Mystery Mosaic Crochet Pumpkin Pattern

Ready to crochet the cutest pumpkin of the season?

If you’ve been looking for a quick, satisfying project that looks far more complicated than it really is, this mosaic crochet pumpkin is it. It works up into a plump, textured little pumpkin that makes a perfect piece of home decor, and you can make it in an evening or two.

The best part? Mosaic crochet looks impressive, but it’s one of the friendliest techniques you can learn. It uses only basic stitches, so if you’re a confident beginner, you already have everything you need to get started. No fancy stitches, no complicated yarn changes, just simple stitches that build into a beautiful pattern one row of colour at a time.

And because you choose the colours, this pumpkin works all year round, or at least all Autumn long. Go classic orange and cream for fall, try green and black for Halloween, or pick warm golds and browns for a Thanksgiving table centrepiece. Make one or make a patch!

Mystery Mosaic Crochet Pumpkin Pattern

Join me for this mystery mosaic crochet pumpkin crochet along – why is it a mystery? Because at the time of writing this blog post I hadn’t started designing the pumpkin. At all!

All I had was an idea and some yarn, I’ll be designing the pumpkin as we go which is why some of the yarn measurements are estimated. I’ll update everything once the pumpkin is finished.

Part 1

In this section I show you the first part of the mosaic crochet design and we’ll be working through making the pumpkin together.

You can watch the full crochet along video over on my YouTube channel by clicking on the image below.

Grab your hook and your favourite autumn yarn, and let’s get stitching!

Difficulty

Although I often label my mosaic crochet patterns as ‘intermediate’, they are also perfectly suitable for beginners. If you can work basic crochet stitches, then you can do overlay mosaic crochet – it really is that easy. You’ll soon have a cozy cowl that is easily customisable with your favourite colours.

Need pattern support? Head on over to my Facebook group Gorgeous Crafts Crocheters and drop your question there. Love this pattern? Get notified of all new pattern releases by becoming one of my VIPs (my newsletter), sign up here. 

Looking for more free crochet patterns?

Here are some other patterns you might like:

1. Country Garden Cowl
2. Chain of Stars Poncho
3. Spooky Eyes (part of the Halloween Mosaic Crochet Blanket)
4. Gretel Cowl

Disclosure: Some of the links below are affiliate links, meaning, at no additional cost to you, I will earn a small commission if you click through and make a purchase. As an Amazon Associate and an Awin Affiliate I earn from qualifying purchases.

Yarn Substitutions

I’ve designed this pattern using DK yarn, as gauge is not important for this pattern, any DK yarn can be used.

You can use other yarn weights but you will need to use a hook size that is recommended for that yarn weight. Using a different weight of yarn may increase the amount of yarn required and you will end up with a different sized pumpkin.

Materials and Notions

Click the links below to see exactly which materials I used!

3.5 mm hook
Scissors
Stitch Markers (I also have a selection from Cats Whiskers Cro Store and Joy to the Wool Co.)
Tapestry Needle
Hayfield Bonus DK (100% Acrylic Yarn – DK / #3 / Light Worsted; 196m / 214 yards per 100g)

• 1 skein of Neon Green (A)
• 1 skein of Black (B)

Toy Stuffing (or old socks or yarn scraps, whatever you have to hand)
Stick or Cinnamon sticks (for the stem)
Glue (hot glue or any kind of glue to attached the stem to the pumpkin)

Gauge

?? sts and ?? rows = 10cm / 4in worked across the mosaic crochet pattern in the round. I haven’t finished the pattern yet so I don’t know what the gauge will be but gauge is not important for this project.

Unblocked Sizing

??cm / ??in high x ??cm / ??in around when stuffed. I haven’t finished the pattern yet so I don’t know what the dimensions will be.

Pattern Notes

To increase the circumference of the pumkin, increase the number of foundation stitches by multiples of 7.

How to Read The Pattern

When in the instructions you have a number followed by a stitch, eg 14 dc, this means you have to work 1dc into each of the next 14 sts.

Instructions in brackets (….) or square brackets […] are worked as many times as indicated.

