull up a long loop. Remove hook from your work and insert your hook into from front to back of the final stitch of the square, put the loop back on your hook and pull the loop through. Make sure you still have a long loop for the next step.

G) Remove your hook and this time insert your hook from back to front unto the very first stitch of the round, put the loop back on your hook and pull it through.
This acts as an invisible join.
Finish and weave in all ends.

Top

Now create the top and closure of your book sleeve.

Rnd 1: Using MC and the larger hook, create a slip knot and add it to your hook. You’ll now work into a 2-ch corner space of one of the squares. With RS facing you select the top, left-hand corner of a square. This is because you’ll be skipping over the joins between the squares, starting from this position means your final invisible join will not fall across a join. (Work 1 sc into the 2-ch corner space, skip the join, 1 sc into the next 2-ch corner space; 17 sc) 6 times, invisible join. 114 sts

Rnd 2: 1 ch (does not count as a st), 1 sc into the same st, 1 sc into each st around, invisible join. 114 sts

Rnd 3: 1 ch (does not count as a st), 1 sc into the same st, (21 sc, *40 ch, ss into the back bump of the first chain, 1 sc into the next st, 17 sc; rep from *) twice, invisible join. 114 sts

Finish and weave in all ends.

Closing The Base

Finally you now need to close the base of your book sleeve. To do this you can thread a needle with the red yarn and close the base at the foundation cord using the mattress stitch. Alternatively, join using the same sc flat join used for joining the squares and the base.

A) Start at one end. Using MC and the larger hook, create a slip knot and add it to your hook, your working yarn will always sit at the back of your work. Insert your hook into a stitch at one end and work 1 sc, pull up a longer loop.

B) Remove your hook, insert your hook, from front to back, into the corresponding st on the opposite side of the base, place the working loop back over your hook, and pull through. Adjust your yarn leaving enough space to work your next st.

C) Insert your hook into the next st of the base and work 1 sc, pull up a longer loop.

D) Remove your hook, insert your hook, from front to back, into the corresponding st of the opposite side, place the working loop back over your hook, and pull through. Adjust your yarn leaving enough space to work your next st.

E) Repeat steps C and D working double crochets into each stitch along one side of the base and pulling the loops through a corresponding stitches of the opposite side. When you have worked all stitches pull the working loop through to the WS of your work to finish and weave in all ends.

And you’re done! I’d love to see your Snowfall Book Sleeve creations! Tag me on Instagram @gorgeouscrafts or share them in my Facebook group – let’s make this Christmas extra special!

Handmade Holiday

The Snowfall Book Sleeve crochet pattern is a featured pattern in the Handmade Holiday Blog Hop. The PDF is free to download on 1st November.

Head back to the Crochet To Donate blog hop main page by clicking on the button below to view more patterns available during this event.

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Copyright of Gorgeous Crafts 2026. This pattern is for unlimited personal use. Do not reproduce or sell the pattern as your own. The pattern may not be copied in any way (print or digitally), in part or in full.  You may sell items that are made from this pattern but please credit gorgeouscrafts.co.uk and add a link back to this post where possible. Shop owners, if you wish to make a kit with yarn using this pattern, please request permission and copyright details from the designer before offering any kits for sale.