Mosaic Crochet Pattern Notes – US (UK)

• You can either follow the chart or written instructions.
• Overlay mosaic crochet is created by working with two contrasting colours in alternating rounds. All rounds are worked on the right side of the project.
• Unless otherwise indicated, ALL single crochet (UK = double crochet) stitches are worked into the back loops of the stitch while double crochet (UK = treble crochet) stitches are worked into the front loops of stitches from 2 rounds below. The double crochet stitches are covering up the single crochet stitches from the previous round.
• Start each round with a 1 chain (does not count as a stitch).
• End each round with an invisible join. To avoid weaving in all those ends, do not cut the yarn when you finish a round. Simply change colours when working the invisible join, use the new colour to work the 1 chain, then continue with the next round.
• Leave the previous colour at the join and pick it back up as needed.

How to read the chart

• Read the chart from the bottom up.
• Numbers running along the bottom of the chart are the stitch count.  Numbers running up the sides are the round count.
• Right-handed crocheters should read the chart from right to left, following the stitch numbers along the bottom. Left-handed crocheters should read the chart from left to right following the stitch numbers along the top.
• Each round is worked in a single colour. The first and last squares of each round will indicate which colour to use in that round.
• Change the colour of yarn with every round.
• Each square represents one stitch. A blank square of any colour indicates a single crochet (UK = double crochet) worked into the back loop; a square of any colour with an ‘X’ indicates a double crochet (UK = treble crochet) worked into the front loop of the stitch two rounds down.
• You should follow the symbols in the squares.  The colours in the middle of the chart are to be used as a guide only and should represent how your piece will look once that round has been completed. 
• Do not change colours mid-round (unless the pattern calls for it)

Chart

Jump to US Terms

Abbreviations – UK Terms

*: Repeat instructions following a single * (asterisk) as directed
**: Repeat instructions between **’s as many times as noted after
[ ], { }: Repeat instruction between [ ]’s or { }’s as many times as noted after
BLO: Back Loop Only
CC: Contrasting Colour
ch: Chain
dc: Double Crochet
FLO: Front Loop Only
MC: Main Colour
rep: Repeat
rnd: Round
sk: Skip
sl st: Slip Stitch
sp: Space
st(s): Stitch(es)
tog: Together
tr: Treble Crochet
yo: Yarn Over Hook

Special Stitches – UK Terms

tr2d: A Treble crochet stitch worked into the front loops of the stitch of the same colour 2 rounds down. The tr2d stitch is always worked in front of the double crochet stitches in the round below. Leave dc st of the opposite colour behind each tr2d unworked. In the Chart this is represented by an X. Yo, insert hook into flo of st 2 rounds down, yo, pull up a loop, [yo, draw through 2 loops on hook] twice. Leave st behind tr2d unworked.

Invisible join: At the end of each round, remove hook from loop, insert hook under both loops of beg st from back to front, place loop back on hook and pull through st. Using new colour, yo and 1 ch. Tighten all loops, drop previous colour to wrong side. You can find a tutorial here.

Foundation cord: Reserve a tail that is approx 3 times the length of cord you want to create (see pattern for measurements), make a slip knot with the working end of the  yarn and insert your hook. *Wrap the tail yarn over the hook from front to back (two loops on your hook), yo with the working yarn and pull through both loops on your hook to create 1 st; Rep from * as many times as indicated to create your foundation cord.

Foundation cord in the round: When working in the round, once you have completed all the required sts,
and ensuring that your work is not twisted, bring the first st in the cord around to the front of your work and work an invisible join following the instructions below.

Free Written Pattern – UK terms

First, create your foundation stitches and complete round 1 by using ONE of the following two options:

Option 1: This option completes rounds 0 and 1 together. Using colour A, reserve a 1m / 39.4in tail and work 77 sts of foundation cord, invisible join being careful not to twist your work.  77 sts – move onto Rnd 2

Option 2: Using colour A, 77 ch, sl st to join being careful not to twist your work, 1 ch (does not count as a st), 77 dc, invisible join. 77 sts – move onto Rnd 2

Rnd 2: Using colour B; 1 ch, 77 dc, invisible join. 77 sts

Rnd 3: Using colour A; 1 ch, *2 dc, 1 tr2d, 1 dc, 1 tr2d, 2 dc; rep from * around, invisible join. 77 sts

Rnd 4: Using colour B; 1 ch, 3 dc, 1 tr2d, 3 dc, invisible join. 77 sts

Rnd 5: Using colour A; 1 ch, *1 dc, 1 tr2d, 3 dc, 1 tr2d, 1 dc; rep from * around, invisible join. 77 sts

Rnd 6: Using colour B; 1 ch, *2 dc, 3 tr2d, 2 dc; rep from * around, invisible join. 77 sts

Rnd 7: Using colour A; 1 ch, *1 tr2d, 5 dc, 1 tr2d; rep from * around, invisible join. 77 sts

Woo hoo, you’ve completed the first part of the Mystery Mosaic Crochet Pumpkin Crochet Along!

Part 2

In this section I’ll walk you through the second half of the main mosaic crochet pattern as well as showing you how to close the bottom of your pumpkin.

You can watch the full tutorial on YouTube by clicking the image below.

Rnd 8: Using colour B; 1 ch, *(1 dc, 2 tr2d) twice, 1 dc; rep from * around, invisible join. 77 sts

Rnd 9: Using colour A; 1 ch, *3 dc, 1 tr2d, 3 dc; rep from * around, invisible join. 77 sts

Rnd 10: Using colour B; 1 ch, *(1 dc, 2 tr2d) twice, 1 dc; rep from * around, invisible join. 77 sts

Rnd 11: Using colour A; 1 ch, *1 tr2d, 5 dc, 1 tr2d; rep from * around, invisible join. 77 sts

Rnd 12: Using colour B; 1 ch, *2 dc, 3 tr2d, 2 dc; rep from * around, invisible join. 77 sts

Rnd 13: Using colour A; 1 ch, *1 dc, 1 tr2d, 3 dc, 1 tr2d, 1 dc; rep from * around, invisible join. 77 sts

Rnd 14: Using colour B; 1 ch, *3 dc, 1 tr2d, 3 dc; rep from * around, invisible join. 77 sts

Rnd 15: Using colour A; 1 ch, *2 dc, 1 tr2d, 1 dc, 1 tr2d, 2 dc; rep from * around, invisible join. 77 sts

To help you see how tall you need to make your pumpkin, cinch the bottom of your work so far.

Turn your work inside out and using a 30cm/12in piece of thread the same colour as the first row of your work, thread a yarn needle and weave the thread under the foundation stitches to create a drawstring. I inserted the needle under a stitch, skipped two and the passed it back through the other way under the next stitch. See the image below where I’ve used pink yarn so you can see the stitches.

Once you’ve woven it all around, pull it tight and tie some knots. You can re-thread the needle and pass it back and forth across the hole to pull it shut.

Repeat rounds 2 to 15 as many times as needed to make your pumpkin a reasonable size.

Rnds 16 to 29: Repeat rounds 2 to 15. 77 sts

Part 3

In this section you’ll learn how to stuff and finish off your pumpkin for display. You can watch the video tutorial by clicking on the image below.

Now that you have your pumpkin shell, finish off and tie off the ends of your yarn. You don’t need to weave them in if you prefer not to as the ends will be inside of your pumpkin.

Take a 30cm / 12in section of yarn, thread your yarn needle and weave through the top row of your pumpkin. I inserted under a stitch, skipped 2 and inserted the needle in the opposite direction and repeated around the top.

I’ve used pink yarn in the images below to make it easier for you to see what I’m doing but I suggest you used yarn that matches the colour of the last round.

Start to pull the threads so that the top of the pumpkin gathers. Stuff with your chosen stuffing, continue adding stuffing until you have a rounded but squashy ball. Don’t pack it too full of stuffing or you will stretch your stitches.

Once you are happy with how you’ve stuffed the pumpkin, pull the threads tightly to close the top of the pumpkin. Thread the yarn through your needle and weave back and forth across the top of the hole to ensure it is fully closed.

Alternatively, you can leave the hole open to make it easier to insert the stem. Using glue (I used hot glue which should only be used by adults) add some glue into the hole at the top of the pumpkin and onto the end of your stem.

Insert the stem into the hole and push it down until you’re happy with how far it sticks out.

Wait for the glue to dry fully before putting your pumpkin on display.

Congrats! You’re finished!

I hope you enjoyed the pattern. Don’t forget to tag me @gorgeouscrafts if you share on social media and thanks for being here!

Thanks for visiting my blog!

Whether through sharing my content or making a purchase, your support enables me to keep creating and sharing free content for everyone’s enjoyment.

Your support is truly valued and greatly appreciated!

Follow Gorgeous Crafts on your favourite Social Media sites. Follow me on Facebook, Pinterest, TikTok and Instagram!

Register for my newsletter here to stay up-to-date on new patterns, tutorials and everything going on at Gorgeous Crafts!

Copyright of Gorgeous Crafts 2026. This pattern is for unlimited personal use. Do not reproduce or sell the pattern, images or videos as your own. The pattern may not be copied in any way (print or digitally), in part or in full.  You may sell items that are made from this pattern but please credit gorgeouscrafts.co.uk and add a link back to this post where possible. Shop owners, if you wish to make a kit with yarn using this pattern, please request permission and copyright details from the designer before offering any kits for sale.

Abbreviations – US terms

*: Repeat instructions following a single * (asterisk) as directed
**: Repeat instructions between **’s as many times as noted after
[ ], { }: Repeat instruction between [ ]’s or { }’s as many times as noted after
BLO: Back Loop Only
CC: Contrasting Colour
ch: Chain
dc: Double Crochet
FLO: Front Loop Only
MC: Main Colour
rep: Repeat
rnd: Round
sc: Single Crochet
sk: Skip
ss: Slip Stitch
sp: Space
st(s): Stitch(es)
tog: Together
yo: Yarn Over Hook

Special Stitches – US terms

dc2d: A double crochet stitch worked into the front loops of the stitch of the same colour 2 rounds down. The dc2d stitch is always worked in front of the single crochet stitches in the round below. Leave sc st of the opposite colour behind each dc2d unworked. In the Chart this is represented by an X. Yo, insert hook into flo of st 2 rounds down, yo, pull up a loop, [yo, draw through 2 loops on hook] twice. Leave st behind dc2d unworked.

Invisible join: At the end of each round, remove hook from loop, insert hook under both loops of beg st from back to front, place loop back on hook and pull through st. Using new colour, yo and 1 ch. Tighten all loops, drop previous colour to wrong side. You can find a tutorial here.

Foundation cord: Reserve a tail that is approx 2.5 times the length of cord you want to create (see pattern for measurements), make a slip knot with the working end of the  yarn and insert your hook. *Wrap the tail yarn over the hook from front to back (two loops on your hook), yo with the working yarn and pull through both loops on your hook to create 1 st; Rep from * as many times as indicated to create your foundation cord.

Foundation cord in the round: When working in the round, once you have completed all the required sts, and ensuring that your work is not twisted, bring the first st in the cord around to the front of your work and work an invisible join following the instructions below.

Free Written Pattern – US terms

First, create your foundation stitches and complete round 1 by using ONE of the following two options:

Option 1: This option completes rounds 0 and 1 together. Using colour A, reserve a 1m / 39.4in tail and work 77 sts of foundation cord, invisible join being careful not to twist your work.  77 sts – move onto Rnd 2

Option 2: Using colour A, 77 ch, ss to join being careful not to twist your work, 1 ch (does not count as a st), 77 sc, invisible join. 77 sts – move onto Rnd 2

Rnd 2: Using colour B; 1 ch, 77 sc, invisible join. 77 sts

Rnd 3: Using colour A; 1 ch, *2 sc, 1 dc2d, 1 sc, 1 dc2d, 2 sc; rep from * around, invisible join. 77 sts

Rnd 4: Using colour B; 1 ch, 3 sc, 1 dc2d, 3 sc, invisible join. 77 sts

Rnd 5: Using colour A; 1 ch, *1 sc, 1 dc2d, 3 sc, 1 dc2d, 1 sc; rep from * around, invisible join. 77 sts

Rnd 6: Using colour B; 1 ch, *2 sc, 3 dc2d, 2 sc; rep from * around, invisible join. 77 sts

Rnd 7: Using colour A; 1 ch, *1 dc2d, 5 sc, 1 dc2d; rep from * around, invisible join. 77 sts

Woo hoo, you’ve completed the first part of the Mystery Mosaic Crochet Pumpkin Crochet Along!

Part 2

In this section I’ll walk you through the second half of the main mosaic crochet pattern as well as showing you how to close the bottom of your pumpkin.

You can watch the full tutorial on YouTube by clicking the image below.

Rnd 8: Using colour B; 1 ch, *(1 sc, 2 dc2d) twice, 1 sc; rep from * around, invisible join. 77 sts

Rnd 9: Using colour A; 1 ch, *3 sc, 1 dc2d, 3 sc; rep from * around, invisible join. 77 sts

Rnd 10: Using colour B; 1 ch, *(1 sc, 2 dc2d) twice, 1 sc; rep from * around, invisible join. 77 sts

Rnd 11: Using colour A; 1 ch, *1 dc2d, 5 sc, 1 dc2d; rep from * around, invisible join. 77 sts

Rnd 12: Using colour B; 1 ch, *2 sc, 3 dc2d, 2 sc; rep from * around, invisible join. 77 sts

Rnd 13: Using colour A; 1 ch, *1 sc, 1 dc2d, 3 sc, 1 dc2d, 1sc; rep from * around, invisible join. 77 sts

Rnd 14: Using colour B; 1 ch, *3 sc, 1 dc2d, 3 sc; rep from * around, invisible join. 77 sts

Rnd 15: Using colour A; 1 ch, *2 sc, 1 dc2d, 1 sc, 1 dc2d, 2 sc; rep from * around, invisible join. 77 sts

To help you see how tall you need to make your pumpkin, cinch the bottom of your work so far.

Turn your work inside out and using a 30cm/12in piece of thread the same colour as the first row of your work, thread a yarn needle and weave the thread under the foundation stitches to create a drawstring. I inserted the needle under a stitch, skipped two and the passed it back through the other way under the next stitch. See the image below where I’ve used pink yarn so you can see the stitches.

Once you’ve woven it all around, pull it tight and tie some knots. You can re-thread the needle and pass it back and forth across the hole to pull it shut.

Repeat rounds 2 to 15 as many times as needed to make your pumpkin a reasonable size.

Rnds 16 to 29: Repeat rounds 2 to 15. 77 sts

Part 3

In this section you’ll learn how to stuff and finish off your pumpkin for display. You can watch the video tutorial by clicking on the image below.

Now that you have your pumpkin shell, finish off and tie off the ends of your yarn. You don’t need to weave them in if you prefer not to as the ends will be inside of your pumpkin.

Take a 30cm / 12in section of yarn, thread your yarn needle and weave through the top row of your pumpkin. I inserted under a stitch, skipped 2 and inserted the needle in the opposite direction and repeated around the top.

I’ve used pink yarn in the images below to make it easier for you to see what I’m doing but I suggest you used yarn that matches the colour of the last round.

Start to pull the threads so that the top of the pumpkin gathers. Stuff with your chosen stuffing, continue adding stuffing until you have a rounded but squashy ball. Don’t pack it too full of stuffing or you will stretch your stitches.

Once you are happy with how you’ve stuffed the pumpkin, pull the threads tightly to close the top of the pumpkin. Thread the yarn through your needle and weave back and forth across the top of the hole to ensure it is fully closed.

Alternatively, you can leave the hole open to make it easier to insert the stem. Using glue (I used hot glue which should only be used by adults) add some glue into the hole at the top of the pumpkin and onto the end of your stem.

Insert the stem into the hole and push it down until you’re happy with how far it sticks out.

Wait for the glue to dry fully before putting your pumpkin on display.

Congrats! You’re finished!

I hope you enjoyed the pattern. Don’t forget to tag me @gorgeouscrafts if you share on social media and thanks for being here!

Thanks for visiting my blog!

Whether through sharing my content or making a purchase, your support, enables me to keep creating and sharing free content for everyone’s enjoyment.

Your support is truly valued and greatly appreciated!

Follow Gorgeous Crafts on your favourite Social Media sites. Follow me on Facebook, Pinterest, TikTok and Instagram!

Register for my newsletter here to stay up-to-date on new patterns, tutorials and everything going on at Gorgeous Crafts!

Copyright of Gorgeous Crafts 2026. This pattern is for unlimited personal use. Do not reproduce or sell the pattern, images or videos as your own. The pattern may not be copied in any way (print or digitally), in part or in full.  You may sell items that are made from this pattern but please credit gorgeouscrafts.co.uk and add a link back to this post where possible. Shop owners, if you wish to make a kit with yarn using this pattern, please request permission and copyright details from the designer before offering any kits for sale.